5.9 Engine Knock- '96 1500
#1
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Hey everyone, I'm back with another thread as I try to put this puzzle together piece-by-piece.
Just cam swapped my 96 1500 5.9 magnum. Comp cams 20-746-9 and Hughes 1110p spring kit.
I just set fuel sync today and it started without a hiccup, but now it's making a lot of noise under the hood. I'll have a friend come check it out tomorrow, but I just wanted input from people more experienced than I when it comes to this kind of stuff. Never done anything like this before so I am liable to make mistakes (i.e. forgetting to set fuel sync, and stripping threads), but I have done a lot of research and had a helping hand from a mechanic friend. Is this normal? Is it part of the break-in process? I've only idled it for around 5 minutes so maybe it will go away with time
Only thing is I am weary of anything that could go wrong (a lot) and will cut off the engine at the first sign of trouble, so I try not to run it long, if at all with a knock
Here is a URL to a youtube video I posted showing my issue:
The metal under the headers was banging up on them a bit, but that wasn't responsible. Mostly coming from cylinder 3/5 area
Just cam swapped my 96 1500 5.9 magnum. Comp cams 20-746-9 and Hughes 1110p spring kit.
I just set fuel sync today and it started without a hiccup, but now it's making a lot of noise under the hood. I'll have a friend come check it out tomorrow, but I just wanted input from people more experienced than I when it comes to this kind of stuff. Never done anything like this before so I am liable to make mistakes (i.e. forgetting to set fuel sync, and stripping threads), but I have done a lot of research and had a helping hand from a mechanic friend. Is this normal? Is it part of the break-in process? I've only idled it for around 5 minutes so maybe it will go away with time
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Here is a URL to a youtube video I posted showing my issue:
Last edited by cas2023; 03-12-2024 at 08:38 PM. Reason: clarification on noise location
#2
#3
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I'm getting good oil pressure across the board, and I made sure to put each cylinder at TDC when I installed my rockers to set the lifters, torqued rockers to 21ft lbs as required. Going to pull the valve cover and check for any irregularities. After I installed all the valve train I manually cranked the motor a few revolutions and checked to see that each valve was getting appropriate lift and each lifter/pushrod had contact with the rockers
Would higher oil weight help? I'm using 10W-30
Again, It's only occuring on one side, around cylinders 3 and 5
Would higher oil weight help? I'm using 10W-30
Again, It's only occuring on one side, around cylinders 3 and 5
Last edited by cas2023; 03-13-2024 at 01:30 PM.
#4
#5
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Fair enough, I haven't let it run long at all so it might need time, and it has only idled. And with the valve covers removed, all the rockers have oil in them. Cylinder 7 intake and Cylinder 1 intake have no side-to-side play in the rockers, while the rest do, possibly because those springs appear compressed? And I was able to push down the rod slightly on Cylinder 7 exhaust with the rocker following suit. Could just need to re-lash?
#6
#7
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Did you reuse the old hydraulic roller lifters or did you install new ones? If new, they should have been sitting in oil so that the lifter bodies could fill up with oil prior to installation. If not, it may take some time for the offending lifters to fill with oil so that the ticking sound goes away, however, refer to those cam break-in instructions...
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#8
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Did you reuse the old hydraulic roller lifters or did you install new ones? If new, they should have been sitting in oil so that the lifter bodies could fill up with oil prior to installation. If not, it may take some time for the offending lifters to fill with oil so that the ticking sound goes away, however, refer to those cam break-in instructions...
#9
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Sounds like you may still have an air pocket in the cooling system to cause it to overheat so quickly or you have a defective thermostat (not uncommon these days, even new). If you have a laser temperature gun (something like this - https://www.harborfreight.com/201-in...rms-64847.html), you can point it at the thermostat housing and radiator hoses to see what the coolant temperature is actually running.
Once you get the cooling issue straight, I'd let it run for awhile to see if things clear up.
Once you get the cooling issue straight, I'd let it run for awhile to see if things clear up.
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#10
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Sounds like you may still have an air pocket in the cooling system to cause it to overheat so quickly or you have a defective thermostat (not uncommon these days, even new). If you have a laser temperature gun (something like this - https://www.harborfreight.com/201-in...rms-64847.html), you can point it at the thermostat housing and radiator hoses to see what the coolant temperature is actually running.
Once you get the cooling issue straight, I'd let it run for awhile to see if things clear up.![Icon Twocents](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_twocents.gif)
Once you get the cooling issue straight, I'd let it run for awhile to see if things clear up.
![Icon Twocents](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_twocents.gif)
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