"Thanks for the picture! I've officially got that puller on order! "
Then my apologies, this is the correct one for the damper NOT the power steering pulley.
Not much help at all. I sent both to my son awhile back, grabbed the wrong one to attach. Standard 3 jaw pullers do not fit/grab well. Space too tight. I got lucky once, then struggled. This one works, period.
I pre-pressurized the engine for short block rebuild startup.
Lifter rattle may be the startup noise, then the block pressurizes.
If your trans gauge is temp, the aftermarket deep pans include a boss in the driver's side to thread the sensor into. I have a B&M extended pan, finned aluminum, drain plug/temp bosses, very nice. Could likewise drill stock pan or T the rear return line. If you drop the pan for filter/fluid service, drain plug luxury could be installed along with temp sender. Would also be the time to adjust line pressure if necessary.
The fuel pressure should hold for quite awhile after shutdown. If not, the regulator on top of the pump is bad or injectors are leaking. I've had both problems.
Parked V-10s? I picked a 4x4 up off the street complete, broken piston, one from CoPart, wrecked. Have the 4x4, scrapped the other, kept V-10 specific parts. Both dirt cheap.
Right now if I found an OBDII '96 4x4 I'd buy it for the drivetrain and with an eye to changing out my non-programmable PCM and unobtanium ignition control module setup.
Apologize again for dumb picture error.
Good luck, Mike.
Ha! Luckily you were fast enough on the correction that I could cancel before they shipped. Got the right one in the basket waiting for checkout as we speak. Need to order a few other things for other jobs too.
Looked up some aftermarket high capacity trans pans... Might have to wait to get paid for one of these jobs before I get one of those - they're a little pricy for what they are! Haha! But it'll be worth it I think..
I haven't sat and watched it after shutdown... Hmm.. I'll have to check that out!
Man - there's one that the guy says cranks but no spark I'm SO tempted to go grab.... Maybe even take some spare sensors I've got to see if I can make it run. Guy wants $650 and I bet would take less.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69_XS29L
Also, the 'ghost' of the cam sensor outline has worked fine for me to reinstall it. Scribed the outline to the timing cover anyhow. Would have to redo for new sensor.
That was my plan until I saw the bolt has been sheared off and I couldnt get the stud out... Unfortunately, I've got 3 more jobs on other people's vehicles to do before I can get it back in my shop...
Thinking I'll tear down the accessories so I can get in there to drill the stud out and see if an internal extractor will do the job...
LH bits. Also Lisle makes some splined extractors you pound in (after drilling a predetermined size) and then use sockets on the extractor (very similar to the old Torx trick). Whatever you do my advice is never use EZ-outs -- they always break and then you've just compounded your problem.
Yeah.
You are taking the timing cover off still, I'm sure. Why monkey with no access? Work on the remaining bit when you can try heating it with a torch.
If one of your sensor's signal is shorted to voltage, then new sensors would probably die upon installation. Sounds just as likely as saying all aftermarket sensors are junk/all these new sensors don't work, explains why many trucks never get fixed. Few ever dig into wiring.
Haven't used one in years, don't now have one, but an oscilloscope might be your friend. See what the sensors/circuits in question are really up to. They are getting cheap enough.
Codes are great, it's all anyone seems to understand, but they only tell you something happened at some point in the (near) past, not what is happening, and are not set by every adverse event.
Try using a left-hand drill bit on it..... Might get lucky.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith_L
LH bits. Also Lisle makes some splined extractors you pound in (after drilling a predetermined size) and then use sockets on the extractor (very similar to the old Torx trick). Whatever you do my advice is never use EZ-outs -- they always break and then you've just compounded your problem.
Luckily I've never had an ez-out break on me. Though the machinery I work on at work - where I usually use them - is usually covered in oil and I need it because something sheared from crashes. Haha!
I'll definitely pick up a set of LH bits.. I do have a couple, but I checked earlier and one is close but might be big enough that it'd drill out the threads too..
Unfortunately my puller didn't arrive Friday or yesterday like they claimed... Still got some work done - but not on the Dodge.. Did a fuel pump replacement on a crew cab S10 - and what a pain that was.... Fuel pump is under the cab... And a few oil changes.
While.i was in the shop I decided to take a look at the old Cam sensor I pulled out of the motor... It still has the rib on it. From what I understand from reading the install procedure I'm suspicious that this cam sensor wasn't installed at the proper gap...
Think I'll start pulling accessories and what not off the front of the motor this coming week and get that cam bolt drilled out so I can set the cam properly and then be able to get to the oil pump as soon as the puller arrives.
On a very unrelated note....
Been building a shopping cart up to build the K1500 motor a bit so maybe I'll keep looking into that this evening instead. 😁
I have a 2000 dodge Dakota with a 2.5 five speed transmission 2 x 4 it has 188703 miles on it. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor button spark plugs, spark plug wires in the coil I am getting a P0320 I am trying to find out how to check crank position sensor camp position sensor. I also got another PCM module did not come up with the same code, come up with the P0601 but it did not come up with the P0320 on the new computer, so I’m trying to figure out how to check the crank sensor position in camshaft position sensor Can you help.
I have a 2000 dodge Dakota 2.5 replaced distributor cap and rotor button, spark, plug, wires, spark, plugs, coil the truck has 188703 miles on it the code I’m getting P0320 think it was a computer on the truck? I found a used won online I put it on. I’m getting a PO601 code but on the new computer, I’m not getting the PO 320 I understand that the 320 means crank sensor cam sensor could the problem but with the used computer I put on it I’m not getting the PO 320. I’m just getting the PO601 just curious if anybody had any suggestions
I have a 2000 dodge Dakota 2.5 replaced distributor cap and rotor button, spark, plug, wires, spark, plugs, coil the truck has 188703 miles on it the code I知 getting P0320 think it was a computer on the truck? I found a used won online I put it on. I知 getting a PO601 code but on the new computer, I知 not getting the PO 320 I understand that the 320 means crank sensor cam sensor could the problem but with the used computer I put on it I知 not getting the PO 320. I知 just getting the PO601 just curious if anybody had any suggestions
Try posting in the 2nd Gen Dak section, with a NEW thread, don't hijack someone elses, that is also in the wrong section.
Got my puller, stubby LH bits, right angle drill and as of tonight - all my side/mechanic work done for the weekend! It'll be a TRUE 3 day weekend as well - so really hoping to get all of the work done on ol Diane. Still have yard/property work to do but really want to focus on the Dodge and get it done with and maybe after that get to working on the Chevy. Got all the parts for that baby as well. We'll see - might be a little ambitious. HAHA
Does anyone just to happen to know the thread pitch of the bolt holding the CAM sensor in place?
I've got a really nice/extensive tap and die set I might borrow from work for the weekend as a "just in case" measure...
I suppose theres also the challenge of finding the right bolt to go in it's place from the ol bolt buckets. Haha!
