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v8 manual swap

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  #51  
Old 07-28-2024 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgetruck2
clutch switch is a green plug in the area of where the clutch pedal goes through the fire wall, i believe its only a 2 prong
not using the actual pedal switch. I want to keep remote start working.
 
  #52  
Old 07-28-2024 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Looks like black wire with white trace.
just frame ground it?
 
  #53  
Old 07-28-2024 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SharpieDodge
just frame ground it?
I *think* that should work.
 
  #54  
Old 07-28-2024 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SharpieDodge
not using the actual pedal switch. I want to keep remote start working.
Sounds like a dangerous venture. I'm not sure why tractors from the 60s could have NSS built into the shift tower, but 21st century cars still do not have this technology. I spent a lot of R&D on my own shift tower NSS but could never come up with a fail proof system. Also getting these dodge drum/disc park brakes to last is impossible. I'd like to get a driveline brake.
 
  #55  
Old 07-29-2024 | 06:34 PM
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Got the floor cut, pedals installed and new slave cylinder assembly in today. Should have exhaust, cross members and the driveshaft in tomorrow. Hopefully Wednesday will be test drive time
 
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  #56  
Old 07-30-2024 | 03:16 PM
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How are we reinstalling crossmemeber? Damn thing seems like it expended about an inch and absolutely will not go back in.
 
  #57  
Old 07-30-2024 | 05:39 PM
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they are spring loaded against the frame installed. Can be quote interesting to reinstall

Easiest is a port-a-power between the frame rails, but I don't always like the idea of what's happening to everything else when doing that.

I've used a good ratchet strap in one set of the top hole and pulled it together enough to start the opposite side and then hammer it home.

I've also started it from the back top I believe and rolled into place by hammer (works best before the tcase is installed)

There's no way of doing it, that I've found, That's super easy and not frustrating
 
  #58  
Old 07-31-2024 | 12:28 PM
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Ok everything is in but the drive shaft. Hit the key and it clicks one time and everything shutoff like a dead battery which battery was good when I parked and it's been disconnected the entire time. It's on charge to verify that it's good. Any other idea what would cause that?
also when I turn to accessory it is slow to power up and it seems to be flickering and it sounds like I can hear a relay constantly switching on and off
 
  #59  
Old 07-31-2024 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SharpieDodge
Ok everything is in but the drive shaft. Hit the key and it clicks one time and everything shutoff like a dead battery which battery was good when I parked and it's been disconnected the entire time. It's on charge to verify that it's good. Any other idea what would cause that?
also when I turn to accessory it is slow to power up and it seems to be flickering and it sounds like I can hear a relay constantly switching on and off
Sounds like symptoms of a dead battery, and/or poor ground connection, just because they're disconnected doesn't mean they wont drain. I keep a float charger maintainer connected to anything even if I have the battery disconnected working on something. Nothing more frustrating then going to start your finished projects and click click.
 
  #60  
Old 07-31-2024 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dodgetruck2
Sounds like symptoms of a dead battery, and/or poor ground connection, just because they're disconnected doesn't mean they wont drain. I keep a float charger maintainer connected to anything even if I have the battery disconnected working on something. Nothing more frustrating then going to start your finished projects and click click.
installed a new battery ground terminal and nss is grounded to body. perhaps im not making good connections
 


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