What color are you using on the wheels and intake? I am a sucker for bronze/gold colors one wheels.
I guess with 408ci and 10:1 comp you should have all the low end you need. One other things most people don't consider is the increase in piston speed at a given rpm when doing a stroker. Example a stock 360 piston is moving 29.83 ft/sec at 3000rpm (~ peak torque).
The math for that:
3.58in/stroke * 2 stroke/revolution * 3000revolutions/min * 1ft/12 in * 1min/60sec = 29.83 ft/sec (I know I could've left at in/min and saved some conversion factors, but I think ft/sec really shows how much pistons are moving).
Now lets see what rpm that is with a 4.00" stroke:
29.83 ft/sec * 60sec/1min * 12in/1ft * 1 stroke/4.00in * 1rev/2strokes = 2684.7 rpm

So simply by stroking the engine we have increased piston speed at any given rpm by the ratio of the old vs new stroke. Another way to look at it would be 3.58/4 * 3000 rpm = 2685 rpm for the same piston speed with the new stroke. Or we could compare 3000 rpm of the new stroke compared to the old by inverting the ratio like this, 4/3.58 * 3000 rpm = 3351 rpm.

Basically I am adding supporting material for you skeptic, you will have more cylinder filling at lower rpms by virtue of higher piston speeds.

 

Brass Monkey Metallic, it's a modern mopar color.

 

I knew it looked familiar, when I was working at the dealer the first models with brass monkey wheels were just coming in, my favorite of the SRT wheels colors.

 

I'm with him. I really like that look. Very nice update to the ORE wheel.

And btw, you've shamed me into taking the bed off mine and re-doing the back half in the spring.

Thank you for keeping this thread active. It's a great read.

 

Well we had some fun today boys. First time I've ever run anything on the dyno.

For reference again, this is a stock 5.9 with 180,000 miles on it. The heads were off and redone (just stock rebuild, new valve job) about 5 years ago. Intake manifold runners were cut down about 2 inches, though I don't expect that made any difference.

The purpose of this dyno day was to establish a stock baseline, not tune it, so we made no adjustments to the spark, though it was kinda lean so we did add a little fuel. I figured it would make 180 at the tire. Here are the results.

The first graph here is actually the third run. We were playing with the TCC lockup in hp tuners because as you'll see in the other runs, it was acting a little strange. By the third run we had added fuel twice (12% more total), so this isn't the best power figure of the 3, but it is the cleanest since we got the TCC right.



187hp/247tq. More or less what you'd expect.

The next graph is the first run, nothing changed from the stock calibration, and you can see at about 3200rpm it has a woopiedo from the torque converter clutch lockup.



As you can see, in stock form, it made 194hp/268tq. Not terrible for what it is.

Finally, here is the second run. We put 7% more fuel in it up top and it picked up a few numbers above 4200, but it didn't change the peak.




I'll put up the dyno videos up as soon as the old man gets them sent my way.

If we take the best run and plug it into a conversion calculator. The puts us at 258 at the crank. Not bad.




My block has been decked, and the main/cam bores checked. Still awaiting the hone. Once that's done it will be good to go. In the meantime, I took one of the valvesprings up there to measure it and ensure it's a good match for the camshaft. As it came (double spring with a damper) it was 150lbs at the seat, and 400lbs open at max cam lift (.585"). With the inner spring removed, it was 125lbs on the seat and 305lbs open. So we will see what Daniel Powell recommends I do there. He suggested it might be in a good range with the inners removed, but as is they're too strong for the application.

 

Love to hear that! These old trucks deserve to be treated to a little care after decades of use.

Thanks man, appreciate the encouragement.

 

Interesting curves there. I would have expect a bit more down in the lower end..... but, it is what it is. What are they rated for stock from the factory??

 

245 crank hp is the rating

What do you find interesting about the curves? They're essentially exactly what I expected. Unless you're referring to the TCC loops on 2 of the 3.

 

The loops are puzzling..... But, Its the lack of torque on the low end I find strange. These are supposed to be TRUCK motors..... I would expect the curve to be steeper, and start lower..... Your graphs don't even begin until north of 2500 RPM..... But, I would guess that the dyno just isn't accurate below 2500.....

Suppose it's an illustration of why we have torque converters.

 

​​​​​​The loops are the TCC clutch applying or releasing in an inopportune fashion, the green run doesn't have them after we figured out how to prevent it.

We actually started the pulls all the way down at 2 grand, so I'm not sure why it only starts graphing at 2700. I'm not that surprised by the shape. If you think about it, most dyno charts you see start at 3000-3500, so if you lopped off the sections of my runs before that it would look just as you describe, highest at the start and an immediate decline in torque.

I mean the starting torque number is probably only 10-15 below the peak number. 🤷 Seems like a good truck design to me.

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