Rear leaf spring blockhelp
#11
08-06-2024, 05:30 PM
U-bolts on my truck look just about the same. I already have the new bolts, but all the other issues there is, I've not done nothing to those. But instead of going with the stock style, I'm inverting them and the plate goes to the top of the spring. I don't like how the stock style has excess thread hanging down and getting caught by rocks etc. Don't even bother to try to remove nuts as the bolts are so badly mangled, probably would just break as they are so corroded.
#12
08-06-2024, 09:48 PM
The fuel pump line connects at the tank with one of those fuel injection hose couplers going into a short section of plastic line that is made onto the steel OE fuel line. I bought a brand new OE fuel line and the plastic section kinked during the installation. I ended up removing the plastic line section and installed a length of rubber fuel injection hose with two fuel injection clamps. The rubber fuel hose has enough length to allow me to easily drop the fuel tank without issue if I ever have to do it in the future. The OE fuel line runs up to about the front of the transmission where another piece of OE fuel line connects to the metal fuel line and runs up to the engine's fuel rail.
As for the stainless brake steel lines, I purchased pre-bent stainless lines from Classic Tube. There are several places that sell them, if desired. You can also purchase a 15' - 25' coil of 3/16" steel brake line and bend & double-flare the new brake lines yourself, if desired. I found the OE fuel lines on eBay, after looking up the part numbers in the factory parts manual downloadable on this site. As for the U-bolts, nuts and hardened washers, I found them here - https://uboltstore.com/
As for the stainless brake steel lines, I purchased pre-bent stainless lines from Classic Tube. There are several places that sell them, if desired. You can also purchase a 15' - 25' coil of 3/16" steel brake line and bend & double-flare the new brake lines yourself, if desired. I found the OE fuel lines on eBay, after looking up the part numbers in the factory parts manual downloadable on this site. As for the U-bolts, nuts and hardened washers, I found them here - https://uboltstore.com/
#13
08-06-2024, 09:56 PM
And to think I spent two days wire wheeling and spraying em down with penetrating fluid. The new u bolts were on the bench. Wasn't thinking what I was doing. Yeah I'm that old. On the good side I still have the passenger side to remove. I will not be using a socket. Thanks HeyYou!
#14
08-06-2024, 10:30 PM
Champion
I just used a good quality air operated impact wrench with the right sized deep impact socket and it yanked off the U-bolt nuts without issue, no penetrating oil or anything. If that fails or you don't have a good air impact wrench, you can quickly cut the U-bolts off with a 3" whiz-wheel/muffler cutoff tool, such as this - https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...ool-58690.html
#15
08-07-2024, 11:16 AM
Record Breaker
Technically the only safe way to "stack" blocks is if one bolts to the pack by the center pin, and it really shouldn't be more than an inch or so.
U-bolts shouldn't be reused. Measure what you need and call a spring shop. Many will ship, including Alcan -- but there are lots of others.
I start a u-bolt flip here around Post #15
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...dations-2.html
U-bolts shouldn't be reused. Measure what you need and call a spring shop. Many will ship, including Alcan -- but there are lots of others.
I start a u-bolt flip here around Post #15
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...dations-2.html
#16
08-08-2024, 11:03 PM
I just used a good quality air operated impact wrench with the right sized deep impact socket and it yanked off the U-bolt nuts without issue, no penetrating oil or anything. If that fails or you don't have a good air impact wrench, you can quickly cut the U-bolts off with a 3" whiz-wheel/muffler cutoff tool, such as this - https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...ool-58690.html
#17
08-08-2024, 11:09 PM