Help again please? On my 01 1500 the axle spacer which on mine includes the tab for the rubber hard stop or " Jounce" I think it's called. I need to know how that assembly is fastened together. Like are the spring packs bolted together alone or does a bolt go all the way through the spacer and springs. Took the u bolts off and tried jacking up on the leaf spring and axle was coming up also. Is the other side preventing it to separate? OK, I know I'm messing up here but was trying to add a shim to help out the lean. That's when I saw how bad the leaf spring was wore the flock out. There's no doubt I need to change both leaf springs out, but I will need help with that. But for now you think I could install a 1'' or 1 1/2 spacer above the original spacer? Any suggestions on new leaf spring sets would be greatly appreciated. I hope the pics come out. I drew arrows where I am attempting to separate it at. If I can get a pic of the spring, I'll send it. I think yall would get a kick out it. Thank you very much for any help!!

 

The pin or tab that bolts the leaf pack together has a cone head the sits in the corresponding hole in the block, same for the block to the axle perch. Very likely rusted together but a few blows from a hammer should separate them easily.

Now would be a good time to decide if you want to do a lift or anything. Some lift kits will come with an entirely new spring pack. Usually the extreme lifts but I'm sure there's options. Otherwise I would try like etrailer, or rock auto. Should be some good options, or check out local shops might make you a custom pack for what you like/do

EDIT: didnt realize it was 2x4 when I typed the above

I would look into the cuase of the lean, make sure it isnt a broken leaf spring or shackle. Frame looks pretty clean so rusted out parts seems unlikely.

 

Thanks dodgetruck2. Getting ready to go try the hammer method. I'm going with rust as the problem now. This truck has been on the beach at least a dozen times a year since I bought it new. I literally pressure wash underneath after every trip and let water run through different areas of the frame until the sand stops coming out. I have even drilled some holes at various locations. But I am still learning areas where I haven't been able to get it all. Such as when dropping the spring plate after removing the u bolts. Took about 30 minutes with a chipping hammer to get all the rusted chunks off. Also, the u bolts were not in the greatest shape where it was holding sand where the u bolts go through the spring plate. It is a 4x4 and I did go out this morning and rechecked what you advised, and I see no evidence of a broken leaf or shackle on either side. I do carry about 300 to 400 lbs of gear whether to the beach or the hills. I'm thinking they are just worn the heck out. Thanks again!!

 

Thank you dodgetruck2! The hammer taps were successful.

In place and torqued.

Good thing I got new u bolts.

 

There was another post here where one was rusted threw. What part of the country is "the beach"? You may want to have a look at the brake line that runs along the frame rail next to the gas tank. They like to burst when you go to stop.

 

Woah!!! Thank you Moparite. Just did a quick look at the brake line. You probably just saved my butt some serious tow bill money! I have used the cut and pinch method on one of the small trucks I've owned but wouldn't want to chance that on this full-size truck. Since the fuel tank has to come down for the leaf spring change out, this has definitely been added to the " Other " things to do while doing the leaf spring change out. What's your take on the fuel line? Isn't that the larger line on the front pics? Not the best pics though. The beach is OBX in North Carolina. I live in Virginia so, about 2 1/2 hours to the beach ( Buxton ) or 2 1/2 hours to my cabin in central VA where that sticky *** clay is!! I'm about 30 miles from the Virginia Beach oceanfront but I stay away from there.

Rear of tank.
Thanks again!!

Front of tank.

 

The brake line is definitely something you want to replace soon. Looks pretty rusty. If you plan to keep the truck awhile, might want to consider replacing it with a stainless steel line. I purchased a set of stainless steel brake lines and replaced all of them on my truck since the truck is over 25+ years old and brake failure on a 3/4 ton truck wouldn't be very pretty.

As for the other metal lines, there is a vapor line that goes to the charcoal canister from the fuel tank. Mine was pretty rusty, so I replaced it while I was in there. I also replaced the fuel injection lines from the tank to the injector rail since I didn't want to deal with the issue in the future.

BTW, glad you caught those rusted U-bolts when you did. One of mine had broken clean through when I swapped the rear for a disc brake Dana 60. The plates that the U-bolts go through tend to hold moisture and road debris, so rust around those U-bolts tend to be fairly common. My plates were so rusty and weak when I pulled them off that they had to be replaced..

 

Thanks AtomicDog. Started wire wheeling and spraying bolts down today. I did trace the bigger line back to the fuel rail. I've done the fuel pump before but can't remember how that hooked up on the tank end. Yeah I'm drilling holes in the u bolt plates at the two lowest points. If they don't look good, I'll replace them too. I'll check the other lines you mentioned as well. I've got a little brake line, thinking of just making my own, if it's the right size I'm thinking steel line would outlive me anyway. I'm old and broken down but I can still get under this truck. Where did you get your stainless-steel lines and the other parts from?
Oh and you found a broken u bolt on a 2500? Bet that brought up some, what if thoughts. Would for me. Damn. Thanks for your advise!!

 

The fuel pump line connects at the tank with one of those fuel injection hose couplers going into a short section of plastic line that is made onto the steel OE fuel line. I bought a brand new OE fuel line and the plastic section kinked during the installation. I ended up removing the plastic line section and installed a length of rubber fuel injection hose with two fuel injection clamps. The rubber fuel hose has enough length to allow me to easily drop the fuel tank without issue if I ever have to do it in the future. The OE fuel line runs up to about the front of the transmission where another piece of OE fuel line connects to the metal fuel line and runs up to the engine's fuel rail.

As for the stainless brake steel lines, I purchased pre-bent stainless lines from Classic Tube. There are several places that sell them, if desired. You can also purchase a 15' - 25' coil of 3/16" steel brake line and bend & double-flare the new brake lines yourself, if desired. I found the OE fuel lines on eBay, after looking up the part numbers in the factory parts manual downloadable on this site. As for the U-bolts, nuts and hardened washers, I found them here - https://uboltstore.com/

 

U-bolts on my truck look just about the same. I already have the new bolts, but all the other issues there is, I've not done nothing to those. But instead of going with the stock style, I'm inverting them and the plate goes to the top of the spring. I don't like how the stock style has excess thread hanging down and getting caught by rocks etc. Don't even bother to try to remove nuts as the bolts are so badly mangled, probably would just break as they are so corroded.