In typical import parts fashion, this is poorly labeled. The 1/8‐27 is obviously NPT (because 27 TPI is otherwise not a thing plus 1/8" would actually be a #5 like 5-40) and the 1/4‐28 is smaller than the 1/8‐27 because, again, pipe thread.

I also sourced some M5 zerks because that may very well be what you find in u-joints that are greaseable in one cap.

Again, don't confuse M5 (metric) with #5 (Amuhreecan). I only mention because people often get confused and think, say, a 10-32 machine screw is M10. BIG difference! (#10 is 3/16")

 

I've been busy during all the rain cleaning everything up and hope to get the frame done when the rain stops sometime in August, I guess. Anyway, after Keiths posts, I did some googling and found that masonry drills seem to work well with a low speed drill press (which I don't have) for spring steel. This isn't going to happen with my drill index and my Ryobi cordless drill. So I went hardware shopping and came home with some 1/4-28 zerks that have a longer shaft. My 1/4-28 tap says to use a No3 drill bit which I don't have. About that time my neighbor wandered over to check on my progress. He has a drill press and his son is 2 years out of trade school, working as a machinist. We're gonna tackle this probably tues-wed this week.

tl:dr, I'm working on it with the neighbor across the street..

 

I might be inclined to try a center cutting end mill and just peck drill, but getting one close to .213 is a little problematic. Even then I'm not sure how well a tap will fare.

You might revisit drilling the spring eye bolt, then cross drill where the two halves of poly meet. You can easily turn (face) the poly to shorten it and create a small gap so the two halves don't quite touch. This is kinda how Icon does their greaseable UCAs for my wife's F150

Either way, let us know! I'm sure your neighbor's kid will have solutions

 

He said exactly that! The bushings do have a gap when installed, which is what got me thinking about this.

Walking the dog this morning, an xj jeep with a lift went by and all I could hear was squeaking as it went over the uneven neighborhood road. Not a fan of that if I can avoid it.

 

There was one company, whose name I simply cannot recall at the moment..... That made graphite impregnated poly bushings. Those guys did NOT squeak.

 

That's what I tend to use and many poly bushings made these days use that process. Once I grease and install those poly bushing, I've NEVER encountered any squeaking. You can do a quick Google search on "who makes graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings" to see who manufacturers these bushings..

 

I have the Energy suspension rear bushing kit in black.
The website says "A select few of our black polyurethane components contain graphite to add a lubrication property. Graphite is not added to the red formulation because black graphite discolors the red polyurethane. Graphite does not compromise our polyurethane formulas."
I have kit number SKU: 5.2119G. I wonder if the G stands for graphite. I think I'll give them a call on Tuesday and see what they say.

 

Thanks for researching further. Better understanding today's poly bushing formulations is an interesting subject to me...

 

You may want to check this out.

 

Wouldn't you want the grease in the center with the bolt (did I miss some of the post)? The outside of the bushing shoudn't move when in the spring or control arms. Get a bolt with the zerk fitting with a through hole https://www.rockjock4x4.com/products...ment-greasable