Hey you’re going to school right... what are you taking lol any teachers/profs there that might know of a way?

 

im going for fire science... pretty much a degree in firefighting.. i dont take any physics classes.

yea whenever is good for you.. i can get the weight tomorow b/c im going to my uncles to rewire like ive been talkin about

youd think it would be easy to find math formulas on the net... man this is hard to figure out..

 

firefighting cool i took come classes in that, there isent many schools that offer those corces, where are you taking them though and at what school?

yah google always has something but its let me down this time..

 

actually through a community college... the city of rochester ny and the college went in together on this program and AAS degree in this field... kicks ***!

 

Cool I got mine was on the fire dept before I moved they had an instructor come out and do some of the corces for out dept they were though Fire ect. I don’t know if you have herd of them or not though i was going to go to there school if i hadent of moved here i still might i dont know for sure

 

you should do it dude...chicks dig firefighters


How much airflow (cfm) do I need to cool my engine?

A four cylinder engine requires 1600 cfm; a six cylinder engine requires 2,000 cfm, a small V-8 engine requires 3,000 cfm and large V-8 engines require 4500+ cfm

 

ohhh where did you find that!!

i just checked out flex-a-lites website they recomend a fan with between 3300-5500 cfm for a chevy 5.0-7.4L V8 i couldent fins one for dodge but outs cant be that much diffrent

 

hey ryan the foam worked great... i couldnt use the U shaped rubber stuff... still didnt have enough clearence... i only have prolly a 16th of an inch on each side... but the foam tape worked awesome! and also caulked the fans in so any air will be drawn through the cores...

still having a hard time deciding how i want it wired... rewired the whole thing and right before i was done i decided i didnt like and realized a better way to wire it all up

its 60 deg's out today.. and the single fan cooled perfectly... it was just on a little longer then the both on together... and its prolly sucking air through the other side fan.. so if the single fan was in its own shroud and sealed almost perfect.. id bet youd be cooking with chicken..

and i installed LED's for idiot lights to let me know what fan is kicked on .. and they keep burning up... not sure why...

i used 2 100 amp duty selenoids for the relays..one for each fan.. and now i hate how they look..man them things are ugly!!!!... but if one 100amp seleniod withstood the split second 160 amp draw of the fans wired together.. then im sure id get away with 2 smaller 75 amp bosche style relays (alot nicer looking) wired to one fan each...

the only other thing is that i could get the second fan to kick on at all..that side of the rad doesnt even have a chance to get warm at all...

regardless of how i wire it im gonna get either a 200 amp or a 160 amp alternator and keep it on hand as back up... ive had problems with my alt before when i was wheeling alot... and the bearings arent too quite in it either...

more tinkering around... when i get everything wired up as i want it then ill go ahead and do a good write up..

oh one more thing... i knew better too.... but the idiots that have drawn up all them nice diagrams on how to wire fans and they mention the use of a/some diodes... didnt do it correctly... as your driving down the road and the fans arnt on they spin and they generate dc volts.. mine generate between 5 to 10 volts.. well in the diagrams they want you to put a diode in between the leads of the fans... with the band on the positve wire and the other side on the negative wire... well .. me..knowing better anyway.. i did it.. and of course it doesnt work like its saposed to... so in order for me to control the backfeed of current i need to find either a diode that will withstand 100amp draw... or get 100 1amp diodes.. lol ..... im outa practice big time.. .wiring ideas usually hit me like a bag of bricks..now i gotta sit there and think about all this crap!... im getting slow in my old age..

 

well glad it all worked out for you ive got a silinoid in my truck thats 120 continus, 180 momentary i use it for my isolation silinoid i got that one because my alt puts out 117 and i wanted to be ablr to start the truck throuhg it, ive got to male a over for all my eletronic stuff i was thinking alumimum checker plate, its a pritty ugly site under my hood lol

when your fans are off the silinoids are disconected (open) right? if so in theory you shouldent need a diode because the power cant be genorated because it has no where to go (cant jump through the open sininoid)

and with your leds you are hooking + and - correctley right lol with leds i belive it matters whitch is whitch, i got some to flash in my headlights and tail lights that im gonna hook up to the alarm and a switch so thell flash wen the alarm is on or i can throw a switch and have them on wen driving (use them as park lights) there super bright and on the instructions it says specifically whitch is + and -...just an idea

i havent looked verry close but now well is the stock shroud sealed im wondering if i could use that somehow and mount a fan there using the existing shroud? just anouther idea lol

 

yea dude... diodes are polartiy specific... i know

anyway... i know that the backfeed current cant jump the solenoids open contacts.. but when the solenoid does get kicked on... that voltage spike is what im worried about... and that feedsback to the battery and back to the alt and back to the PDC.... and another odd thing happend today... my wiper/turn signal stalk is acting up... it will only kick on the wipers at Lo or High.. the Delay doesnt work at all..and when i push in the end cap for the squirters..the squirters squirt but the wipers dont come automatically like they are saposed to...