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Dodge Full Size Rams- Door Rust Problems

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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 05:26 PM
  #21  
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Spot welded. You could conceivably use 'body goo'. The stuff they use to glue body panels together at the factory...... but, I would supplement that with a selection of tack welds.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 05:41 PM
  #22  
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You can get all the repair panels you want, from here. http://www.certifit.com/Default.aspx?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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Default rusty doors - 1999 RAM 1500

The bottoms of both of my doors on my 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 have totally rusted out. I'm wondering if it is possible to locate 2 door from a west coast junkyard that can be bolted on as replacements? Otherwise I need to find some repairs. They are looking pretty ugly right now. The rest of the truck has held up well for 12 years and 70,000 miles.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 02:58 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by solonphotos
The bottoms of both of my doors on my 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 have totally rusted out. I'm wondering if it is possible to locate 2 door from a west coast junkyard that can be bolted on as replacements? Otherwise I need to find some repairs. They are looking pretty ugly right now. The rest of the truck has held up well for 12 years and 70,000 miles.
I just provided a link to where you can get replacement panels.Did you read this thread? Other than that try www.car-part.com
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 09:45 PM
  #25  
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this thread is a little old but I was at the junk yard about a week ago or so and happened to find a black ram sport just like mine but it had passanger side damage and minor damage to the front grille. I was able to take the driver side door though which had zero rust. I'm going to put it on mine soon. Now all I need is the passanger side door which really needs to be replaced. If u can find them not rusted I would say find doors from a junk yard. They are $50 bucks a diir near me. U cant beat that.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #26  
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I used the Gator Guard roll on bedliner on mine.It took about an hour to do and it wasnt to hard.First I cleaned off all the the rust and sanded it to bare metal.Second I took 2 inch masking tape and made a line where I wanted the top to come to.Third I mixed the bedliner and brushed it on with a paint brush.After I got it all on I peeled the masking tape while the liner was still wet so it would pull off easy and make a clean line.Then just let it cure
 
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Last edited by diehardjohndeer; Nov 4, 2011 at 09:27 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 10:25 PM
  #27  
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Another site -= http://www.c2cfabrication.com/
 
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 10:37 PM
  #28  
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http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=20

I accidentally ordered the door bottom so I know the exist from LMC.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 05:18 AM
  #29  
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Okay, first of all, I am a retired autobody man, so I will share some experience with this. The panel glue you speak of is good stuff. Much of the corvette is glued together - like the inner fender wells to the frame with some shoulder bolts there only for alignment. It is good, but realize that once it is on, it really does require a hammer & chisel to remove it. As for bed liner, yes this is also a great idea if some common sense is used. When you do the inside of the doors, make sure that while the stuff is still wet, poke the hole for drainage out again before the stuff dries. I have used bed armour like this on the inside of some doors for sound isolation for improved sound systems also. I remember a 68 charger I did a frame off resto on, after replacing all rust - and there was a ton on that car, I used a spray on bed liner from the local line X shop at the time - the roll on stuff was not really well known then. I did the entire under carriage, the inside of the engine bay & the trunk with that stuff & they shot some inside the doors as best they could, and the floorboards. Back then, the line X shop charged my shop over $2k for that. You can save a ton now with the roll on stuff. Now, LMC does have partial door skins available. As for the aftermarket doors, fenders etc, they are all made in the orient. They like to save a bit by making EVERYTHING slightly smaller than the stock parts, so panel gaps are typically larger than they should be. Sometimes the gaps are so much larger, it looks ridiculous. In those cases, I had to add some thin welded strips or poly based filler to make it look right again. There are shops in the south that have great used panels. I am in Iowa now so I am in your same boat, but I used to live in Fort Worth Texas, there they have the "heaven" series of salvage yards. There is a dodge heaven, a honda heaven etc and they all have the best stock panels you can find already painted. If you are lucky, you can find them in the color you want! Also remember to follow instructions on the can of bed liner for cleaning or it wont stick for long. Cleaning the inside of a door shell is a pain in the ***, but well worth the effort. I hope this helps. If you have more detailed questions on this, feel free to PM me.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 05:26 AM
  #30  
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I nearly forgot to add - those chrome strips at the bottom of doors are an AWFUL idea, they will retain some salt, sand & moisture causing rust to speed up where you cant see it until it is too late to repair the door. Auto bras are the same way and just a horrible thing to put on any car you love. A hint for you - if you have issues with chips on the front of your ride, you can have a body shop add some extra coats of clear coat to the nose of your ride and this will add extra protection.
 
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