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pads and rotors???

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Old 08-22-2006, 06:39 PM
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Default pads and rotors???

Any recomendations on a new set of rotors and pads? I was in a bind 3 months ago and bought a cheap set of pads from a local parts store. They are already shot. At the time I put the pads in I noticed that one of my rotors was a little scored. Drivers side inner. Also, when I removed the old pads that same one was worn down all the way. The other 3 were not nearly as bad. What would cause one pad to wear more than the others. 3/16 of an inch difference in wear from the drivers side inner than the others.

But I do need new pads and either new rotors/or have them machined. I'm also thinking of doing Burning rom's cylinder swap if it will take some of the work off the front brakes. And if it will work on my truck.

Thanks guys



 
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Old 08-22-2006, 06:48 PM
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Default RE: pads and rotors???

I would LOVE to find some sort of aftermarket replacement for my front brakes. They are ( in my opinion ) WAAAAAY too small for my truck. I've replaced the rotors twice now and it looks like I'll be shopping around for a third. Pretty frustrating. Apparently because of the design they can't just be popped off like regular ones to be cut. Something with the bearings ..... I dunno.

If anyone knows of an aftermarket company that makes a larger set-up for my truck I'd be much appreciative!!
 
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:01 PM
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Default RE: pads and rotors???

If the rotors are scored, then no big deal. Theoretically there is more braking surface. My dad was an automotive engineer and talked with guys in Detroit who knew more about brakes than any person should know. Their stance was that scored rotors do no harm.
 
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:01 PM
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Default RE: pads and rotors???

Yeah, the front brakes are a problem on these trucks. It is annoying. On my truck the rotors pop right off, so a good aftermarket replacement would be great. I know there are few brands out there but I'd be guessing as to what is good and what is crap. On a previous post here I think I read that a set of ceramic pads are good BUT they will wear out the rotors even faster. (Don't quote me on that). That's why I'm thinking of a well matched set that might work well together. I carry ALOT of tools in my truck so I expect to replace the pads 2 times a year. Which is still TOO much, but I've accepted that.

Pads lasting 3 months though, that is just wrong. IMO.

 
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:05 PM
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Default RE: pads and rotors???

I bought a set of EGR slotted rotors and carbon/kevlar brake pads. I gotta be honest, I have almost 15,000 miles on them and there is more than half the pad left. Slotted rotors are sufficient for daily driving and have no problem taking heat all day long. The major heat build up in brakes isin't the pads themselves, but gases that form between the pad and rotor. Gases are compressable so that's where the heat build up takes places. Slotted and cross drilled rotors aleviate this problem.

There are also trade offs. A super dense brake pad will last longer and not fade with heat, but will physically wear down any kind of rotor. Cross drilled rotors are ok for half tons in my opinion. I hear of some guys using them on the heavy duties also. It's a fact that cross drilling a rotor reduces the amount of surface braking area considerably. You'll have to step on the pedal harder to get the same amount of braking. It's not noticable driving around town because there is not much effort needed to stop a 30 mph truck. But in a panic situation, more pedal travel is required for extreme braking. And if you live in a cold, salty winter part of the world, slotted rotors are notorious for literally "pie chunking". They rust up in all them extra holes. and seem to have a shorter life span than slotted rotors.Exposing more metal to the elements brings corrosion on that much faster. Big, pie shaped pieces break off. You can get them coated but I have never seen anything hold up to a few winters so far. Not where I live anyway.

Just my thoughts on the subject.

Good luck.
 
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:08 PM
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Default RE: pads and rotors???

VW, you beat me by 2 seconds! lol. I believe that, I don't think it's a big deal. But when inspection time comes around it might be hard for me to explain that. I'd still be willing to put out some cash for a good matched set of rotors and pads that lasted longer.
 
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:11 PM
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Default RE: pads and rotors???

I can't keep up with you guys, every time I start typing some one else posts!

I'm going to have a few beers and read the thread again in an hour

 
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:16 PM
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Default RE: pads and rotors???

Any type of brake pad can wear down well within 3 months. It's my experience 9 times out of ten that the calipers are not being properly maintained, so they are hanging up. The slider pins and bushings are crucial. I take to my calipers with a set of wire wheels on a mini grinder. If you brush down to bare metal.......and that's BRUSH....not grind.........lol, and apply a good caliper lubricant, you will have no problems with brakes. Outside this site, I would guess most people never think about brakes till they hear noises.....lol. Brakes MUST be maintained at a minimum of twice a year. I get together with my buddies and we all check our trucks out three or 4 times a year.

Preventative maintainence is the key to longevity. That's my attitude...........lol. Either way,


Good luck.
 
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:48 PM
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Default RE: pads and rotors???

ORIGINAL: sawdust2

VW, you beat me by 2 seconds! lol. I believe that, I don't think it's a big deal. But when inspection time comes around it might be hard for me to explain that. I'd still be willing to put out some cash for a good matched set of rotors and pads that lasted longer.
Are you telling me that your rotors are inspected? I would do jack unless the inspector said anything about it.
 
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:09 PM
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Default RE: pads and rotors???


ORIGINAL: DieselDemon

It's a fact that cross drilling a rotor reduces the amount of surface braking area considerably. You'll have to step on the pedal harder to get the same amount of braking. It's not noticable driving around town because there is not much effort needed to stop a 30 mph truck. But in a panic situation, more pedal travel is required for extreme braking. And if you live in a cold, salty winter part of the world, slotted rotors are notorious for literally "pie chunking". They rust up in all them extra holes. and seem to have a shorter life span than slotted rotors.Exposing more metal to the elements brings corrosion on that much faster. Big, pie shaped pieces break off. You can get them coated but I have never seen anything hold up to a few winters so far. Not where I live anyway.

Just my thoughts on the subject.

Good luck.
I never knew ( or thought about ) the whole rust thing with cross drilled rotors. I also didn't know that they required more pedal to use. ( NOT what I need !! ) I WAS going to cross drill my new set of rotors myself, but now i think I'm just gonna skip it.

Thanks for the info Demon !!
 


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