hey shot its been a long time since ive been around here...but im back!!!

this is a great idea i cant think of much else to add however i did think of one thing but dont know if it really fits on here since its not bolts but i could give you some bulb #s, fues, (o know thats in the owners book but it your like me youll have no idea where it is at this point in time anymore i also have some wire codes (to put in alarms, remote starters ect.) if u want then just let me know

 

hey buster!! bout friggen time you cam back round'

yea htats a good idea bout the bulb numbers etc etc.. ill add that too along with wiring info for starters alarms and radios... ill pull that stuff off my 12volt database.. when i get some damn time ill be hopefully either putting this info in a pdf or spread sheet of some sort...

glad to see your back!

 

Cummins Turbo bolts:
Turbo to manifold: studs, 10 mm, bolts 10 mmx1.5
turbo to exhaust: bolts 10 mm x 50 mm 1.5

 

in the first post it says a 1/2" is needed for the oil pan to engine, i just my oil a few hours ago and mine was 5/8"

 

RamOwna
LMAO, your right!

Oil drain plug is 5/8" and is not in the freakin list. I only mentioned the 1/2 bolts that hold the oil pan to the bottom of the block and forgot the plug, duh.

 

hehe, just keepin everybody on their toes lol

 

nut on the ground strap, under the dash next to the glove box. - 1/4"

 

On a 1995 Ram
the screws that hold the PCM computer to the firewall
are 5/16
AND...Special Warning...
the lower left screw can't be removed by a 'normal'
nut driver or socket...a u-joint or special 'stubby'
driver is needed!

 

The fan on a 5.9V8 Magnum is kind of funky looking. It has 5 blades, but 2 of
them are bunched together and the other 3 are spaced out normally. There is a
stiffening wire embedded in the blades. It takes less than 15 minutes to take
this fan off, but if the fan had been made in two parts that split - you would
not have to take the big nut off the fan clutch - and the fan could be removed in 5 minutes.

Instead of buying a 36 mm wrench {1.417 inches}, I cut two strips of metal
from a tin can. These strips turned out to be 0.010 inches thick. I taped
two such home-made 'shims' to the inside faces of my 1 7/16 wrench {1.4375}
which closed the opening up to (1.4375 - 0.020) = 1.4175 This worked fine to
loosen the clutch-to-waterpump nut. Make the shims 'fish hook' shaped and you
can tape them in place from the backside. Or you can make the shim in a U-shape and use some of that red double sided 3M 'Super Strong' automotive trim tape at the bottom of the U to hold it in the wrench.

 

AC Compressor – ½”
Accell 3 bar map – 5/16” allen
Alt/AC Main Bracket - 9/16"
Alternator – 7mm & 10mm
Arp head studs - 9/16” 12pt deep & ¾” 6pt deep
Axle Shaft Nut - 1-11/16"
Battery terminals - 10mm
Bed body mounts - 11/16”
Body Mounts Cab – 12mm
Brake Line to Frame - 9/16"
Brake Line to Frame - 9/16"
Bumper Bolts - 18mm C9.25
Cover - ½” Caliper Bolts - 3/8 Allen
Castle Nut on Stock Trac Bar - 24mm
Collectors & Ypipe – 9/16”
Control Arm Lower - 21mm & 18mm
Control Arm Upper - 18mm & 15 mm
Crank Bolt - 32mm or 1 ¼”
Crank Position – 9/16”
Crank Pulley – ½”
Crankshaft Position Sensor – ¼” Allen as well as ½”
Crossbar from Motor to Trans – ½” & 5/8"
D44 Axle Shaft Nut – 1-11/16 β€œ
D44 Cover - ½”
D44 Filler Nut - ¾”
Edelbrock Headers – ¼” allen & 5/16” 12pt & ½” open(studs)
Fan – ½”
Flexplate Shield - 7/16"
Flexplate to crank – 9/16”
Flexplate to TC – 9/16”
Frame Line to Rear Brake line - 3/8”line wrench
Front Lower Shock Mount - 21mm
Gear Box Fluid Lines - 18mm
Gear Box to Frame – 7/8”
Harland Sharp 1.6rr (adj) stud/guide plates – 11/16”
Harland Sharp 1.6rr adjusters - 9/16”
Heads – 5/8”
Hub Bearing Retaining Bolts - 14mm 12pt
Hub Nut - 1-11/16”
Hub to Knuckle (3 bolts) - 14mm 12pt
Hughes 55 or Fastman 52 mm tbs – 3/16” allen
IAC - Torx 25
IAT - 3/4” open
Idler Pulley – 9/16”
Lifter Hold Down Plate – ½”
Lower Ball Joint – 1-1/8”
Lug Nut - 19mm
M1/Beerbarrel – ½”
Main caps – ¾”
MAP - Torx 25
Motor mount to motor – ½”
Motor mounts to frame - 18mm & 21mm
Motor to trans - 9/16"
Oil Pan to Motor – ½”
Piston Rod Caps – 9/16”
Pitman Arm Nut – 1-5/16” or 1-3/8”
Power Steering to Head - 9/16"
Radiator Bolts - 10mm
Rear Brake Line into Brake Cylinder - 5/16” line wrench
Rear Brake Line out from Rear Block - 3/8” line wrench
Rear Shackle Bolts - 10mm on the end of the bolt or torx on the head 21mm on the nut
Rear Shocks - 21mm
Seatbelt bolts - #50 Torx bit (95 1500)
Shock Tower Bolts - 15mm
Single Piston Caliper Bolts - 3/8” Allen
Spark Plug - 5/8” Starter Motor - 5/8" deep
Steering Column to Gear Box Buckle – ½” Steering
Stop Knuckle Screw (Stop Bolts) - 9/16”
Tail light - T20
Tensioner - 9/16"
Tensioner Pulley – 5/8”
Thermostat – ½”
Throttle Body Bolts - ½”
Throttle Linkage Bracket – 5/16”
TPS – Torx 25
Trac Bar Nut – 1-½”
Trac Bar to Axle - 18mm
Trans Hard Line Brackets to Engine – 9/16”
Transfer Case ALL Drain/Fill plugs – 10mm Allen
U-joint cap bolts- 3/8”
Upper Ball Joint - 1”
Valve covers - 7/16” deep
Vehicle Speed Sensor on Tranny – 1” 6 point Deep Well)
Viscous Fan clutch – 1-3/8” (14” adjustable)
Water Heater Fitting – 3/4” open or deep
Water Pump - 9/16"
Water Pump Pulley – ½”
Water Temp sensor (1pin/Drivers Side) – ½”
Water Temp sensor (2pin/middle one) – 11/16”