I recently purchased a 99 Ram 2500 4x4. I have owned a 98 Ram 1500 4x4 a few years ago and was happy with it. This new truck is causing me to pull out what little hair I have left! I have seen several other posts about the death-wobble and wandering. I don't experience the wobble, but the wandering is there. Also, another problem is that the steering wheel does not want to center itself after cornering. In other words, the truck would almost keep driving in circles if you take you hands off the wheel. It requires constant correction while driving.Seems worse at slower speeds, get better the faster you go. I have new track bar, new upper and lower ball joints, new u-joints, new steering box and power steering pump. Nothing helps! I just have to keep sawing at the wheel constantly from one side of the road to the other. The aligment has been checked by the shop tha did the work-TWICE and they even took it to another shop across town to verify their machine was working properly. I have no idea what else to rty, but I know the truck should drive better. It only has 67,000 miles on it. PLEASE HELP!!!

 

check the power steering fluid make sure its full check the play in the tie rods to see if it moves side to side u can do this but having someone wiggle the steering wheel back and forth and go under and watch the linkage it should all move at the same time also put ur hand over the joints to feel if then moving slightly. are u sure u have the right pump and gear to make sure ur belt tension is tight to. what are ur caster specs to

 

Pretty sure the gear is correct. Fluid is fine. After the ball joints and track bar were replaced the aligmnet was done according to the aligment machines specs. After that I found recommended specs @ dodgeram.org and had them change to that. It really wasnt too far off. The caster setting is now around 3.2 degrees . It seemed to help, but it just doesnt seem right to me. Thanks for the help.

 

The problem you describe is so exactly like one I had wtth the '96 1500 I bought after it had been sitting for years. It would not self-center and required constant steering input. When meeting a car coming on small roads I worried about hitting it or the ditch. It was much easier to manage when over 60 mph on the higway or below 20 on little roads.

My problem was stiff ball joints, but I know you already replaced yours. What else is there that can cause that stiffness? Caster, but you know that's OK. Tie rod ends and drag bar links - but you replaced those too. Steering box and pump, but they are new. If the new pump isn't right, seems to me you would notice that most when turning the wheel when stopped. Could something be wrong with the new ball joints? Is it possible to install them so they bind?

 

I thought the same thing about the ball joints and there is even a TSB regarding the 2500's that talks about this problem. You unhook tthe tie rods and use a scale to measure the force needed to pull the front spindle/hub from side to side. If its above a certain amount of force, there is an alternate part # for the right front ball joint. Mine checked fine.

 

My guess is you have seen this from the manual, but it's not much help anyway:

How about binding in the steering box? I remember creating that problem a long time ago by incorrectly adjusting a steering box. Might be best to disconnect both tie rod ends so the steering/llinkage could be checked as a whole. If there's stiffness overall, then you could narrow it down. But since you already disconnected them to check ball joint stiffness, I'll bet you checked for linkage and steering box stiffness at the same time.

I think the 2500 that year has leaf springs in front vs coils for the 1500's - could that contribute to the different feel from your previous 1500? Do the service techs also feel the problem when they test drive your truck?

Last ideas: Increase caster beyond specs. Find a really good exorcist. Make it somebody else's problem, trade it.

Allen

 

Sorry k12allen ... coils all around.

dr_destruction: Two things ... 1) make sure the steering box is not adjusted too tightly ... back off on the adjustment screw a bit (after loosening the lock nut) and 2) try MAX caster ... pull the axle all the way back.

 

Wasting time looking at stuff, I saw this site again: http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/00_steer_specs.html and it might be helpful.

Info there says manuals give acceptable caster being 2 degrees to 5 degrees but goes on to say it really needs to be between 3 & 4 degrees. At 3.2, you are OK by his standard, but would 4 deg help?

Allen

 

The steering box seems to be fine. There are no obvious tight spots in the range of motion. I have the steering damper off right now. At first I thought it was better without it on there, but there is a noticeable amount of bump steer now. Almost doesnt seem safe at higher speeds without it. I'm just not sure whats left to check. I just want to have it fixed!

 

My truck walked around a lot when I went to the tires size I have right now so I put on a skyjacker dual steering stabilizer kit I think it cost 125 or 150 dollars that helped mine . But I would try one other thing before u do sum thing that expensive . I would have a look at your tires and see if they are still balanced . A buddy of mine had a horrible shake and wobble in his truck . Then he found out he had lost a large tire weight.