HVAC - Accumulator
#1
HVAC - Accumulator
Per the FSM, this cylinder is the accumulator.
Appears I have it leaking and I've no idea the effects of this.
My search on "accumulator" mostly brings up topics on a/c compressor, condenser, and drier. Drier being used interchangeably with the accumulator?
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...placement.html
Does this require replacing (assume I will be using a/c)?
If so, then it's probably good idea to replace heater core as that's been an issue for my in the past. No leaking, just poor heat.
Additionally, I think my blend door just turns and turns and turns. My basis for this is I hear the motor running. I can get heat (low) without turning it on, which means just the heat from circulation is flowing. Turning heater ON, yes heat occurs. I've turned A/C on and it worked fine 2 days ago.
No driving since yesterday, not messed w/o HVAC, and I spot the leak as shown above.
Thanks for shedding some light on this.
Appears I have it leaking and I've no idea the effects of this.
My search on "accumulator" mostly brings up topics on a/c compressor, condenser, and drier. Drier being used interchangeably with the accumulator?
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...placement.html
Does this require replacing (assume I will be using a/c)?
If so, then it's probably good idea to replace heater core as that's been an issue for my in the past. No leaking, just poor heat.
Additionally, I think my blend door just turns and turns and turns. My basis for this is I hear the motor running. I can get heat (low) without turning it on, which means just the heat from circulation is flowing. Turning heater ON, yes heat occurs. I've turned A/C on and it worked fine 2 days ago.
No driving since yesterday, not messed w/o HVAC, and I spot the leak as shown above.
Thanks for shedding some light on this.
#2
Accumulator and drier are the same thing. That can be replaced without removing the evaporator core (with heater core) but now would be the time to do it. I would also recommend a new orifice (located at the end of the tube at the condenser. AC system will need to have refrigerant removed if there is still any left, a vacuum pulled after installation, and recharged. I just replaced mine last week as my condenser needed to be replaced.
it takes a special tool to remove the connector (after the external clip is removed).
I bought this one with free shipping. If you buy locally, make sure it is the correct one - they show more than one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-15-1...c7eba5&vxp=mtr
it takes a special tool to remove the connector (after the external clip is removed).
I bought this one with free shipping. If you buy locally, make sure it is the correct one - they show more than one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-15-1...c7eba5&vxp=mtr
Last edited by gdstock; 05-06-2012 at 08:33 PM.
#3
If you are going into the dash after the heater core, replace the evap core as well...... you are going to be RIGHT there, and it's a major pain to get in there.... (unless you don't have any dash left.....)
You obviously have a refrigerant leak there.... so, your a/c system is going to get less and less efficient, until it stops working altogether. Give the price of refrigerant...... replacing a couple parts, and evac/recharge ONCE, is going to end up being the cheaper route......
You obviously have a refrigerant leak there.... so, your a/c system is going to get less and less efficient, until it stops working altogether. Give the price of refrigerant...... replacing a couple parts, and evac/recharge ONCE, is going to end up being the cheaper route......
#4
Very cool Master Gents for the info.
Yeah, the super-fragil-istic dash is about 60% kaput. I also have a sizable crack in the bezel. :[
Any idea what type of oil it is that is leaking out? Should it be collected and disposed properly like engine oil?
I'd probably go and replace all those components: heater core, evap. core, and accumulator. Need A/C in the summer here - 110F easily.
gdstock, thanks for that link. You probably posted about your other parts too, so I'll go lookie around.
Edit: All I found was this post of yours haha: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2775290-post6975.html
Yeah, the super-fragil-istic dash is about 60% kaput. I also have a sizable crack in the bezel. :[
Any idea what type of oil it is that is leaking out? Should it be collected and disposed properly like engine oil?
I'd probably go and replace all those components: heater core, evap. core, and accumulator. Need A/C in the summer here - 110F easily.
gdstock, thanks for that link. You probably posted about your other parts too, so I'll go lookie around.
Edit: All I found was this post of yours haha: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2775290-post6975.html
Last edited by Wh1t3NuKle; 05-07-2012 at 11:29 AM.
#5
You need one of these to fix your blend door motor issue most likely. http://www.heatertreater.net/index.html as far as the orifice goes, that requires replacing that whole line on a 2000. And the type of oil is SP-20 PAG.
#7
If you have any refrigerant left, the oilk will come out when teh refrigerant is removed. If not, the oil is not an issue. When you recharge the system, make sure you add oil or the oil is already in the refrigerant.
It is a special refrigerant rated compressor oil, available at FLAPS for far too mcuh money,as is the refrigerant. Make sure you cahrge through the low pressure side (by drier) and not the high side.
It is a special refrigerant rated compressor oil, available at FLAPS for far too mcuh money,as is the refrigerant. Make sure you cahrge through the low pressure side (by drier) and not the high side.
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#8
You need one of these to fix your blend door motor issue most likely. http://www.heatertreater.net/index.html as far as the orifice goes, that requires replacing that whole line on a 2000. And the type of oil is SP-20 PAG.
If you have any refrigerant left, the oilk will come out when teh refrigerant is removed. If not, the oil is not an issue. When you recharge the system, make sure you add oil or the oil is already in the refrigerant.
It is a special refrigerant rated compressor oil, available at FLAPS for far too mcuh money,as is the refrigerant. Make sure you cahrge through the low pressure side (by drier) and not the high side.
It is a special refrigerant rated compressor oil, available at FLAPS for far too mcuh money,as is the refrigerant. Make sure you cahrge through the low pressure side (by drier) and not the high side.
Roger that. I saw your post with the pictures. Thanks
#9
There is an orifice tube IN the high pressure a/c line, that limits flow. as the refrigerant passes thru it, it goes from high pressure, to low, shedding energy, thus, cooling off tremendously, as it enters the evap core. If the orifice tube gets clogged, a/c efficiency suffers. On some, you can replace JUST the tube, on others, you have to replace the entire line.....
#10
Replaced
Ok, well I don't have the schmancy freon evacuator and recharging setup like Master Gdstock-inator, so I took the beast in to get a quote on just replacing the accumulator.
Opened the hood up and as we were talking, the accumulator just started foaming at the mouth. Freon and PAG just coming right out and felt like it was just gonna blooow, so we shut the hood. At this point, we had do idea how much might have been lost. So, not having the necessary tools nor the time to do this....I caved and had them do it.
All done just short of a couple bills.
$30 for the accumulator
$60 for evac/recharge
$20 for freon @$40/lb, lost 0.5 lbs.
$10 for PAG
$90 labor
Foaming puddle on the ground before starting to capture with a cup.
The pin hole
The AL replacement
So this should give anyone out there looking at this some idea of the cost.
ps. My fan clutch is broke dead. fortunately it was/is going to be replaced with the e-fan setup. sheesh
Opened the hood up and as we were talking, the accumulator just started foaming at the mouth. Freon and PAG just coming right out and felt like it was just gonna blooow, so we shut the hood. At this point, we had do idea how much might have been lost. So, not having the necessary tools nor the time to do this....I caved and had them do it.
All done just short of a couple bills.
$30 for the accumulator
$60 for evac/recharge
$20 for freon @$40/lb, lost 0.5 lbs.
$10 for PAG
$90 labor
Foaming puddle on the ground before starting to capture with a cup.
The pin hole
The AL replacement
So this should give anyone out there looking at this some idea of the cost.
ps. My fan clutch is broke dead. fortunately it was/is going to be replaced with the e-fan setup. sheesh