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If you have the stock fuel sending unit do you mind tell me what the ohmz is. I did a 5.3L LSX swap in my truck and that is the last gauge I am missing
If you have the stock fuel sending unit do you mind tell me what the ohmz is. I did a 5.3L LSX swap in my truck and that is the last gauge I am missing
Oh man. If you had asked on Friday I could have helped as the sending unit was on the bench for the last couple of weeks.
It and the tank are now back in the truck.
I should be able to get an empty reading for you since it is very empty.
Let me know if that helps.
If you have the stock fuel sending unit do you mind tell me what the ohmz is. I did a 5.3L LSX swap in my truck and that is the last gauge I am missing
So a 240 ohmz to 33 ohmz autometer gauge should work. Its the closest one they have
What have you done with the gauges?
Here is what I did last week on my 99 Dakota.
Its been a couple of years with the gauges stuck to a gauge holder on top of the dash and no speedo or tach.
I finally got fed up with it and tore into the stock dash.
Made a new back panel from 1/4" black ABS.
Drilled holes were the turn signals, high beam and park brake warning lights go and laid the old dash face over the new panel. Put LED's in behind the warning light holes and they work really well.
What have you done with the gauges?
Here is what I did last week on my 99 Dakota.
Its been a couple of years with the gauges stuck to a gauge holder on top of the dash and no speedo or tach.
I finally got fed up with it and tore into the stock dash.
Made a new back panel from 1/4" black ABS.
Drilled holes were the turn signals, high beam and park brake warning lights go and laid the old dash face over the new panel. Put LED's in behind the warning light holes and they work really well.
That's on your dually? Looks fantastic. Almost stock in a race sorta way.
Been busy the last week building engine and front diff mounts.
My 2" leveling spacers arrived and I should replace the front struts while I'm in there I suppose.
Looks like the Rancho ones are the way to go? since I will have a bit more weight up front and need the stiffer strut.
I dont think the Cummins weights that much more if any compared to the 4.7 as I'm only 1 inch lower in the front than the rear of the truck which is about stock?
I still have the rad, intercooler and front body parts to bolt back on but they should not bring it down that much. I have the front diff sitting so the axles are running slightly uphill so when the leveling spacers go in, the axles should be level or down a bit at the wheel ends.
Had to chop a LOT out of the Cummins oil pan to get it over the steering rack and front diff.
Hopefully a remote oil filter and cooler will make up the difference.
While the front diff is out I pulled the cover and it all looks good inside so the cover went back on and its full or Royal Purple. Man that stuff is expensive. The NV4500 trans took 5 L of it and a couple more for the diff was almost $120!
Waiting on a new pan gasket and then the engine goes back in for the last time!!!
Its been in and out about 20 times to check for clearances and mount locations.
Its nice that the upper and lower rad supports come out and you can just walk right into the engine bay. Never worked on anything so convenient before.
Hoping to have it back on the road by the end of March for some test hauling before heading across Canada this summer dragging my little 5th wheel.
Last edited by EVguy; Nov 7, 2020 at 11:06 AM.
Reason: added pic
