3rd Gen Dakota 2005 - 2011 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 3rd Gen Dakota.

4.7 2008 Dakota oil change questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-24-2009, 07:50 PM
Vortechtral's Avatar
Vortechtral
Vortechtral is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default 4.7 2008 Dakota oil change questions

Hey, as you may have noticed, im new here, an the place looks good.

So I have the time atm to change my own oil, but I need to know some questions. As the service manual cannot be downloaded at this time (server problems I presume?) I resort to asking.

My brother did his 04 F350 the other week and found out the oil filter cap needed to be torqued to 19fp, and the oil pan bolt was 19-24fp. Ive done some ssearching on google, and damn its hard to find any real info on these trucks. So may someone shed a bit of light on this please? Ive never done an oil change before, but after watching my brother, it seemed very easy. As long as its much the same as the ford, im sure it will all be fine and dandy!

Any and ALL info is greatly appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 07-24-2009, 09:42 PM
Altair's Avatar
Altair
Altair is offline
Dak attack!
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Turn down the heat please
Posts: 11,333
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Welcome to the forum! Personally I have always used the 1/4 turn method on the oil filter: spin it on till you start getting some resistance, then go 1/4 turn more. Don't forget to put a bead of new oil on the gasket with your finger before you put it on. I've never had a problem with it on any vehicle. Drain plug just get it decently tight, no need to reef on it like a madman.
 
  #3  
Old 07-25-2009, 12:38 PM
SilverGhost1's Avatar
SilverGhost1
SilverGhost1 is offline
All Star
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 851
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Welcome to DF. And Altair is right. Changing the oil in our trucks couldn't be easier. Just snug fit on the pan bolt and 1/4-1/2 turn on the filter. Done!
 
  #4  
Old 06-16-2010, 06:08 PM
MauiWowwee's Avatar
MauiWowwee
MauiWowwee is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I know this topic is a year old but I don't frequent here too often. Is there a need to replace the washer on the oil pan bolt? I'm going to start changing my own oil just to save a few bucks.
 
  #6  
Old 06-16-2010, 07:22 PM
MonkeyWrench4000's Avatar
MonkeyWrench4000
MonkeyWrench4000 is offline
Record Breaker
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,513
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

The original poster shouldnt be changing his own oil lol....

Torquing an oil filter to a specific spec? get the f*ck out of here lol.
 
  #7  
Old 06-16-2010, 10:48 PM
MrCrash's Avatar
MrCrash
MrCrash is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: SCS, MI
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hey now! Some of us just getting into DIY repairs and maintenance worry about such things until we learn better.
 
  #8  
Old 06-16-2010, 11:14 PM
MonkeyWrench4000's Avatar
MonkeyWrench4000
MonkeyWrench4000 is offline
Record Breaker
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,513
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Yeah...I guess that was a little harsh. I was just fooling around.

Everyone should know how to do it after all.
 
  #9  
Old 06-16-2010, 11:21 PM
MrCrash's Avatar
MrCrash
MrCrash is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: SCS, MI
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

LOL! No worries. I forgot the smiley I know where this guy is coming from. When I installed my lift, I think I torqued every single nut and bolt multiple times until I was 110% satisfied I followed the instructions exactly. If it called for 47.19875 lb/ft, and I torqued it to 47.19876 lb/ft, I re-torqued it
 
  #10  
Old 06-17-2010, 12:35 AM
rengnath's Avatar
rengnath
rengnath is offline
Champion
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Greenfield, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,686
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I was nervous about my first oil change, but once you get the hang of it, theres nothing easier. And if you make any mistakes, theres nothing messier either. The first time changing oil by myself, I jacked the front of the truck up and put the pan directly underneath the drain plug, except when I pulled the plug out all the oil shot farther back hitting the floor. Talk about a mess.

But my recommendation; remove the filter while on a level surface, and be very careful not to spill when pulling it down or it goes all over the frame. And it helps to let the engine sit for a while so that there is no oil pressure, otherwise it will just keep dripping oil out. For draining the pan, I jack my truck up till the tires are off the ground and throw the stands underneath. I take a half-gallon milk container and cut off the top and remove the cap. I loosen the plug with the wrench, and then I put the milk container (acting as a funnel) between the frame and the drain plug. I wedge my fingers in there and pull the plug out, and then all the oil goes through the milk container, and in to the pan instead of dripping all down the frame support. Just my way of doing it, and sorry if it doesnt make sense.

For the filter, I use a K&N which uses a 1" nut. I fill the filter with new oil about 3/4ths the way, and then use my finger to oil up the gasket. I screw it on hand tight (And while threading it, the filter should spin easily and freely. If it takes alot to screw it in to place, theres a problem) I then take my 1" wrench and give it a good snug. Its tricky getting a 1" wrench up there, so to over tighten it would take a lot of effort. I also have an 05, so it may be different for the 08s.
 


Quick Reply: 4.7 2008 Dakota oil change questions



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:05 AM.