CAMSWAP write up. DIY!
#1
05-01-2010, 12:05 PM
CAMSWAP write up. DIY!
Bear with me, this is prone to a lot of edits cuz I forget a lot. 
A: Have tools, a good light, a helper is a must. Taking our time and with breaks and eating it took us 10 hours, so it is like a 6-7 hour project. Have an extend-able magnet we used that the most. You need a torque wrench for dialing in the cams once they are in. You do NOT need anything special for lash caps, more on that later. You do need a cam wedge, I forget the technical name.
B: I pretty much covered the bases in A, so strap in.
You will need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, remove the the fuel injector clips/wiring and pull your spark plug coils. I also recommend removing the serpentine belt. Getting the valve covers off is easy, undo the screws! It reveals a beautiful sight.
2010x112.jpg
You need to first put the cams into the neutral position. You do this by turning the crank (clockwise) until you see the marks for TDC line up on the timing chain cover and both V8 markings on the cam sprokets are at the 12 o'clock position.
Billy will have to guide you through this some more. The top of the cam sprocket has a v8 mark. At top dead center for piston number 1 (TDC) both V8 marking are positioned at the 12 o'clock position. Mark where the v8 in relation to the timing chain with chalk or a sharpie might work... this is done so that while you are working on the cams and the sprocket slips ouf of the chain, you know where it is supposed to be put back. You can make out the v8 in this picture, and 90* from it is the L and R marking on either side, you can see the L here.
2010x113.jpg
^This notch is very important, it is where the camshaft lines up with the gear, and it's what you use to balance them (right side 15* left 45*). Remeber the left cam is 15 degrees from the netrual position as the right cam is 45 degrees from neutral.
Now insert the wedge down in the chain to keep it stable while you work on it. Remeber to make it snug, not too tight or you will run the risk of the tensioner becomes damaged.
2010x110.jpg
While loosening the sprocket bolt, have your assistanct hold the crank still with a breaker bar or large socket. The sprocket and chain will actually be loosened and come off the camshaft notch, safely lean it away from the cam. To do this unscrew the bolt in the center of the gear.
2010x114.jpg
You will notice in one of the above pictures that there are cam shaft bearing cap bolted down on top of the cam shaft, holding it in place. This part takes patience and caution. Unscrew the bolts a half turn at a time, and alternate which cap you loosen each time, IE: center, front, back, number 2, number 4, repeat. This is relieve the pressure EVENLY across the camshaft. Some screws you will be able to loosen by hand while other are tight... do NOT let this fool you! once you loosen some other bearing caps the pressure will even out and they will become tight again. So follow those steps until all the screws are loose. Remember the cams are not in the neutral position so you want to turn slowly to keep them violently turning the 15 and 45 degrees to neutral. Slow is the key to this part of the evolution.
I mentioned number 2 and 4 bearing caps, they are all numbered and have an arrow facing you so you know where to put them back in. But just to be safe line them up...
2010x116.jpg
Once they are loosened the camshaft will turn that 15/45 degrees and center itself. CAREFULLY remove the camshaft and keep this in mind, the rockers are NOT screwed in and they will fall off if you bump them the wrong way. Remeber one end of the rocker sit on the valve stem as the other sits on the lash adjuster.
2010x115.jpg
Once your cam is out take off those rockers to add lashcaps. Using assemply lube, grease up the lash caps and put them and the head of each rocker (8 on each side). They slip right over the exposed circle on the rocker. Take off one rocker at a time so you don't lose their place.
2010x122.jpg
2010x117.jpg
Once those cams are exposed, make sure to keep all loose screws/parts CLEAR of that area. Things can go in there and find their way into your heads before you know it.
Reinstallation
First, note that the left and right cam shafts are a different length. Thoroughly coat both cams with assembly lube as well as your lash caps. Place the lash caps on the rocker arm and then onto the valve stem. Use alot of assembly lube to keep the lash caps in place while you install the new cams.
Here is the new cams in after a thorough lubing
2010x124.jpg
Position the camshaft back into the neutral postion insuring the lobes and jouranals are in alignment with the rocker arms. Next install the bearing caps back into the proper order. During installation use 1/2 turns starting from cap #3 and working out alternating the tightning sequence. Once all the bearing caps are tightened, you will need to torque them to 100 inch pounds each.
Have your partner use a pipe wrench and turn the cams from the neutral position back into the proper alignment with the cam sprocket. Once lighned up, the sprocked should slip back onlto the camshaft with the notch in the original position. Now you can add the sprocket bolt, but I would tighten it to spec until both camshafts are installed. Once both camshaft are installed torque the sprocket bolts to 90 foot lbs. Make sure to remove the wedge once things are tightened.
Both installed
2010x123.jpg
Make a final check insuring everything looks correct, especially rockers since they have a tendance to turn sideways if you are not paying attention, lol.
Also, do not fret if your engine bay does not look like this... it is slightly...modified compared to ours.
Reinstall valve covers, spark plugs, coils, fuel injection wiring, serpentine belt and finally reconnect the battery.
If the install is correct, your engine will run smooth on first start up. If it clicks or idles rough, the installiation is not correct.
A: Have tools, a good light, a helper is a must. Taking our time and with breaks and eating it took us 10 hours, so it is like a 6-7 hour project. Have an extend-able magnet we used that the most. You need a torque wrench for dialing in the cams once they are in. You do NOT need anything special for lash caps, more on that later. You do need a cam wedge, I forget the technical name.
B: I pretty much covered the bases in A, so strap in.
You will need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, remove the the fuel injector clips/wiring and pull your spark plug coils. I also recommend removing the serpentine belt. Getting the valve covers off is easy, undo the screws! It reveals a beautiful sight.
2010x112.jpg
You need to first put the cams into the neutral position. You do this by turning the crank (clockwise) until you see the marks for TDC line up on the timing chain cover and both V8 markings on the cam sprokets are at the 12 o'clock position.
Billy will have to guide you through this some more. The top of the cam sprocket has a v8 mark. At top dead center for piston number 1 (TDC) both V8 marking are positioned at the 12 o'clock position. Mark where the v8 in relation to the timing chain with chalk or a sharpie might work... this is done so that while you are working on the cams and the sprocket slips ouf of the chain, you know where it is supposed to be put back. You can make out the v8 in this picture, and 90* from it is the L and R marking on either side, you can see the L here.
2010x113.jpg
^This notch is very important, it is where the camshaft lines up with the gear, and it's what you use to balance them (right side 15* left 45*). Remeber the left cam is 15 degrees from the netrual position as the right cam is 45 degrees from neutral.
Now insert the wedge down in the chain to keep it stable while you work on it. Remeber to make it snug, not too tight or you will run the risk of the tensioner becomes damaged.
2010x110.jpg
While loosening the sprocket bolt, have your assistanct hold the crank still with a breaker bar or large socket. The sprocket and chain will actually be loosened and come off the camshaft notch, safely lean it away from the cam. To do this unscrew the bolt in the center of the gear.
2010x114.jpg
You will notice in one of the above pictures that there are cam shaft bearing cap bolted down on top of the cam shaft, holding it in place. This part takes patience and caution. Unscrew the bolts a half turn at a time, and alternate which cap you loosen each time, IE: center, front, back, number 2, number 4, repeat. This is relieve the pressure EVENLY across the camshaft. Some screws you will be able to loosen by hand while other are tight... do NOT let this fool you! once you loosen some other bearing caps the pressure will even out and they will become tight again. So follow those steps until all the screws are loose. Remember the cams are not in the neutral position so you want to turn slowly to keep them violently turning the 15 and 45 degrees to neutral. Slow is the key to this part of the evolution.
I mentioned number 2 and 4 bearing caps, they are all numbered and have an arrow facing you so you know where to put them back in. But just to be safe line them up...
2010x116.jpg
Once they are loosened the camshaft will turn that 15/45 degrees and center itself. CAREFULLY remove the camshaft and keep this in mind, the rockers are NOT screwed in and they will fall off if you bump them the wrong way. Remeber one end of the rocker sit on the valve stem as the other sits on the lash adjuster.
2010x115.jpg
Once your cam is out take off those rockers to add lashcaps. Using assemply lube, grease up the lash caps and put them and the head of each rocker (8 on each side). They slip right over the exposed circle on the rocker. Take off one rocker at a time so you don't lose their place.
2010x122.jpg
2010x117.jpg
Once those cams are exposed, make sure to keep all loose screws/parts CLEAR of that area. Things can go in there and find their way into your heads before you know it.
Reinstallation
First, note that the left and right cam shafts are a different length. Thoroughly coat both cams with assembly lube as well as your lash caps. Place the lash caps on the rocker arm and then onto the valve stem. Use alot of assembly lube to keep the lash caps in place while you install the new cams.
Here is the new cams in after a thorough lubing
2010x124.jpg
Position the camshaft back into the neutral postion insuring the lobes and jouranals are in alignment with the rocker arms. Next install the bearing caps back into the proper order. During installation use 1/2 turns starting from cap #3 and working out alternating the tightning sequence. Once all the bearing caps are tightened, you will need to torque them to 100 inch pounds each.
Have your partner use a pipe wrench and turn the cams from the neutral position back into the proper alignment with the cam sprocket. Once lighned up, the sprocked should slip back onlto the camshaft with the notch in the original position. Now you can add the sprocket bolt, but I would tighten it to spec until both camshafts are installed. Once both camshaft are installed torque the sprocket bolts to 90 foot lbs. Make sure to remove the wedge once things are tightened.
Both installed
2010x123.jpg
Make a final check insuring everything looks correct, especially rockers since they have a tendance to turn sideways if you are not paying attention, lol.
Also, do not fret if your engine bay does not look like this... it is slightly...modified compared to ours.
Reinstall valve covers, spark plugs, coils, fuel injection wiring, serpentine belt and finally reconnect the battery.
If the install is correct, your engine will run smooth on first start up. If it clicks or idles rough, the installiation is not correct.
Last edited by trucky; 05-01-2010 at 09:07 PM.
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05-01-2010, 10:58 PM
Thanks man, just FYI the spelling errors were Billy. Sentence structure the issues is was me.