Don't believe everything you read on the interweeb, ESPECIALLY from sites trying to sell you something.

Your AFR will NOT, EVER, stay "nailed at 14.75:1 AFR", while running.

ECMs and PCMs will richen and lean out the mixture watching the switch point of the NBO2 sensor switch. If you look at the output of a NBO2 (Narrow Band O2) sensor you will see it is only accurate from about 14.4 to 15.1:1 or so, this is why they are considered "switches" in the tuning world, and is why WBO2 (Wide Band O2) sensors are recommended for proper tuning.

ECMs and PCMs can only compensate so much, they don't have the ability to infinatly adjust the injector pulse width. If the compensation has to go beyond a certain point this is when a CEL pops up and you will have a code for something.

Also if the OEM Dodge PCM is anything like the other PCMs/ECMs I deal with, at WOT, the PCM will revert to a maximum compensation value that would learned as the vehicle is driven, but not beyond a predetermined maximum compensation which would negate this resistor trick, because no extra fuel would be added from this learned value, and in actuality would likely lean out the mixture in this case.

If you don't believe me about the AFR swinging while driving, just hook up one of those NBO2 AFR "gauges", you will see that the voltage on the NBO2 sensor output swings, quite a bit, not staying steady at stoich, indicating a swinging mixture.

 

I just installed the power wire DIY on my truck.. I am going to run a couple tanks with the resistor and a couple with out to see if there is a difference. I am going to try and keep my driving the same throughout all these tests. I know weather and what not will effect it. But I actually wanna see if it lives up to its 1-2mpg increase (I assume this is per gallon, not per tank). I am very doubtful as the theory of making the engine run richer all the time saves gas.

 

it don't make no nevermind fellas...if you don't like it, don't do it. Simple as that. For $2 I felt it was worth a shot to see if it actually does anything.

 

yeah idk how they claim that but hey worth a shot! but i think most people buy it for the WOT extra power not the 1-2mpg driving like a grandma down hill with the wind pushing it while its in neutral!

 

could you repost pics i would love to try this just dont quite get it

 

I deleted those pics off the server....forever, because of the uproar...and the fact I took it off because I did not notice ANY difference with it...I can take some pics of the power wire itself, I still have it....it just goes inline with the IAT sensor.

 

Weedahoe made a very good write up and video in the G3 Ram section. Check it out.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...powerwire.html

Here is the DIY video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUjAI9ZGXkY

 

so all ya do is say cut out 6 inches out of one of your air intake sensor wires and pop one of these on easy as that thanks for the vid it makes more sense now

 

I would not cut out 6 inches of the wire. I just cut it in half, strip the ends and install the resistor in series with it. You might want to remove it sometime so you don't want a 6" gap in your wire if you do ever remove it.

 

ive never done this to a car/ truck but i did put x14ied in my sportster
fattens the mix from 14.7 to 14.0...its resistors in the O2 wire though not the incoming air but the return reading...takes about 30mi for the ecm to adjust acordingly

maybe we can make something like this for our trucks

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/h...olt_divide.htm

if we only mess with the front o2 sensors the rears will still read true for emissions purposes

i think i read that the resistors to use are in the 1megaohm range for a vtwin sportster

might heat up some catalytic converters in the process though