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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:04 PM
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i'm painting Eyelids on my truck tomorrow and need advice/help...what grit sand paper do i need and what exactly is step by step...i know take out the headlight that parts obvious...but after that then what? sand with what grit/paint then wet sand? how many coats of NightShade do i do on each? so stuff like that and Thanks in ADVANCE and sorry for the late notice!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:09 PM
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read this. ruger just did his and did nothing but clean the light housings. Use as many coats of night shade as you want. one coat, light still shines through, two a little less, three hardly any...you might want to do them body color instead of using nightshade if you dont want light shining through.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...t-paint-3.html
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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light will only shine through when the lights are on right? and with nightshade can i get it dark enough to be like pitch black!?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by WTEBOY703
light will only shine through when the lights are on right? and with nightshade can i get it dark enough to be like pitch black!?
the more coats the darker it gets. after 6-7 coats it will be pretty damn dark.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:31 PM
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and i'm going with the whole black and silver theme...can't wait to put on hood viper decal and get the black grill and replace the chrome! will be good lookin truck when the shackels are on and all of this is done to it!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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I would tape off the area you want painted. I would find a higher quality finishers tape for this. Thinner the better.

I would at least wet sand with at least 600 to 1500 (water proof paper, water, and some dawn soap)

Clean the surface and dry with some type of alcohol. (rubbing or denatured)

Place spray can in a bucket of HOT water (it helps with the spray flow)

Spray a light coat of color (just get a even coat, do not try and do this in one pass)
I would go for at least 3.

Since the paint will not be water base, you will not need to sand between coats unless you have junk in the finish.

Then just add your clear coat over the area in the same 3 steps first coat should be light!

Make sure your last coat of color is not sanded or you will see the sand lines through the clear.

Once the clear coat has dried the recommended time, wet sand with 1500 to 2000, the clear very softly just to unshine the surface. Then get some scratch removing compound and buff the crap out of it.

Same steps in my wood bezel to silver. (color prep and painting at the end of my thread).

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...-painting.html
 

Last edited by Eimer123; Jan 3, 2011 at 09:50 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:59 PM
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If you nightshade the eyelids go as dark as you want it dosent hurt the light output(just the eye lids not the whole light!!!). If your nightshade your tail lights hang them from something and make sure the indented part of the light is up because paint likes to pool in that part (i found out the hard way). Do not go more than three coats on the tails. If you want black eye lids just buy black paint because nightshade is hard to paint with because its very thin and runny. For prep i just cleaned and painted it came out perfect w/o sanding. I hope this helps and good luck. P.S. dont forget pics because everyone knows dakotaraven will post this.


Hahahaha jk
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 10:35 PM
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Travis used nightshade on his.


I painted mine.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Eimer123
I would tape off the area you want painted. I would find a higher quality finishers tape for this. Thinner the better.

I would at least wet sand with at least 600 to 1500 (water proof paper, water, and some dawn soap)

Clean the surface and dry with some type of alcohol. (rubbing or denatured)

Place spray can in a bucket of HOT water (it helps with the spray flow)

Spray a light coat of color (just get a even coat, do not try and do this in one pass)
I would go for at least 3.

Since the paint will not be water base, you will not need to sand between coats unless you have junk in the finish.

Then just add your clear coat over the area in the same 3 steps first coat should be light!

Make sure your last coat of color is not sanded or you will see the sand lines through the clear.

Once the clear coat has dried the recommended time, wet sand with 1500 to 2000, the clear very softly just to unshine the surface. Then get some scratch removing compound and buff the crap out of it.

Same steps in my wood bezel to silver. (color prep and painting at the end of my thread).
d@mn thats a lot of work. i do not have the patience for all that....i think I'll try rugers way first....it messes up, I'll go from there. what your talking about takes lots of practice and time to get it right, imo.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jkeaton
d@mn thats a lot of work. i do not have the patience for all that....i think I'll try rugers way first....it messes up, I'll go from there. what your talking about takes lots of practice and time to get it right, imo.
Dont be skimpy on the amount of coats you put on i did 3 with duplicolor color match and some light comes throught at night w/ headlight on. During the day its solid silver. I would do 4 to 6 coats if you dont want light to come through. Go very light on the first coat because it will run on the plastic.
 

Last edited by ruger226; Jan 3, 2011 at 11:10 PM.
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