lift for 2005 dodge dakota
#22
he said not to mention the company name yet so they don't get swamped in emails and calls just yet...but I guess it should give another 4 inches, so maybe its like 14...Im not sure. But he said its not done by using longer control arms, it uses the stock lower and replaces the upper, putting a more extreme angle on the control arms but the upper has a ball joint that can handle it. he said it rides smooth as can be.
I figure aftery they put the 4" control arm drop kit on I will have them add the long travel and I will set it at 3" so it will give me 6" in the front (I lost an inch from the weight of my bumper and winch) and 4" in the rear which should level it out.
I'm pretty excited, especially since he knocked off several hundred if I could recruit some buyers and post pics of my truck with it all on there.
I figure aftery they put the 4" control arm drop kit on I will have them add the long travel and I will set it at 3" so it will give me 6" in the front (I lost an inch from the weight of my bumper and winch) and 4" in the rear which should level it out.
I'm pretty excited, especially since he knocked off several hundred if I could recruit some buyers and post pics of my truck with it all on there.
#23
he said not to mention the company name yet so they don't get swamped in emails and calls just yet...but I guess it should give another 4 inches, so maybe its like 14...Im not sure. But he said its not done by using longer control arms, it uses the stock lower and replaces the upper, putting a more extreme angle on the control arms but the upper has a ball joint that can handle it. he said it rides smooth as can be.
I figure aftery they put the 4" control arm drop kit on I will have them add the long travel and I will set it at 3" so it will give me 6" in the front (I lost an inch from the weight of my bumper and winch) and 4" in the rear which should level it out.
I'm pretty excited, especially since he knocked off several hundred if I could recruit some buyers and post pics of my truck with it all on there.
I figure aftery they put the 4" control arm drop kit on I will have them add the long travel and I will set it at 3" so it will give me 6" in the front (I lost an inch from the weight of my bumper and winch) and 4" in the rear which should level it out.
I'm pretty excited, especially since he knocked off several hundred if I could recruit some buyers and post pics of my truck with it all on there.
#24
#25
#26
#29
yes. its as easy as that. the cv's on the diff side get replaced with these. did you read the article i posted? the 930 cvs take extreme angles and ALSO makeup for driveshaft plunge because they can also go in and out
here
heres a quote straight from the article...
"Like the outer CV joint, the lower A-arm has no trouble withstanding the demands of a long-travel suspension, but the upper A-arm's geometric disadvantage is similar to that of the inner CV joint -- not enough arm length creates too much angle through the suspension arc. As suspension travel is increased, the angle of the ball joint becomes so acute when the suspension is compressed that the ball joint is taxed severely. To retain the stock A-arm length, KORE designed a stout billet aluminum upper control arm with a unique, rebuildable high-angle ball joint that is asymmetrical, featuring more throw in the outward direction the ball joint moves when the shock is extended and less throw in the opposite direction when the suspension is compressed."
"The outboard CV, which goes through the spindle on the steering side of each half shaft isn't the problem. It can handle up to 30 degrees of motion as the suspension swings through its arc. The inboard side, however, is only good for about 16 degrees -- not nearly enough to handle the demands of a long-travel system"
here
heres a quote straight from the article...
"Like the outer CV joint, the lower A-arm has no trouble withstanding the demands of a long-travel suspension, but the upper A-arm's geometric disadvantage is similar to that of the inner CV joint -- not enough arm length creates too much angle through the suspension arc. As suspension travel is increased, the angle of the ball joint becomes so acute when the suspension is compressed that the ball joint is taxed severely. To retain the stock A-arm length, KORE designed a stout billet aluminum upper control arm with a unique, rebuildable high-angle ball joint that is asymmetrical, featuring more throw in the outward direction the ball joint moves when the shock is extended and less throw in the opposite direction when the suspension is compressed."
"The outboard CV, which goes through the spindle on the steering side of each half shaft isn't the problem. It can handle up to 30 degrees of motion as the suspension swings through its arc. The inboard side, however, is only good for about 16 degrees -- not nearly enough to handle the demands of a long-travel system"
Last edited by projektdirtfab; 02-11-2011 at 08:16 PM.