if they are steel they WILL be an issue, in 80 k miles

 

J/k I would try to get some coin out of the motor-only 36,000 mi.

I am confused about whether the 6mt will jibe with the 5.7 ecu/PCM or whatever. Kind of a deal breaker if the tranny won't work.

 

You should be fine, since you can just keep your original 4.7 pcm. The engines from automatics are a lot easier to find, so plan on swapping the flexplate for a flywheel.

But, I'm also wondering if you could get an engine and trans from a hemi HD truck. The 2500 came with a manual from 03 to 09, an NV4500 was used up to 07 and 08-09 got a G56.

 

That would be nice. Ideally it would be no holds barred, blown 6.4, 1 ton, w/ a bullet proof auto. I m trying to work with what I got. I think I am still ahead to swap a hemi rather than build up the 4.7--not plug and play--but not ridiculous. Keeping the tranny will prob help my budget and keep it simpler. I don't want to worry about the t-case and mounts for the beefier manuals. The g238 should handle the xtra and I will be happy with 100 ponies. Also I don't have that power sapping auto.

I m nervous about that oil pan though. Wish I could solid axle swap it at the same time.

I m hoping I can keep it under 5k reasonably.

 

An SAS has been done before, I think if you got the engine for a good price, it came with everything, and ya knew what else you needed for an SAS conversion, you might just be able to squeeze it all in under 5k if you are able to do all the work yourself. But good axles can be pricey these days, so I dunno.

As far as the oil pan, if you do an SAS, you won't need to mod it at all, because ideally you'll give yourself 3-4 inches or more of lift in the front at the same time.

But, if you don't end up doing the axle, then (right off the top of my head) a good way to do it is to drop the motor in with the oil pan on, put a couple bolts in the trans to snug it up, and line up the engine mounts, throw a bolt in each of those, then with a grinder or dremel slowly remove oil pan material until you can get the diff to bolt to the isolators, then add another 1/2" of clearance on that.

Of course, make sure the oil is completely drained and even put something across the windage tray behind the oil pan to keep debris away from the crank. Then you can just make something out of card board or plastic to fill in the hole, and measure about how much longer your pickup tube will need to be. Take both to a welder and have them fab it up, shouldn't cost much, but they will need to know how to weld thin metal without warping it.

 

I'm with you about the lift clearing the pan. I doubt I'll b doing both at the same time. Swapping axles would mean gettin strong stuff w/ lockers so...

I will just weld the pan myself if it is steel. I can weld aluminum but it always leaks. Thanks for the support. Out of curiosity, how much more power does the g238 put down than the power sucker 545fe or whatever?

 

Just for having a manual, you can count on 10 to 15 percent more power. A transmission like the T56 viper/corvette trans has seen as little as 12% loss under crank ratings. If I estimated mine, being at 295 hp now, I might see as much around 330 with a manual. With stock hemi ratings seen as low as 245hp with the 545rfe, you could see 290 to the wheels with the getrag.

 

getrag ftw... but it doesnt like abuse... mine sounds like a coffee grinder after 40k miles of fun.

 

I am cautious there too, but I did see a jeep aftermarket co. doing hemi swaps and they had a g238 option as well as auto, even with the bigger hemis. They offered warrantees as well.

 

Nothing like a 4000 rpm launch with a posi...