Just grinding and "sealing" isn't always a guarantee that you've removed the rust issue. The rust needs to be pacified before it & exposed steel surfaces can be sealed to actually stop the rust's progress. There are various things that can be used to pacify the rust (convert iron oxide into a benign & hard surfaced compound). Many of these chemicals that will react with rust this way are included in other things like paint (including POR15 and other less expensive ones), fender liners, undercoating tars and oils. Many of the so-called rust paints don't have enough of the pacifier in them to completely react with any significant amount of rust before the paint sets & the pacification stops - that's why I like an application that won't dry and also displaces water to keep it from feeding the problem. If I'm treating an area that has a reasonable amount of rust and its on a visible surface, I'll grind the area smooth to see the extent & if it's still solid, I'll treat the whole area with something like phosphoric acid (or a metal prep solution that contains a good amount of pacifier - POR has a product that works fairly well, but is more expensive), then seal it with a product that also contains a pacifier. When this has "cured", I'll prep the area in a normal manner for painting & then paint.

 

I have paint starting to bubble and crack on my wheel wells. I even asked when I bought the truck how dodge could just bend the sheet metal like that, with no sealant present. In Canada, water mixed with salt would seep into that fold and start rusting without any effort.

I was told not to worry, they had sprayed it. Sure sure. Both my rear wheel wells are showing the pain bubbles, exactly where the water salt from our winters would enter.

Someone said it earlier....BAD DESIGN.

 

I came here looking for a rust topic because I'm now a member of the club. My left rear has bubbles and local body shop quoted me $400 to sand,seal and paint the area. One good thing is I was rear ended HARD a few years ago and the RH side of the bed and tailgate and bumper are new.
Can someone tell me what the best brands of sealer are and where to find them and a spray wand? I have a compressor already. AND a source for rear wheel flares. My 05 is a silver quad cab.
Good thread for info.
I'm thinking dark thoughts about having someone with a delivery truck accidentally crunch that fender.

 

My 05 doesnt seem to show any signs of rust in the wheel wells (yet) is there anything i can do to prevent it or is it probably already started? I live in KS if that matters, plus I regularly wash and wax it, except for in the winter... I bought it used and it came from Texas

 

i felt and looked at the foam yesterday and it looks ok, no rotted parts yet. would soaking it with wd-40, chainsaw oil, or motor oil work to keep water out of the foam?

 

If I was to buy another truck I will be scrapping that foam out then using a rubber sealant in its place.

 

I inspected my truck early this spring and couldn't see any foam used on the bed - I can't think of why the manufacturer would use foam in this part of a truck. There is some in areas of the cab, but that's been common practice by most manufacturers for years. It's used for soundproofing and isn't open to the elements (until the outer skin rusts through).

 

The bed of the truck has multiple issues. The foam that holds water is #1, and then the pinch weld which holds water #2.

I am in decision mode on what I want to do about mine.

I will probably just start hacking out the bad parts and then start making my own parts to weld back in, and reseal the area appropriately.

 

Does anyone have a pic of what this foam looks like and or EXACTLY where they put it.

 

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I will see if I can get my phone up there when I get home. in the service manual they show the location also