Hello. After some extensive searching, I can't find a definitive answer to my question. My 06 Dakota has some terrible shake in the front end at highway speed. I can feel it in the steering wheel. Suspecting a cv joint, I took it to the shop for a road test. Turns out I was half right. Cv joint on the front driveshaft is trashed to the point that the boot is nearly gone and it is slinging grease onto the exhaust. Obviously the joint needs replaced. The shop says I need to replace the driveshaft itself. Really? I'm not sure what could be wrong with it. Is that typically the case, or is he trying to sell me stuff I don't need. Let me say I have no intention of having them do the work. I just need to know if I have to actually replace the shaft. I understand that if I do, I have the option of upgrading to one with u-joints on both ends. I also read about a forum member having a cracked transfer case due to the failure of a cv joint. Is that common? The shop didn't mention it, but the phone conversation was less than concise, as I could hear the receptionist asking the mechanic questions and then trying to tell me what he said. IT's entirely possible that it got lost in translation. Obviously, I will be checking for that. Just trying to get a better idea of what I'm up against. I've done a lot of front end work on my Dakota, but this will be my first rodeo with cv joints and driveshafts. Just seeking some advice. Hopefully my post isn't too difficult to follow. Thanks in advance.

 

I had this same problem but it was a bent rear drive shaft. it was not bent very much. my front drive shaft cv joint was also dried out but that was not my problem as I took it off to find out. the vibratrion caused my transfer case to crack and lose all the fluid 3 times. not fun to replace just the back case.

 

yuo can just replace the cv joint but not easy to replace. Easier to buy a used one at a junkyard

 

They're correct. You have to replace the whole shaft. And yes, you can have one made that uses a "normal" double-cardan style joint instead of the weak factory CV joint.

 

hey so there are the double u joint drive shafts, what about the CV axle half shafts for the IFS front, anyone know if they have cv type ones yet or we stuck with weak assed cv joints on the half shafts, I keep breaking the boots and the joints

 

You're pretty much stuck with the axle shafts you have. The OEM ones will last longer than the cheap Chinese ones, though.

 

I replaced one of mine, fairly simple. Hardest part is breaking the axle nut loose. My advise, keep the wheel on the ground when you take the nut off. You also have to take the spindle off, at least from the upper ball joint. This is what they are talking about if you did not know already. I spent like $60 for a new one from oreillys.

 

I had the same problem, failed cv joint on the rear of the front drive shaft.



As you can see in the picture this is what it started out as. It ended up blowing out while driving 70 on the highway and cracked the transfer case in two.



This is what it looked like after blowing out.

I ended up ordering the same CV joint here: http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/shop...32-ds-303.html

I also replaced the drive shaft with a new one while I had it all apart. I would recommend it. But not totally necessary.

The double u-joint shafts are pricy but you could also go that route: http://www.1aauto.com/1A/DriveshaftR...FRCmPAodqQcACg

It's actually a pretty pain free process to change the CV joint out. Just need some allen wrenches and a strong arm (they're in there with loc-tite). And maybe a pry bar of some sorts to jar the thing loose. The drive shaft on the other hand, you're gonna need some pneumatic tools for, and 2x4 to bind up the front axle. Don't forget a six pack of your favorite beverage. (for after of course )

It's better to get it fixed now than wait for the thing to fully fail. A new transfer case runs about $2000. The CV joint is about $120.

 

I spent all day under the truck yesterday. Wasn't too bad. Except those bolts at the u joint end gave me a hard time. My ingersoll rand impact wrench had difficulty spinning them off initially. Rusted and covered in blue thread locker. Spent a while trying to put the new driveshaft in and no dice. Napa gave me the wrong one. Too long. Apparently, it's for a 5 speed auto. So I'm giving it another go today. Also, anybody have a technique down for clearing the exhaust pipe? Do I need to put it in in 2 pieces?That's how I got the old one out. Just hoping to streamline the process a bit. Thanks

 

My bad...wrong driveshaft. I thought you meant the half shafts going to the wheels. Sorry.