E-FAN Taurus Fan and other 2 speed fan setup
#31
09-07-2013, 04:03 PM
So I have been looking for the part that would make things easiest for threading the 3/8npt to m14 adaptor. The bushing idea turned out not to work so well, as the vise ends up squishing it because it gets so thin, and its brass. Then it binds on the drill bit.
So I found a 1.5 inch fitting that was 3/8npt on both sides, I threaded it into a ballvalve and vised that instead so the fitting didn't squish. The ID of this fitting was already 1/2 inch, which is the right size for a m14x1.5 tap. Then I cut it in half and had two usable ones, but damaged one while removing it from the ball valve. Worked very well.
I don't need the test piece since I don't have a spare npt plug in my timing cover, so its up for grabs.
So I found a 1.5 inch fitting that was 3/8npt on both sides, I threaded it into a ballvalve and vised that instead so the fitting didn't squish. The ID of this fitting was already 1/2 inch, which is the right size for a m14x1.5 tap. Then I cut it in half and had two usable ones, but damaged one while removing it from the ball valve. Worked very well.
I don't need the test piece since I don't have a spare npt plug in my timing cover, so its up for grabs.
#32
09-08-2013, 03:15 PM
I've found a place that makes the particular one I made, but it's $22. It should be in a link in one of my first posts on this thread. After a very long while searching for this across the internet, that was the only one I found and it's custom made by an engine swap enthusiast group. So I wonder if retail versions even exist in the m14x1.5 to 3/8npt.
#33
09-08-2013, 08:08 PM
I've found a place that makes the particular one I made, but it's $22. It should be in a link in one of my first posts on this thread. After a very long while searching for this across the internet, that was the only one I found and it's custom made by an engine swap enthusiast group. So I wonder if retail versions even exist in the m14x1.5 to 3/8npt.
#34
09-08-2013, 08:24 PM
I agree with the last statement, already with mine, it takes a bit longer for the fluid to change the temp of the switch. It can peak to almost half on the needle then the fan kicks on with a fury and drops the temp nearly a 1/4 before leveling off and staying there for the whole trip, unless I'm flooring it up mountain passes, then it tends to climb higher.
It won't be as bad with a 4.7 though, with that spare 3/8 npt plug that it has. I'm still baffled as to why they didn't have a spare test spot on the hemi when they had one of the 4.7
It won't be as bad with a 4.7 though, with that spare 3/8 npt plug that it has. I'm still baffled as to why they didn't have a spare test spot on the hemi when they had one of the 4.7
#35
09-09-2013, 08:37 AM
To overcome the lag, I've found that the easiest approach is to make a small manifold of some type that will allow the switch end to be in, or very close to the fluid flow. For this purpose, here are some ideas (some of which I've used):
- You could take the design shown in a link I posted earlier (showing a T and 2 barbed-to-NPT ends) as a baseline and add a larger T to give more exposure for the switch end and more cavity for the flowing fluid. This design can be expanded for an additional T if you needed to use 2 single switch units.
- You can make a manifold out of a piece of brass pipe (I used 1" pipe), drill 1 or more holes for "weld-in-bungs" or brass couplings. Adding the weld-in-bungs is self explanatory, but you may need steel pipe to match the metal composition of the bung. I used a 3/8 NPT brass coupling that I cut in half to make 2 "bungs". I put these into the holes in the brass pipe and brazed them into place making myself a 1" manifold with two 3/8 openings. Since there's little pressure to worry about, you could even solder those connector pieces or even the bungs to the pipe. I brazed mine to give some added strength. To each end of this manifold, you can add a reducer to take it from the 1" size to whatever size barbed end you want to add. If you use a brass pipe of a large enough diameter, you can make this to splice into a radiator hose.
- You can buy manufactured cast "splice in" pieces that have a boss in the center with a tapped hole for the sensor/switch to fit - there's a link to these somewhere in this thread - they get spliced into the radiator hose. I've used these, they can save a lot of fab time.