You might want to make/order one of the bypass wires discussed earlier in this thread and keep it in your glove box. That's what I've done since my Durango's primary use is also towing the camper with family and supplies.

-Rod

 

I drove out of town this weekend a total of 1300+ miles. No problems with the new alternator (installed last week).
However, I did carry a relay, wires tools and the instructions just in case the TIPM fuel pump relay would give me trouble.

Claus Graf

 

I brought my car in an oil change and told the service adviser that I also have been having longer cranking times recently. It usually takes an extra second on the first start of the day but that's it and have never had a no start. They are saying now that it is due to the recall and kept my car over weekend while they talk to chrysler and try to get the part in to do the repair. So maybe parts are starting to come in??

 

Glad to read it might happen for you. The dealerships here in the NW that I have contacted (3), have said the parts have not come from CDF, nor were there any available parts from CDF. And according to those same dealerships, they are not authorized to work on any vehicle with out having the parts first. But, they did say they could do the fix, if I had my own parts to install. They would bill me for the repair and I would then have to request/ask for my money back for paying the dealership for doing the warranty/recall work. For now I am choosing to wait.

 

Would it be better to do the relay bypass now and prevent (possible) additional damage to the TIPM?



Claus Graf

 

There is a much easier way to bypass the relay on the TIPM. Wire two fuse taps together. Load both up with two 20 amp fuses in each. Put one end in M25 (fuel pump) and the other end into a fuse that's powered whenever the ignition is on. My first choice would use M6 for the front cigarette lighter.

Now, if you use this work around, your fuel pump will be on whenever the vehicle is in ACC or RUN. So don't sit there with the key in the ignition.


If M6 gives you problems, M7 for the rear power outlet is also an option. But make sure you put it to the left or your fuel pump will run constantly. The factory default for that fuse is to the right, or always on.




Edit to add:

Almost forgot...If your relay craps out with the fuel pump relay stuck on, remove the lower fuse from the end you plug into M25. That way the fuel pump is only getting power from the other fuse slot.

Which also means you can pull that fuse to test your jumper before you ever get failure. That way you'll already know it works, and that you can hook it up correctly, should the relay die on you.

 

Mine just started running my battery down in a span of a few hours. I could hear the fuel pump running after shutdown. Taking it in on Monday.

 

How did you make out at the dealership, sbindley?

 

Still waiting actually. It will be 2 weeks tomorrow. I'm not sure why they are keeping it and still paying for my rental (a brand new charger) when it is running perfectly fine, aside from cranking for an extra second on the first start of the day, but I'm not questioning it. I like the charger for the time being and I've had to do a lot of driving the last week so keeping the miles off mine is a plus.

 

I wouldn't mind a brand new charger for a couple weeks. Wait, Challenger is the better one, sorry, I wouldn't mind a Challenger. No offense to the charger, but damn, that Challenger is sweet.