Thanks for the info Pandafan! I stopped by the dealer yesterday, they said that they could take a look, and they'd start with checking the ground straps as you mentioned was done with yours. The funny thing is, last night I started looking online for a 1/0 gauge ground strap to just do it myself since it doesn't appear to be covered for dealer costs. I started looking under the hood at all the ground straps, and was annoyed that the day the alternator failed there was a burnt wiring smell that we reported and nothing found. I started glancing at wiring and saw a wire going into the fuse cover that had a spot that the insulation looked burned. I tried to open the fuse box cover, which it resisted and had to finally force it open with a pop and found this:



Crazy thing is, the fuses are all intact despite the fact that the wires got cooked. The alternator, battery and PCM were all fried a month and a half ago. So the corrosion would make since, where I am if it's raining the brake rotors will get surface rust within hours.

Edit: I checked with the dealer, and the TIPM (Total Integrated Power Module) and wire harnesses are not covered by the recall. They will only cover replacement of the Alternator, Serpentine belt and PCM. This is extremely aggravating, I work on F-15 Fighter aircraft and you're trained if you have a power spikes, especially if it damages LRUs (Line Replaceable Units), you sure as heck better inspect the wiring for damage. We reported smelling burnt wires both in the cabin and under the hood, it fried the PCM. We had to pay to replace the battery even though two cells were cooked, and it was working perfectly fine until the alternator failure and immediately after the failure the electrics were completely out. As I've been told, they have no way of knowing if the burnt wires (or fried battery) were from the alternator failure... what??? I can't think of any other time I had burnt wire smell and a KNOWN power spike that fried the PCM. This just feels like a kick in the butt, the D just hit 100,000 miles yesterday and the final payment is this month.

If you're effected by the alternator recall and have not taken yours in, go get it done NOW, before it fails and does collateral damage that's not covered!

 

Yep, that looks to be exactly what happened to my durango, too! I would ask the dealer or Chrysler to open a case file on your vehicle to document the issues and in case other problems arise in the future. If the dealer won't do it, contact "Dodge Cares" or Chrysler directly.

 

I pulled up the TIPM to see if there was any damage on the underside wire harnesses and connectors. Everything looks ok, some discolored wires, but nothing that looks like it's from a wire overheating. Essentially this means it did it's job since fuses should have blown if it traveled that direction. While I did that I also cleaned the burnt connectors, here's some extra pics of the damage:






Presumably the power spike traveled to this connector junction and then to the PCM since that's what also fried and was covered by the recall. It had to go somewhere since it was there but didn't travel through fuses. In fact, one of the power spike damaged wires was for the rear fog light that was put on (at a Dodge authorized shop in the UK). The heat damage goes 1.5 inches from the terminal but the 15 AMP fuse 2.5 inches from the terminal is completely fine:

After we got the D back from the initial occurrence I checked lights and this rear fog light did and still does work, so the circuit is functional.

The concern is that a power spike traveled from the alternator to the battery and PCM, with enough of a spike to cause this damage at this terminal connection. So what damage did it do to the harness "upstream" of this, from the alternator?

 

Well 9 months since starting this thread, I took the Durango into the dealer yesterday and had the replacement alternator installed. It took less than an hour, and the service technician said he saw no indication of overheating as discribes by others in this string. Arguably with over 50 years of owning vehicles, this one likely is the best built vehicle we have owned, including European and Japanese, yet it is also likely the last North American vehicle we/I will ever own if trade tariffs remain in place. One will be the additional cost since Japanese, Korean or European will be tariff free, and second is strictly political decision not to buy American because of the tariffs. If they are in fact placed on vehicles, I foresee Chrysler and Ford quickly going bankrupt, with GM following sometime later.

 

I have a 2013 Durango and was just made aware of this recall by the mechanic's shop it is currently parked in. Transmission went out and the tech stated the PCM was fried most likely due to this recalled alternator, which caused the gears to grind and send metal shavings throughout the transmission. Complete transmission overhaul and PCM replacement due to the alternator recall. I just took it in to Dodge a few months ago for the brake boost recall and they didn't mention anything about the alternator recall. Now comes the daunting task of trying to get reimbursed for a nearly $5k transmission/PCM job because of collateral damage caused by a faulty recall part.

 

Good luck with the reimbursement. For what it's worth, I've been getting letters from lemon law lawyers about Durangos, specifically mentioning transmission issues. The transmission may be a coincidental, separate problem from the alternator, but still a known issue with this model. My alternator failed catastrophically and fried my PCM and wiring harness, but my transmission was still OK. Since Dodge should be aware of this, your reimbursement should go smoothly. If not, and you know any ambulance chasers, you might want to consult with one...

 

First a little background: I just had my Durango shutdown on me a few days ago. I googled and found this forum and the official recall website. I took my Durango into for the recall and had my alternator and battery changed. After the replacement, they ran test and said everything looked good. I left the dealership and drove about a mile when the battery light came on. I turned back around to show/tell them but of course the light went out. They told me it was normal but if keeps happening bring it back. Well...the next time I tried to drive...I got about a mile again before my battery light came on and everything started to act wonky. I just pulled over and had it towed to the dealership.

My question is: After the alternator and battery change, what can I expect to happen? What components will be changed?

 

Unfortunately, many things can go wrong! The recall was for alternators with a defective diode. You should make sure the alternator they installed was one that had the improved diode. After having my alternator replaced several times, as well as the PCM, I was stranded in the sierras after the Durango stalled unexpectedly and would not restart. Local repair shop could not diagnose the problem. Dealer replaced the fuel pump but that did not solve the stalling problem. After a week of diagnosis, dealer replaced the PCM (for the second time in a year) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle is currently running as it should. I contacted a Lemon Law attorney (it's a California thing) and subsequently have agreed to a cash settlement with Chrysler and I will keep the vehicle. I did this because I have an extended warranty for another 18 months. Otherwise, I would not risk having another breakdown that I would have to pay for. Another possible area of failure to look out for is the TIPM. An earlier recall replaced the fuel pump relay in the TIPM by relocating just the relay. I have no proof that this is the cause of my problem, but it could be. The fact that Chrysler has settled with me indicates that they are aware of problems with the 2013 Durango. Keep on fighting the good fight. And good luck to you!

 

Is the problem solved?
I am in trouble not charging the battery in Japan.
The alternator and the battery have been replaced. but not charged.....
nobody has knowledge in JAPAN.
Help me

 

Test the alternator OFF the vehicle. If it works, then the voltage regulator is the problem, which is a part of the PCM.