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Old Aug 12, 2024 | 05:22 PM
  #31  
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Well, got the the BBKs returned. Might try for the JBA headers later on if I do the motor build. Just Went back to stock manifold. The ones on the 06 had no broken bolts so hopefully they're pretty straight yet. I see no point on spending 400$ on new manifold when the plans for now are to swap motors again anyway. I hated even spending the almost $250 on new gaskets and bolts but manifolds are not something I want to do in chassis. Also the dorman bolts kits are stupid, you get 5 bolts, and 4 double studs. The extra EGR bolt is to long to use the regular bolt the include, so I had to reuse one double stud, but it shouldnt be an issue I dont think

Im curious on opinions in torque procedure. I torqued all bolts to 18ft lbs working from the middle out, but a cylinder head torque process popped in my head, they're done in steps due to the middle loosing torque once you reach the outside, sure enough I checked the middle they were down to 15ftlbs or so. I torque processed 2 times to get all bolts to an even 18 with no turn. First thought was, how many people do this could this be a main reason for gasket failure, but then as I think about it, usually #7 or #8, rear cylinders have the broken bolts. Which they held torque rather well from step one. Now got me thinking are the centers actually to tight and not allow the manifold to move and break the bolts or manifold?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2024 | 06:57 PM
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The manifold will expand some as it gets hot, but, so will the bolts. The problem with the original hemi manifolds is the flow design, and their light weight, they concentrate ALL the heat in the back cylinder, and to a less extent, next to last. The manifold expands a LOT more toward the back, and bolts snap. Even halfway decent headers will solve that problem.

As for the gaskets, the cheap paper gaskets suck, and I don't care what you do, they WILL blow out. Using some remflex dead soft copper, or aluminum gaskets, and a proper torque sequence, and you are done. The won't leak, won't break bolts, and never blow the gasket.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2024 | 01:26 PM
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Yea, there was some chinesium headers on ebay in the 2-300$ range, but i couldn't bring myself to it.

Attempt #2 wasnt going to go without hiccup. The 45* oil filter standoff is definitely required in the 3/4 4x4 chassis. Fortunately the threads and drillings are in the block just need to change it over. Doing it in chassis wasnt fun but having the engine already lined up and bolts set it was easier to swap it out. That way and with a little more effort it now rests in it home. Just need to finish hooking things up.


 
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Old Aug 14, 2024 | 03:28 PM
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Cleaning up the intake, what purpose does this plug serve on What I assume is the PCV system? Looks like it might merge with the EGR port.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2024 | 11:11 PM
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I realize now the stupidity of the previous question. Its the PCV valve, after fiddling with it I found it has a little jiggler in it. I assume to keep crank case pressure at zero but if a vacuum is pulled on the crank case it seals up so at to not suck oil back into the combustion chamber.

I don't like that it dumps oil into the intake though. I may research a way to vent it external instead of into the engine. I see no reason why this would be harmful to the engine?

We're getting closer, actually I think I could fire it, but obviously no coolant in it.


 
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Old Aug 16, 2024 | 09:25 AM
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Put a catch can on the PCV system. It will capture most of the oil that would otherwise go thru the intake.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2024 | 09:28 AM
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The design is a little confusing, as you have the port from the head through the intake to the PCV valve and into the plenum behind the throttle body next to the EGR but you also have a port off the oil fill and over to the air filter box.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2024 | 10:14 AM
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It's a closed system. At least, it is supposed to be. The port on the oil fill is likely the 'intake' side of the system. Manifold vacuum draws air thru the interior of the engine, to scavenge blowby gases... The idea is to have a slight vacuum on the crankcase, keeps the oil cleaner, and helps the rings seal. Catch can would go between the PCV valve, and the intake.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 11:10 PM
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Well we've got it mostly back together, few odds ne ends yet, A/C condenser, bumper ect but its mostly in. Hooked up the battery, fuel pump ran, no leaks. Try to start it *click* *click*. Slightly different click then im used to, it even continued clicking on a time pattern, not sure if thats normal. The cluster lights would fade in and out. I assumed weak battery, though I had it on a float maintainer since removing it, and it was showing charged/maintaining. When intially test driving this truck he had the battery cables off, said it was draining the battery (or resetting the CEL, who knows) but even then it cranked very slow and weird. Thought maybe teh battery was junk.

Tried another battery I had, was fairly certain it was good, less than a year old. Same result, tried boost charger same result. Clean up the clock ground, even ran a jumper cable from the block to battery ground terminal, no change.

I guess I'm wondering if the starter was the issue for the poor cranking on test drive. No big deal, I got another parts truck, I'll swap starters.

Nope, I mean I could with some minor work, but I don't want to butcher the truck up just to fire it tonight. The starter with the nose cone came out of the 06, the other the 04. They seem to be the same, from a fitment stand point, I like the nose code design better though for support on the shaft. The battery hookup was oriented different and the S wire was a different style connector. I didn't want to mess up my battery cable or the S wire so Ill just get a new starter and try again.

EDIT:
After looking up parts for both the 06 and 04, they still show the different starter, I got nervous that the flex plate might be different but both trucks show the same flex plate part numbers in the book, I had not issues attaching the trans. Not sure what the difference is or if it matters. If I should use the 04 starter on the 04 motor/Flexplate, even though there appears to be no difference

gear depth to housing flange is the same, I would assume engaged depth would also be the same.

 

Last edited by dodgetruck2; Aug 21, 2024 at 11:18 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 08:46 AM
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Will the nose cone on the starter on the right prevent the starter from mounting though??
 
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