Well that much I knew, I wasn't sure if you were talking about the master cylinder interchanging or something else.

This is a new to me truck so in the the 30 days I've owned it, no I have not based on the general populations knowledge of flushing brakes I would also say no probably not. Fluid looks like brake fluid otherwise, I believe the PO commented on replacing calipers recently which can loosely be confirmed, pretty good looking pads. This would also probably have changed out the fluid partially.

 

That would be a safe bet.

Wonder if the PO used the el-cheapo deluxe calipers...... Might try jacking up the front end, stomping on the brake pedal a couple times, then see how well the front calipers release......

 

Kind of a interesting puzzle here.
Since it is both front calipers sticking, pretty unlikely that both rubber hoses are bad at the same time .... still worthwhile to replace them.

I'm kinda thinking along the lines of master cylinder also .... But why?

Tell us more about the pedal not returning all the way to the stop. The pedal should fully return and have a few 32nds play in the push rod.
The MC has 2 holes in it, one for front & other for rear. ..... Naturally the rear hole for rear brakes gets uncovered first .... if the pedal is not fully releasing and the piston is just partially covering the front hole ..... It will do what you describe.

@dodgetruck2 Also need to figure out why the brake pedal doesn't return to the brake light switch, even pulling it manually with all my force it doesn't reach.

I have never worked on a truck this new, I dunno how the system works ... the principle is the same though .... if the pedal is not fully returning, I doubt the MC is either.

 

I'm still wondering if its something to do with why I could not separate the MC from the boost, had the nuts off and was to the point I probably would start to bend or break something and the the MC would not separate.

I haven't worked on a Dodge MC this new before but that doesn't seem normal to me.

 

Thats what I'm thinking also, I have replaced MC on older vehicles in the past with power brakes.
It was just a non issue that never caused me to remember something different.

I know enough that on my 49, I installed a 90's Toyota MC on it .... it just fits .... I did have to cut the original brake rod from the pedal to the rear of the MC to get proper play in it.

We absolutely need some play so the MC can retract and relax. .... In the past with power brakes .... it was as simple as a rod connected to the brake pedal that actuated the power brake unit. ... we need minimal play here for clearances.

Then The MC bolted to the power booster it had it's own rod coming out that pushed into the MC again it needs to be fairly loose so the MC fully retracts.

End of the day, you want close to 1/2" of free play in your brake pedal before it actually does anything. ...... I probably have over 1" of play, but it it is old and works fine.

No idea what a previous owner did .... something in this area does not sound right to me.

 

Took a peak at the 04 1500, couldn.t find any labeling for 4wheel abs on the build tag, it has one sensor on the drivers front tire which I know is common on these but I would suspect no sensor on the passenger side means its not 4 wheel abs

Looked up the vin the equipment listing site. Shows 4 Wheel Disc RR Anti Lock brakes, guessing that means something about rear

 

punched up the vin for the 1500 mega and it uses a smaller axle then a full 3/4. It lists 10.5 rear axle vs the 11.5 i mused to in diesels, or would a 2500 hemi also use the 10.5?

 

So I removed the power booster again, and took the parts unit from the 04 and separated the 04 setup. Then proceeded to separate the 06 unit without much trouble. I have no idea why it fought me so hard the first time.

Copied both part numbers off the boosters, they don't match, but who would expect them to three years apart. Lookup only they both off the same replacement part number. I measure the pushrod height from flange both on the rod to the brake pedal and the piston through to the master cylinder. They measured the same. I would suspect if there is a stroke return issue it would be in the boost, as the return spring is there and as ive now made clear the power booster is not stuck to the master cylinder at all so there is no reason that it should be held from returning and the pedal has good free play before applying the brakes. It just doesnt return to the brake light switch far enough. I think Ill install a new switch and the brake lines and retest.

 

Reinstalled everything, now the original switch seems to work normally, not sure what the deal wash, bolted crooked or something.

Installed the front hose, picked up a MITYVAC to swap and bleed brake fluid, asked wife for atleast a gallon, got 32oz jug instead so we didnt really swap fluid just bleed brakes, ill do a swap later. Really having an issue with passenger front, just keeps pulling air and pulling air, all the other calipers purged out good, not sure if theres a bad copper seal washer maybe letting air in, ran out of time tonight. On second view the calipers and pads dont seem as new sa first thought so might do a full brake change out in the near future and fill new fluid.

On jack stands no wheels the release issues seem to be fixed but with the diffs and no drag from wheels or anything its hard to say for sure.

 

Replaced seal washers, still struggling to prime the system from the passenger front caliper. Just seems like it never gets fluid, just air all the time. Buttoned it up and just went and drove it for awhile. Brakes seems to release well now, still a soft pedal though. Have to look into it some more.