Yes, with this much power it is super necessary. (I will also be adding an optima battery and stronger alternator...) There is space betwixt the wall and the sub box to install caps. I am actually installing 2 different caps, as I am running 2 independent power systems. Also note that I have each amp grounded with 4AWG cable to the seat support hooks. Super easy and the shorter the cable to ground the better, right?

I think you will be very happy with this box. I love it...It fits well and sounds great!

 

thanks for the info!

Well, I want to install2 alpines 10" with 125x2 or i might go with 600 mono, I just want a nice deep bass.

 

Unless you going in the 50+ farad area and spending a few hundred $.....caps are a waste of money.

Upgrading your electrical system is a MUCH better option.

 

Well, I had the 1252 on my w0's and it was perfect.But I only had the head unit driving 19.5wRMS per mid/tweet combo, and that was lacking, especially since the XR series can handle 75wRMS.

Amp-wise, I would suggest Concept, Directed, JL, or Orion, depending on how much you are willing to spend. I like the Directed amp, because it is integratable with all of DEI's security systems, they are feature packed, efficient, and sound great. I know that they are durable, because I have a friend that had 3 Memphis 12's on one, and wore it out. That was 3.5 years ago, andhis amp is still running strong with no problems.I have been a fan of concept amps since day 1, and they are fairly inexpensive as well. JL and Orion get pretty pricey, but are both great amps.

I dont pretend to know everything about car audio. I can only take my technical knowledge from being a professional live sound engineer and apply it here. All I know is that if you are going to the trouble to install sound in a vehicle, do it right. Make sure that the amplifier is putting the correct RMS wattage to the speakers(only ever pay attention to RMS wattage. That is the ONLY wattage number that matters, the other numbers are marketing ploys like dodge stating that the Hemi puts out 340hp stock...maybe, but not where the rubber meets the road...) A well planned system that is properly powered will have a MUCH LOWER FAILURE RATE. I will be glad to help with this in any way that I can if you have any questions on that.

Get your power wire kit from ebay, as you can get a 4 AWG kit from a name brand manufacturer for CHEAP! Go no smaller than 4 guage ever....I don't care if you are running a 3w amp...4 AWG power. I think that you are wasting your time installing anything smaller than that.

When I upgraded to the w6's, I needed more power for them and an amp that was stable to 1ohm, that is why I got the Directed D1200 class D. It is 600wRMS, which is perfect for these speakers. I ran theconcept cc-1252in series to bump up the impedance for the mids so I was not overpowering them. The system is balanced, efficient, and ultra clean even at loud volumes. I hate people that have so much bass that you cannot hear anything else going on, that is stupid.

If I were you, I would try to find some w6's...but I am a JL guy, and will probably never own another brand of speakers. I have never had a failure out of a JL speaker...ever....ever....and they are CLEAN. It is too bad you are half a continent away. I would love to show this system off. I will be uploading pics of the completed install later today.

Since you are pulling the seats out, definately spend the $100 and get the 100 sqFT of fatmat off of ebay. It has really reduced the resonance of the doors, and it keeps the sound in. I did the entire cab, since it is only 8 bolts total per set of seats (front & back) and I was already pulling the door panels off. My sound is very punchy now, but even when i am WANGIN, it is very quiet outside the truck with NO RATTLES!!!! Also, before when I would be turning my wheels, you could hear the concrete grinding under my tires. Now I hear nothing. I do hear the engine a little, but the cab is SOOOOOO much quiter than it used to be, like a luxury vehicle. I have heard of people complaining of road noise with this truck, and this is the solution to that issue for sure. I am sure this will help ALOT when I get the headers installed that I have ordered and the Flowmaster 50HD's.... Truck is almost done....leveling kit on the front with the header install and the muffler....oh and the truckputer install down the road (thanks for the idea BWhite)...

Sorry for the rediculously long post.

 

You really only need 1 Farad per 500wRMS, Lash. That would really be overkill, imho.

 

But I agree on the upgrading of the electrical system. A cap is only for thesuddendrawsagainst the alternator/battery, which takes longer than a cap to discharge. A cap can provide that power much faster than it takes for the battery to chemically react or the alternator tomechanically create the power.

 

so far this is what I want to install:

2 Alpine SWE-1042
Alpine PDX-2.150 or Alpine PDX-1.600

what do u think?

 

I think that if you go with those subs, then go with the 2.150. It willgive you the bump you are looking for. For about the same price, I would go with some JLw0's with the same power handling capability.They will hold up longer, and I think you will like them better....If you go with the 1.600 you will be overpowering them. They look to be single voice coil subs, so you would be running 2 or 8 ohms running parallel or series, respectively.

The Alpines are clean, but over the last several years, Alpine has been cutting the cost and quality in their products. I have known several people with the alpines, and they have had problems with the speakers wearing out or the surround disconnecting from the cone. The amps are good clean power though. I just don't like the subs. Their R series is really nice though....they use much better construction on the R series.

 

I didnt see that sub model

how about this one:

JL Audio 10W1v2-4

 

That is the model that they replaced the w0 with. I forgot that. They are GREAT!