hi guys,

the problem is a pulsed signal from the body control module. it is used to check lighting operation. all that is needed is to install a 10000 uf capacitor in line on the two wire connector of the ballast . tha cap. has two leads positive and negitive. positive to the red lead and negitive to the black lead. the capacitor is labeled which is the neg. lead. this stabilizes the pulsed voltage. you will need two ,one for each ballast. they can be bought online at an electronics store. average coust I have found is aruond 8 to 12 dollars each. I am a master tech and major in automotive electronics .. I hope this will help you all out .. Bill

 

Perfect! I knew a cancellor kit was needed and I knew that a cancellor kit was something of that nature, but wasn't sure of the size and for hook-up. Thanks for the info. Hopefully this helps the origional poster

 

when i had the hids installed ( i took them off because the light was all over the place and way to bright without projectors) i found that most kits only plugged into one side of the vehicle and left the other side open. what i did is bought hid pigtails on suvlights.com and made a harness from one side to the other and then to the hid wiring kit. it ended up working and i never had a problem with the hids. i noticed that with the lights on when i start the truck they would flicker but if i started it with them off and then turned them off they were fine. i also had a cheapo ebay setup too. the h13 pigtails were $25 i believe and i had eveyrthing else laying around from work. the whole kit is now on a buddys truck that doesnt care if he gets pulled over and flashed haha.
until i get projectors im going to stick with the slightly better than stock silverstars.

 

or you could just get a cancellor. i did mysetup befire i found the cancellor for sale haha.. but it was fun to make and cheap.

 

so can someone sum this up what all u have to do to run hids fogs and headlights w/o the flashing i'm so confused with everyones ways of making them work i dont know what is what

 

Thanks for the info, but you say a 10000 uf capacitor but you dont say what voltage, should it be 35v?

 

35 volt is great . just needs to be greater than the voltage of the vehicle. charging voltage is around 14.275.

 

Do any of you guys have a picture of the canceller does it pulg into the open side or inline with the hid connector

 

if i am correct most bixenon kits only have one factory plug in (the factory blue 3 prong harness) Even if one were to purchess the relay/cancellor kit it only takes care of one side. what about the other factory headlight plug. Yes the hids may work but you will have that annoying lampout light flashing on the dash. Does anyone know what to do with the other side. I dont konw if its a ground that the bcm (body control Module) is looking for or what, if so then i guess you could just ground the ground wire from the headlights to the body possibly some resistor of somesort needed as well...?????

also i have some questions about HID kits from VVME so if anyone purchased from him let me know.

 

I just bought the Hi/Lo 35watt kit from "VVME.com". I installed the kit exactly as it said to. After trying to find a better ground(it was grounded right the whole time) the lights would only blink on and off, which is the same problem everyone else has with this truck, but nothing changed with the brights on or starting the truck. I bought the 55watt ballast as I was told to by an educated friend so it would draw more power. As of right now, it still doesnt work, but we cut a wire while trying to rigg them on, so that might be the problem. I will try again tomorrow and if that doesnt work, i will try splicing into the parking light, AND IF THAT DOESNT WORK I am going to buy a plane ticket to China and I am going to shove this kit up CHING CHONG's @$$! lol