New found problem w/ truck
ORIGINAL: 94rt10ohio
ThatUSUALLY means it is just a bad sending unit. An engine without oil pressure begins to tick very fast.
They are cheap, pick one up at a local parts store and have your BF put it on, simple fix and something to try before spending big $$ and time.
ThatUSUALLY means it is just a bad sending unit. An engine without oil pressure begins to tick very fast.
They are cheap, pick one up at a local parts store and have your BF put it on, simple fix and something to try before spending big $$ and time.
I dont mind getting grease on me..
If you can use a wrench you can handle this one. Not sure where on the block it will be with the early GEN III, sometimes space is an issue, just depends on the vehcile.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...e+Gauge+Switch
May not be that part, I forget which engine I searched on.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...e+Gauge+Switch
May not be that part, I forget which engine I searched on.
I don't know why I didn't think of a bad sending unit right off. After all, I'm always looking for a quick cheap check of the obvious before digging back into an engine! Maybe I'm just remembering when I was young and stupid, when I put the wrong size plugs in the oil galleys of an engine I built, and the plug popped when the oil pressure peaked! Of course it didn't do that until after the engine was in the car and running hard down the road!
But you did mention a rattling sound under the hood while in drive with the brake on. Check under the hood with someone else holding the brake while in drive to see if it's coming from the engine. Just don't stand in front of the truck in case their foot slips!
But you did mention a rattling sound under the hood while in drive with the brake on. Check under the hood with someone else holding the brake while in drive to see if it's coming from the engine. Just don't stand in front of the truck in case their foot slips!
Yeah, sounds like a faulty oil pump...my friend's 2001 Dodge did the same thing..it sputtered out at a stop and when he got back up to speed the truck worked...every time he stopped it really sounded bad. Either way, good luck for what's around the corner
Will this work also?
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm
Its a 2002 Ram, 1500, 2wd, 4.7v8
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm
Its a 2002 Ram, 1500, 2wd, 4.7v8
My dad bought the manual for my truck on how to pretty much do anything to the truck. Ill go through it and figure this out. Hopefully this works. Thanks again guys, ya'll never let me down!
ORIGINAL: Kendra02
Will this work also?
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm
Its a 2002 Ram, 1500, 2wd, 4.7v8
Will this work also?
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm
Its a 2002 Ram, 1500, 2wd, 4.7v8
The metal end screws into the block, then of course the other end gets the wire harness as you can see from the pics. Make sure to check for leaks after you are done.
For $30 and 15 minutes it is worth it as other issues that would cause this would be most costly and very much more time consuming.
I agree with 94rt10ohio.
When an engine is tore down alot of crud gets broke free. A tiny peice of gunk could be cloging up the sending unit and not registering the correct pressure. It is by far the cheapest fix to start with first.
When an engine is tore down alot of crud gets broke free. A tiny peice of gunk could be cloging up the sending unit and not registering the correct pressure. It is by far the cheapest fix to start with first.



