guess i wasnt the only one who noticed that lol!

 

I thought it was a calendar, lol!!! Maybe I need to go take a closer look

 

I noticed that the first time, but didn't think it was a naughty magazine. Isn't Tankz either married or have a gf? lol
Both of the boxes look nice. I might have to do something in mine sometime. I like my storage room though.

 

I was merely showing that 1.0cu/ft of airspace can be achieved as well as install subs with large magnets and have plenty of room without raising the seats bracket set-up with blocks. The seat also has prongs that go through the floor and the seat will be above the bottom of the rear slider.
Just look at how high my sub grills are and my seats fold down perfectly.
No it's not removable. I'll have to take a hammer to the box and break the seams if I ever decide to take it out. Even if I could remove it, I never would! For what? Seriously? With the grills I made up for them, I can slide a Flat panel TV and rest it right on top of the speakers with no worry. Just figuratively speaking. No speculation on intended purposes or anything....hehehehe

ohh, Nice job Tank.

 

That does look good. My kit does include instructions on how to move the tracks for the seat backs up. Got that covered. The box in my kit is also removable so you can fold the seats up and use the space. How many people actualy do that anyways. If you need to though, just unplug and remove. This is for people who do not want to take 2 or 3 days to build a box or simply ar enot able to do things like that. Yours looks good though.

Thanks, Doug

 

Hey dirty dog, you can correct me if I am wrong. I took the liberty of using the measurements you gave in the email that states that you have exactly 1 cubic foot per sub. I thought that sounded a little high so I did the math. I based it on this: You said you had 2" from the sub to the seat. At the most stock there is only 3.5" at the front of the seat. That is only 1-1/2" depth all the way across. The length is probably some where around 55" and the width should be around 20" that is .95486 cubic feet. That would be the OD (outside Deminsions). Now lets say you used 1/2" material. Did you calculate in the material??? The ID (inside deminsions) which is your actual air space, is: .29688 cubic feet. It looks like you used 3/4" which would be a little less, but since you used the trucks floor pan for the bottom then you would use the 1/2" measurement to equal out the missing bottom. Now for the storage cubbies. these are 16" long at their longest and 12" wide at their widest. After all of the angles are figured in you have .3481 each before the material is figured in. Use the same formula, but figure in the angles this time to get a more acurate measurement and you have with material: .29688 using the 1/2" measurement. This also does not take off for the angles on both ends of the box in the front or where you went around the seat belt or the frame where the seats split.

Add it up. Storage cubbie area ( both ) .28314 x 2 = .56628
Box area + .29688
= .86316
Not even 1 cubic foot total for the entire box. That is about .43158 per sub. factor in those little dips in the floor you may have at most .95 cubic feet total. That is why the seat has to be raised to get .90 in the single sub boxn and still use the storage area under the box. If you want to double check my math go to this web site: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp then scroll down to rectangular/square enclosures. It is a box calculator. It will calculate the main part of the box. Here are the measurements of my single boxes: width 20" x heigth 4" x length 32". Made from 1/2" MDF = 1.02257. now take off for the cup holders and the angle on the end and you have exactly: .96853. This will show you I am not just blowing smoke. You will have to do the math to figure out the angles and remove for that, but it will give you a close measurement to double check mine and it does take in to consideration the thickness of material. I am not trying to call you out or make you look like you do not know what you are talking about. I use to do the same thing when I first started building boxes. Then I would wonder why it did not drop real low or not pick up the really low notes at all. You would be imoressed at the lows of this set up. This is the same thing prefab companies do to miss lead the end user. They do it on perpose though, not by mistake.

Thanks, Doug Walker

 

Nah that is the swim suit calendar my sister got it for me for my b day and its still under the seat, o and I am engaged.

 

you have any pics of what you have so far?

 

You cannot Calculate the box dimension by "logical" math equations for the Dodge Ram!!! There are too many dimensions and variables to accomodate in the arithmetic. Especially since the passenger side compartment is bigger than the driver side. You would need every inch measured and put into a CAD drawing program before any measurement could be precise from that aspect. Note how I moved the "center divider" close to the pass. side to allow more room for the driver side. I used 5/8" MDF, not 3/4". Also, if you can see that my box goes all the way back to the rear wall, where as many end it in front of the seatbelt brackets. While that doesn't add a whole lot of significance, it does help. Also, I removed the carpet, which many people don't do!!! That in itself aded an entire 1" across the bottom surface and the oter wall, especially in the big corner because the carpet didn't even touch the floor pan. Another thing, I went 1" of airspace from the front lip to the back of the seat 'inside dimensions". I have 2" from the front of the box to the bottom of the seat, not in the back. I only calculate INSIDE DIMENSION! Actually, your suppose to even account for the subwoofer magnet and subtract that from the interior dimensions as well, but I wasn't able to achieve the utterly impossible in the dodge ram..lol

I used peanuts. Smaller size Packing peanuts. After I made my box surround and layed it all out for what was the best assumption for evenness I could define, I poured packing peanuts in each side and fill right to the top of where the top plate would rest on. Then I emptied all of the peanuts out into a box and calculated accordingly. Since i did this after I made the box for precise caclualtions, the driver side box is only .05cu/ft larger than the pass. side because I was trying to compensate for the pass. side well being bigger than the driver side. Hardly even noticeable for the sub, especially in a .96cu'ft air space. Which is what I have. I say 1cu/ft because it's a TRUE .95cu/ft which is more than you will get in any pre-made as you had discussed. Driver side measurement is .985cu/ft and the pass side is .935cu/ft based on my calculations. If I had used the peanuts prior to cutting and building the enclosure, I could have had a better idea as to where the divider plate would go. Do you even create a divider plate? Subs just so much tighter with one. The bass is crisper.

If my memory serves me correctly, for the basic measurements of where to add the divider and get rough calculations, the pass. box if I recall was 17" across for the middle of the angle on the inside of the floor pan. When I say this, if the box has a 45deg angle ranging from 5" to 9", I took a 7" measurement for the average. Anyways, 17" across, 10" depth and 7" height from floor pan to bottom of inside the box. That equals .69cu/ft already! This does not include up along the center area where the divider runs and anything outside the center main box itself like up along the top area where the seat belts bolt to. All of that added up to my .95cu/ft space. If you make a box that requires the customer to pull out their carpet in order to insert the box, you will find that you can get much needed airspace and allow a bigger subwoofer to be inserted in the box. I made my box in fear of buying a pre-made and not fitting a quality sub because of magnet size. As stated, my subs are within 1/2" of touching the floor pan. Not the bottom itself, but the side where it goes back up. That part allows limited room for magnet sizes. I was surprised and rather excited when I removed the carpet for how much room is stolen from the carpet.

Look, Obviously I cannot remove my box to build others like it and that's not my intention. I'm just showing you that it is possible to get the dimensions needed without so much crazy work like lifting the seats. The carpet along the front edge still remains. The only part that won't show carpet when you remove the inner liner are the back area where the brackets lie. Doesn't matter because it's not seen, only where the back of the door is you can see painted metal instead of colored carpet. It still looks nice. I little sacrifice can go along way sometimes. This is a box for a truck, not a showcase honda import. I'm sure guys would ditch the under seat carpet to install a box that will pound like they want rather than a vibrating board that's jammed up into the bottom of the seats. And when others accompany them while riding in the back seat, their subs get sat on and there's not enough room to mount a grille so when they fold their seat up, cargo gets thrown on the subs.

 

you guys are crazy, dirty, that looks excellent.

Im have a guys build a box for me right now, hes using 3/4 mdf, and hes managed to achieve just barely shy of 1 cubic foot per sub... its possible.