Nitrous setup on a 2005 4.7L
#12
08-26-2009, 05:36 PM
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#13
08-26-2009, 05:36 PM
Interesting response, but to debate a point, dry shots are not a thing of the past and there is no reason to do a wet shot if he doesnt desire. There is no puddling of fuel with a dry shot b/c you upgrade the injectors to make up the fuel difference. A 75 shot should be just fine with stock injectors, no puddling=no backfire. Also he does not NEED a bottle heater. He COULD get a NANO system which is instant pressure and keeps it consistant throughout the entire run, unlike a bottle heater which takes time to build pressure and loses it during a pass.
I never liked dry shots because you must get the injectors to suit your needs where as a wet kit does all the dirty work for you. Dry kit for a custom tune is the way to go, BUT, most guys aren't looking to spend $2k+ for a N20 set-up. In fact most guys do it for budget and have no idea how expensive the proper set-up can be. Injectors alone can run upwards of $600.
#14
08-26-2009, 05:44 PM
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Excellent info from a Newbie! I am unfamiliar with the Nano system so I cannot comment on that.
I never liked dry shots because you must get the injectors to suit your needs where as a wet kit does all the dirty work for you. Dry kit for a custom tune is the way to go, BUT, most guys aren't looking to spend $2k+ for a N20 set-up. In fact most guys do it for budget and have no idea how expensive the proper set-up can be. Injectors alone can run upwards of $600.
I never liked dry shots because you must get the injectors to suit your needs where as a wet kit does all the dirty work for you. Dry kit for a custom tune is the way to go, BUT, most guys aren't looking to spend $2k+ for a N20 set-up. In fact most guys do it for budget and have no idea how expensive the proper set-up can be. Injectors alone can run upwards of $600.
#15
08-26-2009, 06:10 PM
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#16
08-26-2009, 06:22 PM
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#17
08-26-2009, 07:00 PM
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#18
08-26-2009, 07:30 PM
Most stock sized injectors will not add enough fuel to safely run a dry kit. Did the head gasket thing on my Mustang with a dry kit, after Ford replaced the gaskets under warranty 
, I went with a 100hp wet kit and never had any more problems.
As mentioned, the problem is the weak head gasket situation of the 4.7L. Also, without a computer interface, you will not be able to retard the timing for safe use of the n0s.
, I went with a 100hp wet kit and never had any more problems. As mentioned, the problem is the weak head gasket situation of the 4.7L. Also, without a computer interface, you will not be able to retard the timing for safe use of the n0s.
#19
08-26-2009, 10:15 PM
Actually the head gaskets are not a common issue with the 4.7L... Im surprised to see somone brought them up as a concern. Sure they go out but its not so common and its normaly due to overheating reated issues rather then HP/BOOST.
With that said, the REAL issues the 4.7L has are the "CRAP" factory pistons and Rods.
The top ring is only 1/8" below the piston top. This means there very little meterial protecting the thin top ring from the extream temps associated with boost and LEAN BOOST. The 4.7L can take a 100+ shot easily... Its going lean at WOT that will leave you with broken parts.
What happens when the AFR goes lean, your piston tops get hot, that heat is transfered to the top ring, the top ring expands and seizes against the inner bore of the cylinder, the piston tops rip off and you normally get a HUGE exposion out the intake which in most cases causes the plastic intake to come appart in 100 pieces. Then the first thing people say is... " Oh the intake exploded because you had fuel pooling in the intake thats what happend"
Bottom line, the pistons are NOT forgiving. They will NOT take even a mild case of detonation well. So if you plan to run Nitrous make sure you get yourself a good WIDE BAND DATA LOGER/GUAGE and NEVER NEVER run it lean.
SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM
With that said, the REAL issues the 4.7L has are the "CRAP" factory pistons and Rods.
The top ring is only 1/8" below the piston top. This means there very little meterial protecting the thin top ring from the extream temps associated with boost and LEAN BOOST. The 4.7L can take a 100+ shot easily... Its going lean at WOT that will leave you with broken parts.
What happens when the AFR goes lean, your piston tops get hot, that heat is transfered to the top ring, the top ring expands and seizes against the inner bore of the cylinder, the piston tops rip off and you normally get a HUGE exposion out the intake which in most cases causes the plastic intake to come appart in 100 pieces. Then the first thing people say is... " Oh the intake exploded because you had fuel pooling in the intake thats what happend"
Bottom line, the pistons are NOT forgiving. They will NOT take even a mild case of detonation well. So if you plan to run Nitrous make sure you get yourself a good WIDE BAND DATA LOGER/GUAGE and NEVER NEVER run it lean.
SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM
#20
08-27-2009, 06:46 AM
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Sure the pressure of the gas is greatly increased but Nitorus oxide is 50% more dense than air at the same pressure. One cubic foot of N20 contains 2.3x's as much oxygen as 1 cu/ft of air.
ADDING EXTRA FUEL is what causes higher dynamic cylinder pressures. NOT the N20 itself!!!
ADDING EXTRA FUEL is what causes higher dynamic cylinder pressures. NOT the N20 itself!!!
