Good deal man! I'm really curious to see how the 35's look on your truck, I might be getting the same tires soon I hope. And you'll be happy with the level kit, it will clear the tires, and give it a better stance. Don't worry about the rubbing, just dont make too sharp of turns until you get the kit on there

 

I think I'm gonna go with the rough country one. It's a little more, but I've seen guys around here use rough country with good results.

Yeah, looks like next paycheck I can definitely do the body lift if that's the price it's gonna be.


Keith, appreciate the well wishings man. Haha

I think they are gonna look really good with the leveling kit/body lift and should look even more sick once I get some black nerf bars and bull guard

 

i just installed my rough country keys. fwiw i have 35x13x18 and i dont rub with just a leveling kit

 

A level kit (or t-bar crank) in combination with a body lift is a good combo, won't give you the off-road ride and capabilities of a suspension lift, but is still not bad.
The roughly 4.5-5" of lift in the front between the two and 3" in the rear is a real good height for 35's, plenty of room for off-road travel, and a good look too...

 

That combo looks perfect with 35s!

 

Yeah, did you suggest that after I do the level kit and body lift I get some different shocks that would handle it better?

If I did get some new ones eventually, would I have to reinstall both the level kit and the body lift?

 

Nope, no re-install needed. A body lift does not require longer shocks as it does nothing to change the suspension. A level kit WILL lengthen the suspension, so unless you choose a leveling kit with shock relocation brackets, you will want longer shocks fairly soon.
Some do not go with longer shocks, but they will "bottom out" over even moderate bumps and even during normal driving, although no problems will be detected, they will wear considerably faster than when a truck is at stock height.
A shock that is about 2" longer than normal is plenty, as again, the body lift will have NO bearing on the shocks.

Also remember, when changing anything suspension related, a re-alignment is imperative. You will NOT have to have this redone after a body lift...

Y'all get into any chit with the keys, hunt me down, I'll be around till after Thanksgiving. After that, I'll be in Ga, and if I'm at the farm I'll have no internet access. If you go to do that body lift during that time frame, a couple guys around here can give you advice. I'm sure Rubberfrog would be willing to answer any questions you run into and since it's been about 8 years since I've done a body lift myself, he'll know at least as much as I do, if not more...

 

Lets not forget that the backspacing of the moto metal wheels is a bit more than that of the stock wheels. With that said I was running 35's w/ motometals at stock height. I get some rubbing in certain situations, Mainly anytime I am doing an extreme turn or turning while going over a bump. I cranked the bars about 1" and no longer get any rubbing. I did an alignment the sameday I cranked the bars.

 

he doesnt have stock wheels now lol

 

Alright cool. I'm just gonna throw the leveling kit/keys on there so that I can fit the tires asap for the guy I am trading with. Then in another 2 weeks when I get payed I will be doing the body lift, so it will prob be late november/early december before I get the body lift.

What kind of shocks do you recommend for future reference? I would just need to get 2 of them right, and get them about 2" longer than the stockers? About how much will that run me?

Appreciate all the helpful input hammer.

and nick is correct I do not have stock wheels right now. Also, the rims on here now are 20s and those moto metals are only 17s