5.7L Hemi-Broken Valve Spring - Help
Butch: Multiple Cylinder Misfire codes,Severe shuddering/vibration of vehicle, VERY rough idle, zero compression in cyl.
Sounds like exhaust leak, lifter, (Hemi Tick....although that isn't that loud.)
Sounds like exhaust leak, lifter, (Hemi Tick....although that isn't that loud.)
how did you know the valve spring was broken? What were the symptoms? (or was is obvious) I am having some really bad ticking when starting my truck cold. As soon as it warms up it goes away. Almost seems like a sticky valve, but after reading this I am wondering if the spring could be broken. The "ticking" is really really loud at first.
Weed, what butch1851 is describing here too, it sounds just like a leaking-down lifter. especially over longer rest period. Loud snapping then lifter pumps up, noise is away.
Once in a while, a speck will wedge into the lifter oil entry and create this slight opening. Of course running it stays ahead of the leak. Probing the head with a long 24" extension against the ear and on the head, sometimes locates/nears you to the flat on.
Weed, maybe you've more experience with this?
Last edited by oneHEMI57; Sep 28, 2011 at 01:08 PM. Reason: oops, spell check.
I have not checked manifold bolts yet. Would a loose bolt/leak sound like that?
How would I go about checking/fixing a leaking-down lifter?
I dont mean to hi-jack this thread. I can start a new one if needed. Just thought it might be related
How would I go about checking/fixing a leaking-down lifter?
I dont mean to hi-jack this thread. I can start a new one if needed. Just thought it might be related
Butch, The only way I'm aware of is by way I suggested n post 193.
Get a engine stethoscopes or a 24" extension against the ear , hood up, start the cold engine stand in front of the engine, locate which side it seems the loudest snapping/clicking, and begin probing along top edge of the head to locate the loudest noise location before the flat lifter pumps up. This will get you in the area and the rest is a crap shoot to which is the one.
The way I save time and stress, buy 1/2 doz new lifters and remove and replace all in that area. Another way, let that sucker cool over night as you've done to get the noise to replicate, pull the lifters in that area to see which is the dry est and if this has gone on long enough, on the inspections of the rod ends will look a little diff than the others due to push rod slap (the noise you've been hearing), this inspection of the push rod ends you'll need to do anyway to see if the rod is mushrooming on ends.
Harbor-Freight has those hearing probes, few bucks.
Get a engine stethoscopes or a 24" extension against the ear , hood up, start the cold engine stand in front of the engine, locate which side it seems the loudest snapping/clicking, and begin probing along top edge of the head to locate the loudest noise location before the flat lifter pumps up. This will get you in the area and the rest is a crap shoot to which is the one.
The way I save time and stress, buy 1/2 doz new lifters and remove and replace all in that area. Another way, let that sucker cool over night as you've done to get the noise to replicate, pull the lifters in that area to see which is the dry est and if this has gone on long enough, on the inspections of the rod ends will look a little diff than the others due to push rod slap (the noise you've been hearing), this inspection of the push rod ends you'll need to do anyway to see if the rod is mushrooming on ends.
Harbor-Freight has those hearing probes, few bucks.
Thanks for the help man, is it worth trying a product like gunk motor flush or sea-foam? If not, is it pretty easy to get at the lifters/pushrods? I have never had the valve covers off on this truck, so I am not real familiar with what I am looking at. THanks
Butch1581,
Strong engine flush fluids may compound the grief. I never recommend engine flush. All it takes is a micro speck to break loose and find that small hole, channel and hinder oil flow for lifters, bearings, etc.
1.
This typ vid show where lifters are located, single cam is respect to the rockers.
Intake manifold will need to come off. Roller lifters on these HEMIs, don't know, I doubt it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qO3zS...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2y77...eature=related
1a.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSljo...eature=related
2.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lorANZ1Tptw&NR=1
3.
Remember, on a broken open cold engine.
Sometimes this works by pressing on the push rod, if there is not a mushy
action, just flat as this vid shows, that is more likely the flat lifter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3GnC...eature=related
Strong engine flush fluids may compound the grief. I never recommend engine flush. All it takes is a micro speck to break loose and find that small hole, channel and hinder oil flow for lifters, bearings, etc.
1.
This typ vid show where lifters are located, single cam is respect to the rockers.
Intake manifold will need to come off. Roller lifters on these HEMIs, don't know, I doubt it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qO3zS...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2y77...eature=related
1a.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSljo...eature=related
2.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lorANZ1Tptw&NR=1
3.
Remember, on a broken open cold engine.
Sometimes this works by pressing on the push rod, if there is not a mushy
action, just flat as this vid shows, that is more likely the flat lifter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3GnC...eature=related
Absolutely, its most important to eliminated all other possibilities the cause of the noise before digging onto the heart of this engine.
Another question for you. Process of elimination, have you gone out after letting it set to cool enough so the noise can be duplicated and ran the engine without the serpentine a few minutes to hear the noise diminishing or absent after good oil circulation?
This task, you will not hear rotating noise from the water pump. PS, AC, Alt, idleWheel, belt whip, fan blow. Just noise from the engine lifters, fuel injectors.
Note Be aware; this task may throw a code, so look for it.
Weed, Hammer, may be able to share some light on this area?
Butch, have you had this vehicle since brand-new day one, short after zero miles?
Another question for you. Process of elimination, have you gone out after letting it set to cool enough so the noise can be duplicated and ran the engine without the serpentine a few minutes to hear the noise diminishing or absent after good oil circulation?
This task, you will not hear rotating noise from the water pump. PS, AC, Alt, idleWheel, belt whip, fan blow. Just noise from the engine lifters, fuel injectors.
Note Be aware; this task may throw a code, so look for it.
Weed, Hammer, may be able to share some light on this area?
Butch, have you had this vehicle since brand-new day one, short after zero miles?
I have not tried running it without the belt. I would have to disconnect my intake hose from the supercharger as well since the blower would not be giving the motor any air. It is plenty loud to hear though and it sounds like its on the driver's side. I got the truck with about 12,000 miles on it and have run full synthetic oil in it since then. Brands vary depending on what's on sale (Valvoline, Mobil 1, Castrol) The problem came while I had Quaker State full synthetic in the motor for the first time. I changed it shortly after that just in case the oil was causing any issues. I switched out to Valvoline Ultra and added 3 bottles of the marvel mystery oil additive:
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/mmo/
The noise went away for a few weeks, but then returned. It is now very consistant, everytime it sits for a while (doesnt even have to be fully cold) it will tick for at least a little while. the colder it is the louder and longer the tick.
Do you guys think that the seafoam would cause more issues? Wouldn't the oil filter catch anything that it breaks loose? Obviously I am looking for an easy way out of this
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/mmo/
The noise went away for a few weeks, but then returned. It is now very consistant, everytime it sits for a while (doesnt even have to be fully cold) it will tick for at least a little while. the colder it is the louder and longer the tick.
Do you guys think that the seafoam would cause more issues? Wouldn't the oil filter catch anything that it breaks loose? Obviously I am looking for an easy way out of this





