Front Wheel hub/bearing/abs speed sensor
#1
Front Wheel hub/bearing/abs speed sensor
My driver side front wheel bearing was shot to **** and screaming loud. I called Dodge to see what they would ask for a replacement part, as well as the service. As always, I was wholly shocked and somewhat surprised that they were going to ask $240 for the hub/bearing assembly (with the ABS speed sensor), and an additional $400 for the labor for ONE wheel bearing replacement. As the procedure for replacing the hub/bearing is relatively easy (pretty much the hardest part was dealing with how well the bolts were torqued), I wanted to know what other Dodge dealers were asking. I called 4. All asked $240 for the part, and labor ranged from $300-500.
I came on here just to simply say: change your own wheel bearings. It is so easy. Do not let the dealer take you on this. It is amazing what they are able to charge.
In summary: get the wheel off, so 5 lugs come off. There's a really TOUGH axle nut that is torqued on there, so use a breaker bar to aid in this, and remove the axle nut. To get the caliper and rotor off, two caliper bolts come off. Hang your caliper with a bungee chord. To get the hub off, three hub bolts come off. Annnnnnd you're done. Install new hub/bearing and snap on the speed sensor if you chose 4-wheel ABS. It is NOT a $550-750 repair. Youtube search for "truck wheel bearing replacement", and there are many many many videos of dodges, chevys, fords, blah blah blah with a step by step guide.
Fck dealer maintenance. It does not mean you are getting better quality work. More often than not, it means you are getting screwed out of money that you shouldn't have to give them. Just because your neighborhood mechanic doesn't work solely on Dodges all day long (who knows, he might tho?!) doesn't mean he or she cannot do equivalent or better work than your dealer.
I came on here just to simply say: change your own wheel bearings. It is so easy. Do not let the dealer take you on this. It is amazing what they are able to charge.
In summary: get the wheel off, so 5 lugs come off. There's a really TOUGH axle nut that is torqued on there, so use a breaker bar to aid in this, and remove the axle nut. To get the caliper and rotor off, two caliper bolts come off. Hang your caliper with a bungee chord. To get the hub off, three hub bolts come off. Annnnnnd you're done. Install new hub/bearing and snap on the speed sensor if you chose 4-wheel ABS. It is NOT a $550-750 repair. Youtube search for "truck wheel bearing replacement", and there are many many many videos of dodges, chevys, fords, blah blah blah with a step by step guide.
Fck dealer maintenance. It does not mean you are getting better quality work. More often than not, it means you are getting screwed out of money that you shouldn't have to give them. Just because your neighborhood mechanic doesn't work solely on Dodges all day long (who knows, he might tho?!) doesn't mean he or she cannot do equivalent or better work than your dealer.
#2
#3
Congrats on saving yourself some dough and getting your fingers dirty... much better than letting the dealer stick it to ya.
Out of curiosity, did you torque the axle/hub nut down to proper specs? It is quite important to prevent premature failure (which being too tight or too loose will do). I'm not sure exactly what the torque setting is for your truck, but it should be somewhere around 175 ft. lbs.
Out of curiosity, did you torque the axle/hub nut down to proper specs? It is quite important to prevent premature failure (which being too tight or too loose will do). I'm not sure exactly what the torque setting is for your truck, but it should be somewhere around 175 ft. lbs.
#4
well...
I have a 150TQ wrench, so I wasn't able to torque to spec. So that's a problem. I figured 150tq would be okay. I'll have to call up a buddy and borrow his. Thankfully it's not too much trouble to get to the axle nut. Oh yeah, I got the part off ebay for ~$72. It was mopar part no. 68081028AA. Same part dealer was asking $240 for.
I actually have read quite a few posts about premature failure with that mopar bearing. So, this will have to be done... now.
And yeah you're right HLS. Unless I really can't do the work myself, I'm not taking it in to anyone.
Ultimately, i really REALLY regret buying the 3.7L V6. What a power sink. Lame. So ANY more $ on this truck in "labor" fees by someone else is money down the drain IMO.
I actually have read quite a few posts about premature failure with that mopar bearing. So, this will have to be done... now.
And yeah you're right HLS. Unless I really can't do the work myself, I'm not taking it in to anyone.
Ultimately, i really REALLY regret buying the 3.7L V6. What a power sink. Lame. So ANY more $ on this truck in "labor" fees by someone else is money down the drain IMO.
#6
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#8
Sorry to hijack this thread, but it seems relevant to my situation. My front end is making a noise that is like a light thump every time the wheel makes a revolution. It gets louder when I turn right, but disappears when I turn left. I think its either the bearing or the CV Shaft. What do you guys think?
#10
Sorry to hijack this thread, but it seems relevant to my situation. My front end is making a noise that is like a light thump every time the wheel makes a revolution. It gets louder when I turn right, but disappears when I turn left. I think its either the bearing or the CV Shaft. What do you guys think?