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Got *HID* Problems? Check in here...

  #21  
Old 12-28-2010, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh E View Post
Weed......my kits came from HID Extra......is it also normal for the high beams to suck? They are the same light on high as my old factory bulbs and as wierd as it may seem........they are no where near as bright as my low beam hids. Hope that makes sense
high beams all suck when it comes to HID hi/low because of two reasons. One, they use magnetic base bulbs which when you use high beams the bukbs stay lit but they get tilted up a bit. This normally throws the light pattern off and out. Secondly, you are using headlight housing which were not made for HIDs to begin with. Although you may think a light bulb is a light bulb, thats not exactly true. There are engineering principles and ergonomics involved in making those lights for halogen bulbs and not HIDs.

Everyone who has HID hi/lo never uses their HID high. I also recommend to guys to get HID low/halogen high. But dont let that fool you into thinking you are getting high beams because you still are not. The halogen high is the equivalent to halogen low. But you can get those and use them to pass any state or annual inspection. You would just turn on the high beams which are halogen. You do this because your car was not made for, sold with and has headlight housings made for HIDs.

If you want real HID high beams and to function and look good them you start looking at OEM HID bi-xenon projectors with cutoff shields. But then you are looking at 200 for projectors, new bulbs, shrouds + install fees

Originally Posted by white3designs View Post
Ok...I installed my kit! They work, but problems, problems, problems! The first is the flickering, it only does it on High Beam. The next is when going from high to low beam the lamps cut out for a second and then go to low beam (does not do it from low to high, only high to low). The next is the "lamp out" light wont go out even with the decoders that came with the kit....any suggestion? The customer service where I bought them sucks! They dont have "phone support" only e-mail. Any help would be appreciated very much since I been chasing my tail all day with this....
Start at the beginning of this thread and read. You need to get some 50 watt resistors and use them. Not trying to be mean but Im not going to keep repeating the same info in the same thread. That just causes clutter and confusion.
 
  #22  
Old 12-28-2010, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by weedahoe View Post
high beams all suck when it comes to HID hi/low because of two reasons. One, they use magnetic base bulbs which when you use high beams the bukbs stay lit but they get tilted up a bit. This normally throws the light pattern off and out. Secondly, you are using headlight housing which were not made for HIDs to begin with. Although you may think a light bulb is a light bulb, thats not exactly true. There are engineering principles and ergonomics involved in making those lights for halogen bulbs and not HIDs.

Everyone who has HID hi/lo never uses their HID high. I also recommend to guys to get HID low/halogen high. But dont let that fool you into thinking you are getting high beams because you still are not. The halogen high is the equivalent to halogen low. But you can get those and use them to pass any state or annual inspection. You would just turn on the high beams which are halogen. You do this because your car was not made for, sold with and has headlight housings made for HIDs.

If you want real HID high beams and to function and look good them you start looking at OEM HID bi-xenon projectors with cutoff shields. But then you are looking at 200 for projectors, new bulbs, shrouds + install fees



Start at the beginning of this thread and read. You need to get some 50 watt resistors and use them. Not trying to be mean but Im not going to keep repeating the same info in the same thread. That just causes clutter and confusion.


Maybe you misunderstood weed, sorry. I do have the HID low/halogen high. My HID lows are super bright anyways..................i was just wondering as to why even put a halogen buld in for high if it isn't gonna be any brighter than the low. You got a few good points as to why though. The halogen buld used is rediculously smal anyways. Owell, i'm happy with the set-up none-the-less.
 
  #23  
Old 12-29-2010, 08:05 AM
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Yeah, halogen highs are a joke combined with HID lows. They are mainly used for those needing to pass an inspection.

Glad you like them though. Once you have HIDs you will never go back
 
  #24  
Old 12-29-2010, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by white3designs View Post
Ok...I installed my kit! They work, but problems, problems, problems! The first is the flickering, it only does it on High Beam. The next is when going from high to low beam the lamps cut out for a second and then go to low beam (does not do it from low to high, only high to low). The next is the "lamp out" light wont go out even with the decoders that came with the kit....any suggestion? The customer service where I bought them sucks! They dont have "phone support" only e-mail. Any help would be appreciated very much since I been chasing my tail all day with this....
Sounds like you have a cheap cancellor kit that only uses capacitors on the low beam side and not the high beam side.
There needs to be 2 diode's in the wiring. One from the low-high facing and one from the high-low facing to eliminate gaps in circuit switching where there is briefly no power. Either your diode's burnt up or you got a cheap harness which I think is the case.
This is because the decoders are cancellors that simply stop flickering. They have nothing to do with Lamp-out light in the dash. You need some resistors for the lampout light to go away. 4 total. One for each high and low beam wire.
 
  #25  
Old 01-01-2011, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bsaltnlite View Post
I bought a kit from vvme.com also. The problem with mine is i'm not getting any light at all. Not even a flickering. Have gone over all the connections several times and everything is grounded and getting power. I'm getting frustrated. Did you have any issues like this? how did you install your kit? Maybe I'm doing something wrong.....
Pleae review the HID thread located HERE
Make sure you have a fuse in the holder if using a relay harness and it's good. You can use a multimeter and see if your getting power at the ballasts both In-DC and Out-AC. You would also want to check the relay itself.
 
  #26  
Old 01-04-2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by holydiver89 View Post
I didn't see anything about 1 headlight going out at idle in any other posts but if you turn the headlights off then back on it comes on again, but I think I fixed that issue i ordered a set of resistors ( each set has 2 resistors on it ,1 for hi and 1 for low) similar to this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-L...Q5fAccessories

anyways the resistors just plug into the stock blue headlight harness and then into the blue harness plug for the HID's and the 1 set was enough to get the lights to stop flickering and work but then the drivers side would go out unless you were driving, so i plugged the second set in ( all 4 resistors in a row on drivers side) and let my truck warm up after work, when i came out to go home drivers side was still on so maybe it just needed more resistance, but the "lamp out" light is still on, I know you mentioned in post #30 I think, that you need 4 sets (8 resistors) total, 2 sets for each side, does this apply even to the kind of HID I have where the passenger pigtail doesn't even plug into anything? do I just plug in 2 more sets of resistors to that end?
No, it's 2 sets which equals 4 resistors total. You need only one resistor per each (hi and lo). Adding anymore than that is overdrawing current from that line and can cause damage even on a fused line. Think of it like adding a splitter in the cigar lighter and plugging in 2 aircompressors rather than just one. That's what plugging the resistors kits one ontop of another does essentially. You'll need to install a "kit" on the passenger side as well. One for each side.
It's cancellors that stop the flickering and the resistors that remove the lamp out indicator.
Are you sure you didn't buy cancellor kits which are capacitors and not resistors? Plugging NOTHING into your pass side is also what's causing you to have a Lamp out light. Why wouldn't it? There's nothing plugged in there and the computer is detecting that. If you purchased a Pre-made kit, they are likely cancellors, not resistors.


As far as the driverside not illuminating at idle, you may have a loose/bad connection or an "iffy" ballast. Try swapping out ballasts if it continues after adding the resistors to BOTH sides and checking your connections. Ballasts need a specific amount of voltage or they won't operate.
 
  #27  
Old 01-05-2011, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by holydiver89 View Post
I was thinking the same thing but the kit I have is designed to run ground to frame, power to battery then plug into drivers side pigtail then it jumps to pass side, and i've seen a few videos of people installing the same kit and got it to work somehow they say the relay only needs signal from 1 bulb but idk . i even tried plugging my old halogen bulb into the pass side pigtail, along with the hid's running and the lamp out light still stayed on. would i need to get a whole new kit with 2 harnesses ( 1 to each headlight) or is there a way to make this kind work? Also I had 1 "CANCELLER CAPACITOR" plugged into each side and that didn't fix the flicker OR the lamp out so i installed the RESISTORS and that fixed the flicker, but lamp out is still on
Stop right there. If you plugged back in you halogen headlight and they worked and you still got the Lamp Out light on, then it isnt the headlights but the tail lights that are the issue. 2003's already have common and known issues of the bulb base sockets and circuit boards being an issue and I know a guy personally who also did HIDs and kept having the same issue and found it to be a brake light bulb. So check all your parking lights and have someone press the brake while you check the brake lights
 
  #28  
Old 01-05-2011, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by holydiver89 View Post
Also when I said I plugged the halogen in, I meant I plugged it into the pass side where nothing plugs in and left the hid hooked up too, I havnt tried yanking the hid out and putting both halogens back in to see if lamp out goes away
That would be the next step before anything else IMO
 
  #29  
Old 01-06-2011, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by holydiver89 View Post
Alright so today I yanked out all the hid **** and reinstalled my normal lights, everything works fine, no flicker or lamp out light so nothing is wrong with the circuit. I ordered a new kit today that is the normal kind that has a ballast and bulb that plugs into each side instead of a harness running to the pass side. So to be clear, I will need 2 50w resistors on each side (1 for hi and 1 for low) plus 1 canceller capacitor on each side?
Very good to hear your original wiring and all are ok. If you buy 4 resistors (2 per each side with one on high and one on low) then you will not need to plug in the canceller kit
 
  #30  
Old 01-09-2011, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by holydiver89 View Post
I actually have one more question regarding halo/projector headlights and fog lights. I've heard they aren't that great, and I happened to be looking at Dirtydog's photos and noticed in the 1 pic, his stock fog light lens with HID seems brighter than the projector headlights with HID's. Any opinions or words of wisdom? Also do smoked projectors darken the light significantly compared to normal projector? ( just wondering if hid's will be a waste if smoked will make them dim as halogens)
There's a difference between the fogs w/hid's than the projectors that I have. The foglight beam pattern is concentrated directly infront on the ground. It's caused by the glare on the back of the halogen housing. This is where it appears brighter, but is not lighting other areas at all. The projectors I have are OEM HID projectors which disburse the light pattern over a broad area not in a concetrated point. This is to create a lumunous foreground of lighting all while cutting off the light above a specific point. I assure you that true projector hid's when aligned with your eyeball will put out more lumens than any halogen reflected beam. I can also assure you that when my fogs are on they are bright yeah, but once I turn on the headlights it's a totally differnt playing field. You can't go by looking at the lens either.
Any smoked lens will reduce output. How much will depend on the amount darkened but it can be alot of light loss. i left mine clear for that reason. You will still get more light output with HID's in smoked housing than Halogen. Any aftermarket projector headlight isn't made for an hid bulb so the beam pattern may actually be worse with hid than a standard halogen bulb. You will likely get a brighter output with halogen housings than aftermarket projectors.
 

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