Aug 5, 2015, 09:05 PM
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Amateur
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
alright so stock headlights = better with HID than aftermarket housing with HID, but OEM projectors with hid are better than halogen housing oem with HID? I can't seem to find any OEM projectors for an '03 1500 so it sounds like sticking with my halogen housing is the best bet.
Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: CT
I can’t speak for HID’s in the stock housing, but like Dirty said, aftermarket projectors are not made for HID’s. And speaking from experience, the beam pattern of HID’s in the aftermarket projectors sucks big time. As far as not finding OEM projectors for your truck, that is because Ram’s have never come with HID’s from the factory. If you want OEM projectors, you’re going to have to buy the projectors themselves, and either using your stock lights or buying an extra set, getting the OEM projectors retrofitted into the stock housing.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 19,168
Likes: 23
From: South GA
I just want to touch base on the part of where you are talking about using HIDs and smoked lens. There have been guys who have used HIDs with smokes lens and ended up melting their lens. So keep in mind the darker the lens the more heat it holds to the point of melting.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg MB
its an 07 ram q/c hemi sport. i cant even seem to get it to turn on for that 5 minutes but i also havent tried hooking up the resistors to the relay yet either i guess i could give that a shot
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 19,168
Likes: 23
From: South GA
Ive read this thread numerous times and i cant seem to find the same problem im having. I ordered an hid kit from hidextra fogs and bi-xenon i have the relay and resisters and cant seem to get everything to work i tried hooking up the relay and the same problem persists in that when i turn the lights on (truck not running) they work and when i turn my truck on the lights blink 3 times and turn off any ideas????
Most newer Dodge vehicles that run an H13 bulb are going to run into issues with flickering lights and I can tell you why! Our supplier for H.I.D's has been tackling this issue for a little over a year now.
The power supply from the computer is essentially a switched power supply. Meaning there has to be the exact proper amount of resistance in order for the computer to realize there is a light or H.I.D system to ignite, otherwise the computer goes all wonky and your lights flicker, because the resistance is wrong and the power supply keeps turning on, realizes its wrong and turns back off. There fix was to make another controller for dodge units that contained capacitor/resistors into the mix inorder to tricking the ECU into thinking it had the proper load and not to switch on and off.
The power supply from the computer is essentially a switched power supply. Meaning there has to be the exact proper amount of resistance in order for the computer to realize there is a light or H.I.D system to ignite, otherwise the computer goes all wonky and your lights flicker, because the resistance is wrong and the power supply keeps turning on, realizes its wrong and turns back off. There fix was to make another controller for dodge units that contained capacitor/resistors into the mix inorder to tricking the ECU into thinking it had the proper load and not to switch on and off.
Yeah some times you need the resistors AND a capacitor on each side, those normally run about 20 bucks per pair but I would recommend maybe just driving with fog lights or put halogens back in for now, I've got my new hids coming tomorrow or wed ill let you know if it works soon as I get them in. From the way these other guys talk if you have that kind with the 4 resistors instead of the harness you have it should work fine, but ill let you know
Ive hooked up A LOT of kits locally for guys around here and MOST in Dodge Rams because everyone thinks its so hard to get them working. Ive never not once had an issue getting them to work and most of the time when asked what kind to buy i recommend cheap ebay kits and thats what they buy.
Thread Starter
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Moderate User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,003
Likes: 21
From: Albany, NY
Is there some stupid rule saying bixenon has to have a gay relay and a harness that stretches over to the pass. side? cause i just ordered a new kit and in the picture it showed just 2 bulbs and 2 ballasts and then i get it and its a dumb harness just like my old one wtf
NO, you CANNOT just plug the ballasts directly to your OEM pigtails or you will experience flicker and lamp out function!
Beside's, ANY HID light kit that can just plug directly in draws up to 10a surge current each side which is past the circuits limits of 7.5a each side.
I had my fogs plugged in like that for a bit since the fogs are NOT Canbus controlled but have since added a relay harness for them as well.
I'm not sure why you would need an additional relay harness for Bi-xenons, but you still need atleast 1 relay harness!
Amateur
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Well since my resistors are plug and play with the same connectors as OEM bulb plugs, i can only plug 1 set of resistors in because even if i plug the other set into the pass. side it does nothing since it has nothing to ground to, so do I just have to solder my own resistor in on the pass side between the bulb and ballast? also i got a brand new hid kit for my fog lights and at first both of them turned off, now i'm only having issues with the pass side, ill turn the fogs on then after about 2 minutes it will shut off, turn the fogs off then back on and it will stay on for like an hour of driving then shut off again, sounds like you guys say there should be no issues with the fogs since they aren't canbus so shall I assume that my brand new ballast is junk?
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 19,168
Likes: 23
From: South GA
See post #51 on how to trick the passenger side with resistors.
As for the fogs, simply swap the fog bulbs from pass side to drivers side to check the bulb. If the pass side still goes out then swap the ballast left to right and see if it follows to the drivers side or stays at the pass side. That will let you know if you have a bad bulb or ballast.
As for the fogs, simply swap the fog bulbs from pass side to drivers side to check the bulb. If the pass side still goes out then swap the ballast left to right and see if it follows to the drivers side or stays at the pass side. That will let you know if you have a bad bulb or ballast.
Thread Starter
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Moderate User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,003
Likes: 21
From: Albany, NY
Well since my resistors are plug and play with the same connectors as OEM bulb plugs, i can only plug 1 set of resistors in because even if i plug the other set into the pass. side it does nothing since it has nothing to ground to, so do I just have to solder my own resistor in on the pass side between the bulb and ballast? also i got a brand new hid kit for my fog lights and at first both of them turned off, now i'm only having issues with the pass side, ill turn the fogs on then after about 2 minutes it will shut off, turn the fogs off then back on and it will stay on for like an hour of driving then shut off again, sounds like you guys say there should be no issues with the fogs since they aren't canbus so shall I assume that my brand new ballast is junk?
As far as them not doing anything because they aren't grounded?? Well, they are. There are 3 wires...Low, Ground, High. The center wire is ground and is where both are grounded to! You cannot ground to the frame and leave that line open or there will be an open ground sensed and you will still have computer control issue's.