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Got *HID* Problems? Check in here...

  #41  
Old 01-17-2011, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by holydiver89 View Post
Alright thanks I will try that. If by chance I wanted to just do low beam hids would that work? Cause. I tried checking from ground wire to power on he oem plug with 2 different test lights and got no power so I just clipped 1 wire at a time until I found high beam and clipped that 1 then respliced the other 2 so low beam worked but not high, but the lamp out light stayed on, does the canbus system monitor high beam too? If so then I'm guessing I would have tghe same issue if I tried just buying a low beam kit
YES, hence why you need 4 resistors total regardless of what type of HID kit you get. You could just do the Lowbeam side, but you will have Active codes dsotred in your PCM and it may or may not effect the circuit. I had NO reistors on my lows or my highs and my circuit never shut off, but some guys have had trouble. I would install the resistors regardless of you have highbeam bulbs or not.
Simply solder or connect the resisotrs to the outside wires and the other end of the resistor BOTh tie into the middle ground wire. This will prevent any Active codes from being stored(active codes won't necessarily illuminate the check engine light or cause any driveability issue but it will be shown when checked with a Starscan tool or other)
 
  #42  
Old 01-18-2011, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by holydiver89 View Post
Alright so just to clarify before I do this, 2 resistors on each side, then you take the wire coming out of 1 end of the resistor and solder 1 resistor to both outside wires on the oem plug, then solder BOTH of the other end wires of the resistors to the center ground wire? Regardless if I have bi-xenon or just low beam?
As Weedahoe already posted. Look at this pic.
Resistors get connected to power on one side and grounded on the other. The center wire is ground. The two outsides are power.
Originally Posted by weedahoe View Post
You can go to ebay and buy just a single 9007 (or whatever plug style you need) and wire yours like this. Make sure you get the right male or female plug though

 
  #43  
Old 01-19-2011, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by holydiver89 View Post
Alright I see now, i'll have to modify my resistor to look like that one then it just plugs into the oem plug on the passenger side creating a resistor loop to to act as the bulb, thanks for the help i'll try it out
Exactly. it just loops back into the headlight wiring.

Originally Posted by keystonedragger View Post
i searched the hid problem thread and cannot find anyone with the same problem as me. i just installed hids in my fog lights. they worked in the garage right after i installed them. i swear i let them power up all the way. i pulled out of my garage and parked it over night. got in this morning, started the truck and hit the fog lights. they begin to warm up and blew a fuse before they reached full power. it blows the 15a fog light fuse (#41). so i changed it thinking maybe it was just a fluke and sure enough it did it again. would there be any damage done if i was to jump up to a higher rated fuse? it's a 15a fuse, so maybe a 20 or 25 would be ok? what do you guys think?
Do not replace the fuse with a bigger fuse. You are asking for potential problems. You need to find out why it is blowing fuses. Obviously something is wrong. Try replacing the fuse with the same size and unplugging one of the ballast and then turning them on. If it lights up then turn them off, unplug the one ballast and bulb that worked and plug in the other. Then turn them back on and see if it works of blows the fuse. This is how you can determine if it is a bad ballast that is shorted out internally and blowing the fuse.

Do that and report back
 
  #44  
Old 01-19-2011, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by keystonedragger View Post
ok guys, i unplugged one light, no blown fuse. unplugged the other one, no blown fuse. so they dont blow fuses on their own but when you wire them up at the same time, the 15a fuse blows. for lack of anything else to try, i plugged in a 20a fuse with both lights connected and it works fine. i didn't see any smoke from the wiring haha

so what do you guys think? safe to keep it that way? i did not try a 15a fuse after i was done troubleshooting them but i dont see why anything would have changed. altho i dont see why it worked in my garage last night and started blowing fuses this morning or even why im even having this dumbass problem to begin with. has anyone else put in higher rated fuses?
Get it outta there. No it's not safe. The wiring and circuit is only capable of supplying 15a MAX.
If you are blowing the fuse with them plugged in directly, you NEED a relay harness. The problem is that HID draws excessive amounts of current upon start-up. It's not until they are fully warmed up that they draw less current. Some kits draw more current than others, and apparently your kit draws more than the circuit is designed to supply.

Keep that 20a fuse in there and you'll likely melt the wiring and/or fry a component or two. Since it's popping the fuse, your headlamp switch will be the first to go if your wiring doesn't melt in the mean time???
IUnstall a relay harness and be safe.
 
  #45  
Old 01-19-2011, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by CRAIG02RAM View Post
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Diamo...Q5fAccessories

Here's the kit I ordered, my friend has them on a different vehicle and work great. What do y'all think ill need to get them hooked up and working correctly other than wiring it comes with.
Originally Posted by CRAIG02RAM View Post
Is there not a trick with a relay? I've heard sum using a relay
Originally Posted by CRAIG02RAM View Post
No, youd on't need capacitors. You need to read this entire thread, especially the first page and first post!
You need resitors even with a relay harness.
Please read this entire thread and thne post back IF you have a problem AFTER the install.
 
  #46  
Old 01-20-2011, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by keystonedragger View Post
could you point me in the right direction for the relay harness that i need?
Originally Posted by keystonedragger View Post
http://www.carhidkits.com/xenon-hid-...rness-200.html is this what you're talking about. i think i understand the concept
Yeah thats the right harness but priced way to high and it is the right one IF you have xenon bulbs (just low beam) and not bixenon (high and low).

Check out ebay item 230487997028 for the same xenon harness for $9 shipped

Or look at ebay item 110637811137 for a bixenon harness. (NOTE) - the relay and harness pictured in this auction is not the right picture. But I just bought two of these from this guy and they are the right harness.

Bixenon harness's look like this with a bigger, wide, flat relay



Xenon harness's have a square PDT relay and look like this



Now, be CAREFUL of 9004 and 9007 harness's as they both use the same blue D shaped plug. Both have 3 pins.

9007's have the two outer pins as white and blue (high and low) and brown as the center (ground or common).

9004's are switched around.

So if you get a harness and yours are switched, you may need to swap the pins to make it match the 9007

Originally Posted by CRAIG02RAM View Post
I'd like to get it right the first time.. now would it not work to put one resistor were the harness goes onto the factory plug?
You would normally tap the resistors into the HID harness and after the plug that goes into the OEM wiring. This is so if you ever take them off, the resistors come off with the HID harness so all you have to do is plug the OEM bulbs in and go as the OEM wiring would have been left untouched.

Originally Posted by CRAIG02RAM
Man I've read over that hid forum and was thinking the resistors get spliced in at the hid bulb, but one post seemed to put them at the factory bulb plug..? I'm confused ..... I know I need 4 resistors and they wire in to high to negative and low to negative wires but just don't know exactly were to put them.

I've also seen some harnesses that only use one resistor on eBay but don't think they will work since my bulbs are bixenon
Look at my pics and you will see they are tapped on the HID harness. NOT the OEM wiring harness that came with the truck.
 
  #47  
Old 01-25-2011, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Ben D. View Post
anybody with the resistors in their truck ever check to see how hot those things get? I'm curious because I tried a set from radioshack and the resistors got so damn hot i said to hell with it. If i could find a resistor that stayed fairly cool. I mean warm or hot is one thing but hot enough to melt insulation and wire is not a good thing. Personally at that point I'd rather not even have HID's. Which is how i'm rolling now.

Although I do have a theory on modifying the actual headlight switch of the truck. But I need to buy a second switch to see if that is possible.
Yes they get very hot. They are "load" resistors. Why do you think those 50 watt resistors I have shown have heat sink fins on them? They are made to dissipate heat. Why do you think mine are shown with insulation on the wires?

You will not find a resistor to stay cool. We have mentioned many times they get hot and why

The 50 watt resistors have small holes in them to screw them to the frame.

Originally Posted by CRAIG02RAM View Post
What ohm should I get in resistors

Also on my Truck the lights have to be turned on to be on, there's no auto lights or running lights, its either parking on or headlights on they will only cut off automatically if left on for a period of time with truck off. I took my driver side bulb out earlier to check plug type ans forgot to put it in and drove it tonight and never did a lamp out or notification come on, and drove for about 20 mins with no notification? ?
How many times have we said to use the 50 watt resistors? Did you see them in my pictures?

Originally Posted by JonnyBlaze420 View Post
I bought a couple hid kits and have been reading this thread. Can I use this instead of having to solder in resistors?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-e...Q5fAccessories
You can try those but Ive never had luck. Other also havent had luck. I have 100% with resistors. They make PnP resistor kits of you can buy you own male and female 9007 (or whatever bulb base your truck is) and make you own for less.

Originally Posted by JonnyBlaze420 View Post
Also, Weed, you said the hid kit had to hook up to your battery for power? I thought these were p&p? That they just hook into your headlight harness on each side (passenger and driver) and the hid bulbs...
With a relayed kit, there are a few connections. Main power comes from the battery to the relay contacts which power the ballast. This keeps the main power draw OFF your OEM wiring and PDC fuses. Then there are the 2 connectors from the HID harness that plug into you ballasts and bulbs. There are two grounds which one is by each ballast and usually one connection that goes to your drivers side OEM headlight plug.

Hope that helps
 
  #48  
Old 01-25-2011, 05:18 PM
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Thanks, Weed. Is there a difference in the bi-xenon relay harness and the xenon relay harness? I ordered the bi-xenon kit for the headlights.
 
  #49  
Old 01-26-2011, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by JonnyBlaze420 View Post
Thanks, Weed. Is there a difference in the bi-xenon relay harness and the xenon relay harness? I ordered the bi-xenon kit for the headlights.
Go back up and read post #123

Originally Posted by holydiver89 View Post
So I don't know if this is related or not but 2 days after I installed my HID fogs and headlights my engine light came on, i scanned it and said there was no code so i cleared codes anyways and it went away, 2 days later i went to my buddies and drifted a corner then the engine light came on with the red electrical lightning bolt dash light and my truck stalled, started it up like 5 times and it died right away unless i reved it up so i had to neutral bomb it from 1k rpm to get back onto the road then put it in park and the rpm's kept jumping from 300 to 800 rpm, came back 30 min later after putting a radiator in my buddies moms car and started it up, engine light was still on but it ran fine, then i went baja around in some snow and the light magically went off, scanned for codes again today and it said something about P2110 Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM, so i cleared codes and unplugged the TPS on the throttle body and checked codes again, it gave 4 similar codes but not the exact P2110, could the HID's have caused this? P.S. I just put new plugs and wires in last fall.
No, HIDs will not cause your engine to stall. You have other issues and you drifting around corners in a 6k# truck and baja-ing isnt helping. The the red lightning bolt comes on you better pay attention or else you are about to find it a very costly issue to resolve.
 
  #50  
Old 01-27-2011, 12:33 AM
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Has anyone had a problem with a random flicker on their Hids? On my '08 I got a kit called Apex Cone, it's a hi/low kit. it works fine no warning lights or strobing. while i drive or just sitting still i get just a single flicker. i installed the gold looking resistors from ebay (Thanks Weed) but still get the same flicker randomly. I'm thinking that a connection somewhere isn't good but when i installed the kit i used electrical tape on all the connectors just for extra security. I have read all the post on this thread before i wrote this posting but haven't seen anything about this kind of a issue. Any help or thoughts would be great, thanks in advance.
 

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