First off - thanks, amazing amount of information, almost too much.

I've read 55+ pages over three nights, please don't refer me to page 1 and 2 :-)

Conditions: 55W Retro Solutions low beam and fog kits - relay harness for both and cap for the low beam setup. 2013 Ram 1500

Worked after checking and resetting some grounds but started to experience flicker with fogs - found some water in the connections so I cleaned, de-electric grease and taped them up - seems ok now.

Low beams were fine but got a "lamp out" light

Retro said to replace cap with two resistors - that's where the problems started. Removed the cap and replaced with resistors on both sides - no low beams.

Reset back to cap and got drivers side working but passenger side would not light up - running out of time so afte swapping some parts I just reset to stock - I have to drive at 5 am so it's important to have lights :-)

Real question is do I need caps or resistors - if I read all of the postings, I think I actually need caps and the key is putting a cap on the other side as well??? Am I completely off?

I'm ready to just plug this setup (less the fogs) and replace with the GTR plug and play Gen 3 setup and just be done.

Appreciate your insight and thanks for all the help you give in this area. Having read a lot of posts, you have a lot of patience.

 

So Iinstalled my hid head lights on sat. No problems they work good. Yesterday I was installing my fog. For some odd reason the head lights would just flash really fast on then off randomly? Not sure why? The hood was up but lights off doors shut. Any thoughts ? Thanks again!

 

Damn amazing job Weedahoe, answering questions in 567 posts!!!!! I don't think I have ever seen a person so helpful and patient!!

I have a 2010 Dodge Ram that I have retroed with quad projectors (Morimoto V5) And I will be hooking one set of hid projectors(lows) to a relay (Trigger from low beam wire) with the 2 resistors and the other set will be hooked to a switch in the cab. I will be powering all 4 shields with 1 relay and I am assuming that I will need the 2 resistors on the high beam wire since there are no bulbs present, correct?

I guess my main questions are, Does all the information from the first post still apply to a 2010 dodge ram 1500? (It is a dual not quad, 2 filament bulb) Just thought I would ask since the first post is pretty old.

And 2. Since the high beam wire will trigger a relay for the 4 shields, not a relay for hid ballasts and bulbs, I should still use the 2 resistors on the high to eliminate bulb out issues?

Any problem with your instructions and this being a 2 filament single bulb (2008 bulb) I know all about the diode thing to keep the lows on when I turn on highs. lol



Thanks man, Your help is so much appreciated as this topic has sooooo many people on allot of sites giving out the WRONG info.

 

Thanks. Im going to send you a PM for something even more helpful

 

Thanks man! I replied.

 

Im on HID planet also although not often. Just not enough time to be everywhere

One retro I did with quad projectors on my 04, I had two bixenon projectors for low/high and another set of xenon projectors for high. So in low I had two bulbs burning and at high I had four beams. Obviously there were 4 ballasts. The harness I was using was a standard bixenon harness with modifications.

Basically, the harness provided power to the low beam bixenon projectors and through the two pin connector on the harness would supply power to the bixenon shield. I tapped (12v) off that 2 pin connector to use as a trigger to a standard SPDT 12v relay that took power directly from the battery and powered the other two high beam ballasts which in turn would burn the xenon projectors

Now IDK if that helps you out any or gives you any ideas but let me give a stab at what you have.

Load resistors will be needed. There is no way around that as the Ram PCM monitors the headlights circuits for (filament) bulbs. You can likely find PnP load resistor harness's on ebay. IDK what connector type you have but on my truck they are 9007 so I would go to ebay and type in "9007 load resistors" and then filter by price. You can try that and connect them to the headlight harness on the truck and then on the other end the HID harness will connect. This keeps you from cutting your OEM wiring. Load resistors will get hot so be mindful of where you put them or whats close to them.

A standard HID harness will normally only connect to the drivers side OEM headlight plug but the harness will power both L&R ballasts. So if you plug in a load resistor harness on the pass side, nothing will connect to the other end of it. Just zip tie it up out of the way

On my street bike I did a retrofit (H4) and because I did not use a harness, I connected my low beam wire with a diode (to prevent voltage backfeed into the high beam circuit) to the ballast as it normally would be. On my high beam I took the high beam wire and used it to power my shield and xB halo ring but with another diode as to not feed voltage back into the low beam circuit but also to keep the ballast on so no flicker when changing from low to high.

Here is a crude diagram I made while thinking it over in my head before doing it

http://sdrv.ms/Z8pnLZ

 

Oh man, I am sooo glad to finally get to talk to someone that knows exactly what I am trying to do here! I have been trying to gather this info for months! What you did with the bike is what I am doing with the low beam projectors. Since the lows shut off when I hit the highs, I am installing a diode from the low to high (To "share") the high beam power to the lows. And added a diode on the low wire, before the other diode, to keep from backfeeding the low wire.

So, how bout we break it down to each component, to simplify.....

Let's start at the very beginning. I think I have it all figured out, and if I could get feedback from you, that would be great!

My factory plug is a 9008 (It is a positive switch) and has 3 wires (I guess, from what I have seen, It is very similar to your 9007) 1 is positive high beam wire, 1 is positive low beam, and the center wire is ground. (Pretty simple so far) I will put the 2 resistors on the factory drivers side plug before the relay and also 2 resistors on the passenger side empty plug.

So resistors are all taken care of. (I have those on the way)
Next I have a diode connecting the high to low wire (Also before the relay, but after the resistors) and a diode before that on the low beam wire to stop backfeed to the factory switch.

Now to simplify, let me just say that since the other 2 projectors are on their own switch in the cab, with their own relay, we can just ignore these for now because they need nothing else to operate.

So from the factory plug I have the resistor first, then diodes, and the low beam factory plug wire will trigger a relay to turn on the first set of projectors (Lows) Then the high beam wire, I will have the resistor, then diode, then that will trigger a relay for all 4 shields.

Now most of the time, I will not even use the other 2 projectors (Which is why I have them on a totally separate switch under the dash, Just for out in the country when I need the extra light) But I am wiring this harness so that I can have 1 set of projectors on, with shield up or shield down (low or high mode), or have all 4 on, in low beam mode, or all 4 on in high mode with all shields down.

So, the resistors will keep bulb out and stop flicker by tricking computer into thinking the bulbs are there, the diodes will keep the low projectors on when I hit the highs, which at the same time will drop all 4 shields. (Do you think it would be ok to have 4 shields on 1 relay)?


I am going to work on drawing a diagram that I can show ya, if that is ok.

Hope I havent scared you off yet, I am just excited to finally find someone that knows about these dodges! Is it ok to continue this discussion in this thread or should we move it? In my opinion it is very valuable info for these trucks. Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.

 

Hello,
I am new to the site and ive been reading for a couple days now and im trying to find a kit that works great for my truck.The driver side seems to randomly flicker and seem like its gonna go out while passenger side seems to be fine. [2005 dodge ram 1500 SLT quad cab.]The kit i bought seems to not be that great. These are the links to the kit and the resistors i bought. I hope someone has some advice so i can get my lights properly working. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HID-Xenon-Fuse-Resistor-Kit-Relay-Wire-Harness-Anti-Flicker-9004-HB1-9007-HB5-/321085235478?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item4ac22be116&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pc-9007-HB5-Bulb-6000K-Xenon-HID-Conversion-Kit-Head-Light-Lamp-High-Low-Beam-1-/390563962083?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item5aef6d1ce3&vxp=mtr.

 

You have the right idea. Everything you really need to know is on the first page. Everything else will be problems and troubleshooting.

 

The kit when i first installed it, i didnt realize i needed resistors and i ran them for about a day and it was bad. They tend to flicker about every 15-20 mins it seems of constant running. Could it have done anything to the ballist or bulb to make it act like it is? The kit is still under warranty and I was thinking of replacing it with a better one. Any suggestions or idea? Thanks