If the lights only flicker or go off once and then stay on, try adding a plug and play capacitor to each side, if flickering occurs when you hit a bump or something and BOTH headlights flicker, check the HID harness plug that plugs into your OEM plug, I had that problem this weekend so i jiggled that connection and my lights would go out so i pulled the plugs apart and pinched the female ends together a bit more so the male end fit tighter, all works fine now.

 

First of all, swap bulbs from left to right and see if the issue follows the bulbs to the other side or stays at the same ballast. You could have a bulb with a leak in it if it is changing colors

When you say the power wire gets hot, is this the power wire on the harness for the HIDs? To test the bulbs and ballast simply connect ONE bulb and ballast directly to ground and power at the battery directly (no harness). This will test ONLY that ballast and bulb but could tell you where your issue is at.

As for the radio, it is common for the HID ballast to emit EMI/EFI and give interference with radio stations. I never have this issue because I never listen to the radio.

You dont have something right. Ive never had a set I couldnt solve with resistors. Is it one side doing it or both? As said above, take one bulb and ballast and connect directly to the battery and test it that way to see what you get.

Keep in mind those are made to turn off the light on the dash letting you know you have a bulb out. Some people have luck with them and some do not.

 

the wire that gets hot is the positive wire from the battery going to the relay, the wire thats fused that suppliers power to both lights.

if the bulb leaks it wouldn't come back on blue right? it goes whitish when it's warmed up i guess. i came out this morning and they were perfectly blue (8000k). i turned them on in front of a coworker and he agrees it definitely turns white before it flickers and goes out after about one minute. i wasn't even moving when i did this, he was standing in front of the truck. its only the driver side bulb that does this so i will switch bulbs.

have you heard any success with those chokes to fix the interference? do you think if i get a different kit it would help? odds are i have a bad bulb or ballast so if i do send these back im not going to exchange them, ill just get a different kit from a different supplier. what kits have you had good luck with? and has anyone experienced any problems with the hid kits from ebay, from seller hid_xenonwarehouse?

 

If the positive wire to the relay is getting very hot then check those connections and grounds. Bad or poor connections will cause heat build up.

After swapping those bulbs, let us know what happens.

Again, ive never used the chokes because I dont use the radio. All my music in stored on my HDD inside my AVIC head unit.

 

anyone know what would make the drivers side headlight go out after about 5 minutes of idle? Comes right back on once you shut lights off then back on, fog lights do the same thing sometimes, use to be just the pass. side fog but it seems to be more the drivers side now, they go out at random times, i have all 4 resistors in and all connections are good, tried adding a capacitor on the drivers side to see if it would help but that headlight still went out, after you turn the lights off then back on about 3 times they stay on though it's weird.

 

If you swap the drivers side ballast with the pass side, does it then do it on the passengers side or still on the drivers?

 

For those also interested, when buying kits off ebay, look for those Canbus HID kits.

 

I had the same issue with mine. I had installed them with the relay harness provided from the manufacturer.. So I eliminated all plug and play connections. Meaning I hardwired everything in with solder, tape, and heatshrink. And I used separate relays for each side. Ran ground directly to the chassis and verified with multimeter no voltage drops at the ballast due to poor grounding. Problem still occured.

So I tried the capacitor method.. Doesn't work. Capacitors will cause the lights to shut on and off at random intervals from 5 seconds-2 minutes. You can hear the relay close for a few seconds and the lights go out totally. The come back on. Not a flicker literally is as if you turned the switch on and off. I tried so many different values of capacitance still the same issue. anywhere between 470uf-8000uf still same problem.

So I then tried one of the canceller kits.. that failed.. same issue as with the capacitors. I called around to a few places seems that the capacitor just messes with the computer or something. To be quite honest I've never seen anything like it and don't have a hard theory on it. And yes the caps were put in the right direction and they were not popping or blowing out.

So I tried the resistors and scrapped that because they get too hot and that isn't a viable solution to me. Also I'm betting in a few years all those resistors will start taking a **** because I've talked with a few manufacturers of them and they say that the resistors many people are using are not made for continuous use. They are meant for LED turn signals or something where they don't see a continuous load. So longevity wise seems like an issue to me.

Also I had the dealer verify for me the low beam headlights were not throwing a code into the computer for high resistance/open circuit. All I had wired in were the relays for my HID's and no code was being thrown. And they were checking the truck with a starscan tool. So for the sake of it I cut a relay out of the factory harness and then rechecked and sure enough it threw the code.. But as long as the relay was on there it didn't throw a code. And my kit had halogen high beams so obviously no code for the high beams.

I was pretty sure if you get the flickering like that it's just the kit you have is defective. I scrapped my kits and rocked stock halogens for awhile. Right now I have two kits from HIDextra in the mail and I will see what happens.

 

Thanks for the help Holydiver, weedahoe, and ben. I'm going to check out the main connector first, since its both lights at the same time. how often have people had problems with the harness relay going bad? it's a hi/lo kit with a little black box on the harness with heat exchanger fins on it, not a standard automotive relay. I'll take a pic and post it up when i get a chance.

Here's a link of the kit
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Ap...Raptor-HID-Kit

 

Go back and look at post 51 for the bi-xenon relay that is used and see is thats the one you are talking about.

I have replaced both a relay and harness 2x but that was mainly because moisture and rain i think got in the rubber boot under the relay and it rusted the pins out. The second relay and harness I took two freezer zip lock bags and double sealed the relay, siliconed it and zip tied it shut tight. Later i found humidity and condensation got in the bags and again, rusted out the pins in the harness. I have since moved it and tucked it in the bumper and havent had issues.