Ok I will order those and hopefully it fixes the the problem. Thanks again for the help

 

by having the light plug into the passenger mine burnt out last night but it being plugged in act as if its a terminator resistor all on its own by sending its voltage from the passengers light into the TIPM gets the proper data it needs that, theirs absolutely no need to by any lights so all in all im not having to buy anything lights again nor capcitors or resistors again acts like a terminator resistor all on its own.

 

You're stubborn. I just recently warned you about trying a bulb plugged in and you have already had it blown. You also need to go back to the first page and read post 3 to understand why you need resistors in place. They are there to mimic the load a bulb and its filament inside it place on the circuit. If you keep going down the road you are traveling, I am willing to bet we will see more posts from you soon wanting to know why you are having headlight issues caused from TIPM damage.

 

Not trying to sound rude or cruel, but there is a reason all of that information is on the first page it works how it works for a reason and no other reason. You can be a guinea pig and try other things all you want but please do not advise others to follow down your path. A blown bulb provides no resistance on the headlight circuit

 

Just a few days ago i installed a hid kit for the headlights and fog lights on a 2008 Dodge Ram H13, 9008 hi and low beam bi -exnon bulbs it had a harness that came w/ the headlight kit and its not a relay harness, just hooks up to the lights and ballast each having its own ground that i connected and ran straight to the battery and the hot has only an inline fuse. also leaving the passenger side light bulb plug not connected.First when i installed them never flickered, while key is off or on they would turn off a few seconds and come back on every few minutes or so because of a voltage spike. i looked at the schematics on the PCM/TIPM. I took a bulb and plugged it into the passenger side placed it into the frame hidden so tonight i noticed it went out but the dealer ship told me that it sends data back from the light to the pcm and now it does not flicker/strobe or turn off and back on every few minutes so, everything works great have not had any issues or wasted any of my money on items that turn out to use more voltage in the long run and no need to use any heavy duty relay harness.

 

the bulb went out being next to the frame but it being plugged in release the data to the pcm and forth to monitor that all it does thru factory to begin with

 

All the info has been provided for you to do it correctly. You do yours however you want. If you think a blown bulb with no intact filament still provides info back to the PCM, good for you. Use a meter to test for continuity on it and tell me if if still works out.

Using high energy start up ballasts on 18ga wire is not smart nor advised. But again, you do yours however you want.

 

what the purpose of a can bus system does to allow when you have no voltage and indicates a light out icon on the dash

 

If you want the answer to that then go read the 3rd post on the 1sr page please. Everything is explained there

 

having the bulb in on passenger side only acts as a weather cap for a can bus system.