It looks as if you have an open differential in the pics, correct? One wheel peel, peg leg, etc/

 

it's lsd. never got a good shot of the clutches i guess.

 

Oh, ok. All I saw was a pin and spider gear

 

Areinike noise was in the middle 40's and louder on decel but we've only drove it around 2 miles in between adjustments. Noise always there...its' not loud but there.

The shop has had truck for 5 days and has changed pinion depth and backlash (from 7 to 12) but didn't really changed the carrier bearing preload. I'm not sure if they have it torque to 75lbs to be honest. They didn't put a torque wrench on them and were just adjusting with a punch. I insisted they torque them down and when i said 150lb they freaked out.

I getting frustrated because I went around and interviewed trans/axle shops in town. I'm not exaggerating! One shop told me it's not a hard job...i've done rear ends for 29yrs and i don't use a dial or torque wrench.

But anyway...I hope motive isn't putting out bad gears. Well not bad but I starting to question their run-in process because on all the forums with complaints about motive the speed range is the same. My truck is the family "mini-van", motocross team truck, baseball/football van, and family/friend mover/tower. Oh yeah and it's the work truck too.

No whine with my cheese thank you!

 

I can see where they would adjust the side adjusters to get to the right carrier preload if that's what they're doing. You would measure carrier preload by measuring total rotational torque with carrier in from the pinion nut, no seal. I've read 35-40 in/lbs. There's no way you'll get to that with 75 ft./lbs. of side adjuster torque. On other forums and particularly, Randy's Ring and Pinion has an article on setting carrier preload on these rears and they say 150 MINIMUM. I would sure hope they are at least torquing to 75 .. your carrier will be moving back and forth as the housing flexes and cause all sorts or weird contact under and off load. Your ring gear is probably moving too close the pinion during decel, causing pinion tooth to run off the ring gear. when you accel, the ring gear moves away from pinion and is probably contacting the ring gear teeth in the right spot. when you decel, the ring gear will want to move to the right and pinion towards the ring gear. During accel, the ring gear will want to move to the left, and pinion away from ring gear. If you don't have the adjustments tight enough to keep them from moving or shifting, you're going to get noise.

 

That's not hard to believe. You do that many gears and start of measuring and torquing, eventually you'll get the feel for it and be able to just slap them together. I don't think I'll ever get to that point, but I can see how that's possible and even common place for old timers.

Also, how are they adjusting with a punch?! Are they just punching the threads to rotate them?! If the shop doesn't have a backlash adjuster tool, they need to stay out of your rear. There is NO WAY the would be able to torque it enough to what you need. On top of that, are they adjusting the adjusters and banging back in your carrier? That's how to you GM's and Fords with shims - not here!

Regardless of what rear axle, dodge, chevy, ford, dana .. the ultimate goal is to "spread" the housing for the carrier to sit in there nice and tight so it doesn't move. Different procedures for different rears, but that's the main goal.

 

AND after every backlash adjustment, the entire assembly needs to rotate 5 or so times to seat the bearings. Trust me, I got snagged on that. The backlash measurements will change and you may end up with a cocked bearing - not good.

 

Everything you just said is what i told them yesterday....no way you are getting the right amount of torque on side adjusters without torque wrench. No way! I also told them they have to seat bearings with every adjustment on side adjusters.

I told them open it back up and loosen bearing caps then:

1. start with 10ft lbs have torque on side adjusters with BL at .003-.004
2. torque bearing caps
3. torque right adjuster to 150 stopping at least 4 times to seat bearings
4. check BL should be close to .008 if not adjust
5. when right close to 150 and BL close to .008 torque left to 150

Did i miss anything? Of course this is assuming pinion depth and preload are correct. The wear pattern looked correct i just think the carrier is moving just as you described.

 

don't do 2 until last.
keep bearing caps hand tight (or just a nice snug with the wrench is fine. The looser it is, the easier it'll move and keeps races straight. but tight enough to firmly secure the carrier.

 

do they have a spreader? could it be possible that they're spreading the housing, adjusting the side adjusters for bl and tightness.