So far I've added two LED floor lights, and replaced my cluster, overhead map lights, dome light and climate controls with LED bulbs.

ONE of the lights in my climate controls flickers on and off and ONE light (I think) randomly goes on and off in my cluster. My map lights also don't work individually with the truck off, they just come on dim.

When the truck is running I can use the map lights.

Long story short, Is there a singular place I can put a large resistor to correct these problems, or am I going to have to put resistors in multiple locations? if so does anyone know those locations?

Since the floor lights I added are tied into the dome lights I think I could put a resistor across those lines to solve my map light issues, but what about the cluster and climate controls?

 

i don't know if a resister would even solve your problem. have you tried moving some of the led lights around to see if the problem moves with the bulb?

 

That sounds like a flakey connection. Resistors are used to prevent a "Lamp Out" indicator due to the reduced load of the LED vs. incandescent.

 

I'm almost certain the map lights are a result of not having a resistor.

The cluster and climate controls though could be a flakey connection. I contacted superbrightleds like 3 weeks ago to get a replacement for the faulty climate control bulb but they seem to have forgotten about me.

 

i think you may just need to double check things. i don't see why a resister should make the led map light work if the light works with the truck on. maybe you might have to test things by sticking the old lights back in. i know when i have been installing led's in my trucks i usually test the lights before i started re-assembling things.

 

When the ignition is off there is 3.3v on the system, at least from what I measured. So with regular bulbs there is continuity with no power going to it. Since LEDs don't have continuity when they are off there is infinite resistance.

Adding a resistor, if I understand correctly, will allow the same continuity/resistance as the original bulbs thus allowing the lights to work as normal.

why it works with the engine on, I really don't know....but like I posted in my other thread showing off the lights, I'm still working out the bugs and making adjustments.

 

i don't understand how you have 3.3V at the light and not a full 12v. from the diagram i am looking at you should have a full 12v at the light socket. i think the only difference is where they get there ground connection from

 

I checked across RD/YL and BR. There was a reading of 3.3v when the truck was off, before connecting the floor lights, and after having added the LED dome/map lights.

It was 12.3V when the door was open, or the lights were turned on.

Again I could be mistaken, but that 3.3V looks to me like it would be a signal voltage to monitor the system.

If the system reads 3.3V then all is well and there are no open circuits. If the system read 0V this would indicate a problem and an open circuit somewhere, depending on what part of the system is sitting at 0V.

A regular bulb would keep this continuity, but adding in a diode would break this continuity.

I could be way off, I don't fully understand how the PCI BUS system on the truck works, and haven't found the corresponding information in the service manual yet.

 

Sounds like a loose or weak connection to me also. When I changed all my bulbs on my street bike to LED, all would work except the high beam. Sometimes it would and sometime it would not. I took it back out, made sure it was seated in the socket good and I havent had any more issues

 

No offense, and certainly of no help, but I would hate to be the next owner of your truck!!