Thanks for the feed back. IF i do decide on this. I would go around the block to back country road. Remove the shaft there on the side of road and slowly drive straight. See what happens? Then reinstall the shaft. I don't think its the tires. I have 2 sets. Vibration on both sets but definitely worse on the winter tires.
Once the roads dry up (snow melt) I might give it a try. I don't know???
By doing this I was hoping to eliminate the rear end and drive shaft as possible sources?

 

As far as I know, my 1500 Mega Cab does have a live axle. And it would bind without the rear wheels being driven. But, whatever, do what you want.

 

When I put a slip yoke eliminator on my wrangler I drove it for a week to work and back in 4wd while waiting for a custom rear shaft to be built. 22 miles each direction and zero binding or other issues, drove it 70mph that way as well.

 

There is no reason that the front should bind if it is not locked to the back. The two front wheels should still be able to turn independently of each other due to how the differential works (if it's the right type). We aren't locking the front wheels to the front wheels.

If your 1500 megacab "would bind without the rear wheels being driven" then how are you able to drive the truck?? by your own admission your saying that the front will bind up no matter what, and we all have live axles ...... go look up what a live axle is.

I think you should read up on 4x4 systems and how they work.

 

I will do that, you may be right.

 

he is right... you can totally drive without the rear hooked up... it risks your transfercase clutch packs and the front axles but it is possible...

 

Is the vibration in the seat or more in the steering wheel. Sounds like the it could possibly be the front hub bearings if in the steering wheel.

 

I know THAT, the question was would the front still bind on sharp turns, and also, is it smart to drive at 40mph, plus is there going to be consequences to the drivetrain. And I did misunderstand the definition of a live axle. My understanding is that the differential supplied equal power to both wheels. In my case, with a solid front axle, I thought that was what I had. If I hammer it in snow, it takes off like a bat out of hell with both front wheels spinning, and one rear wheel spinning. Now if both fronts spin at the same speed, wouldn't that make the front a "locking" axle? If it does, when I turn, the inside tire would try to jump, because it is turning at a lesser rate than the outside. I don't know how most dodges IFS's operate, but I know my solid axle does lock up.

 

It's mainly in the steering wheel but I can also feel it in the gas pedal. I had the passenger side half shaft out and the pass side bearing turns smooth. The driver side with brake rotor removed turns smooth as well. I am confident the hubs are not the cause. I just put new hubs and CV axles in last year.
I think I am going to get it on stands and take another look.
Anybody ever use Electronic Vibration Analyzer? (EVA)

 

take the rear wheels off set it on jack stands remove front shaft just to be safe and run her up to about 50 mph it will vibrate enough to let someone watching tell ya where it is coming from.. I am betting it is wheel out of balance or tire with bad belt. If the drive shaft is out of balance vibrating, it will tear ujoints out really fast..
Try greasing the ujoint if possible even if you have to pull the shaft and fill a cup on the ujoint with grease and smash the grease in that way.. My boys 2500 will vibrate if the rear ujoint gets dry and if he does not get it greased ASAP he ends up replacing another ujoint. Just a few things to think about..