Unfortunately neither one of those sets out up on Miller Tools site but it does take matter because neither have the race cup P/N C-4308 with is the rear pinion race driver.

I haven't forgotten about the freezer trick. We do the same for ball joints too

 

Btw Weed bud...... Are we all going to be treated to one of your famous "how to's" at the end of this?
Al.

 

Unfortunately not this time

this is what i have been using though

 

Good video Weed.
It all looks so easy.
Wish I had all those facilities in my garage to do this?
Vehicle lifts really make a difference don't they.
Good luck on your repairs and install bud.
Keep posting tips n' tricks so we can all learn about these tricky Dodge rears.
Al.

 

Well I have had a lot of other work to do so Im just getting back to this.

Now I could have bought the rear pinion race driver and handle to install the race but no one in town or online had one being it is a 3.5" race. I could have ordered one from MillerTools at the tune of about 50-60 bucks

But being it SHOULD be a one time use tool for me, I didnt want to spend that.

So I took a piece of 1/4" flat bar I had in the shop and cut a small piece to fit inside the race. I used my grinder to round the corned to get a better fit and then I welded it in place.

NOW let me say I have a nice gas welder but seems the bottle was empty so I had to get my trusty flux core welder out. NEVER pretty welds but it does good welds. I welded a 12" stick of threaded rod on the flat bar as a handle and popped the new race in. Cost me nothing because I had all the material in the shop but even if I didnt, I prices the rod and flat bat at Lowes and it would have been close to $20. Not bad. Better than 50-60

 

Nice make shift, hopefully you didnt marr up the race on the edge... 3 o'clock?? Not that you cant dremel it down just sayin..

Whats the status update on this project? Anything new? Or has it been too cold lately? The high here for today was 6*F, gonna be -8* w/ -30* windchill tonight. I was outside most of the day today too

 

These races are pretty hard metal. It went in fine though. It did get go in cockeyed 2 or 3 times and I had to tap it out and line it back up. Once it went straight, it went fine.

As for that mark in the housing, I didnt do it. I seen it and assume it was from that stupid idiot mechanic before me

I havent done much but I did manage to use a dremel and a sanding drum and opened up the old pinion bearings just enough to slip onto the pinion shaft today. I washed the oil off the gear sets so I can get ready to install everything and check my tooth pattern.

 

Just a tip weed.
When I was exploring getting my gears done, the installer "lapped" the faces of the ring gears.
He said that when the ring gear bolts up, the faces will be both clean and free from burrs and edges plus importantly, parallel.
He put some abrasive paper down on a metal work bench and worked the ring gear around the table to sand down high spots and imperfections etc.
Dunno if this is required or helps personally but, the idea behind it is sound.
It certainly makes sure the faces on the gears are smooth and flat.
Al.

 

That makes perfect sense. That guy in that video I linked above somewhere kinda mentioned something to the same effect. My ring gear is already mounted so I'm not worried about it. Thanks though

 

Went and bought a new impact gun. I needed a bigger one anyway.

Here is the latest concern

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhgCG...ature=youtu.be