I have a 2006 1500 5.7L 4x4 and there is what sounds like bearing grinding noise coming from the rear end. I'm 99.9% sure it's an axle bearing, I've had two different shops look at it for a diagnosis and estimate, one told me it was the parking brakes (I've definitely ruled this out) and another said it was something in the rear diff rather than an axle bearing. I'm going to crack it open myself and deal with it, but before I start on it I want to have new bearings ready to go. I need to identify the rear diff to figure out what I bearings I need. It is a SLT quad cab with a 6ft bed, and I've pulled up the build sheet from Dodge to start with, here are some of the items that may be pertinent to identifying what I need:

Under standard equipment:
- Corporate 9.25 LD Rear Axle

Under optional equipment:
- 3.92 Rear Axle Ratio
- Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle

It also has a tow package, although not sure that matters for this or not. So, the build sheet had good info but I'd like to know if there's a way to confirm that by inspecting the diff itself without cracking it open. I'll attach pictures here as soon as I can get them.

As a secondary question, I don't think the noise is coming from the pinion bearing, but the truck has 146k miles on it, so if I'm digging into the diff anyway, I'm thinking about doing the pinion bearings and seal as well. Any opinions on that? I've seen some good videos that walk through replacing the pinion bearings but all of them seem to skip over how to torque down the pinion nut. I know that it should have a specific amount of torque applied to turn freely, but there is also a specification that says the pinion nut should be torqued to something crazy like 210ft lbs, so I'm not sure how to get it to 210 ft lbs if the pinion rotational torque spec is hit before it gets to that point. I came across this post that does explain it, so do I just start with torquing to 210 ft lbs and then check the rotational drag? I've read elsewhere that some guys torqued to that and damaged the bearings or crush sleeve, or had too much drag.

Thank you!

 

Have a look at the axle, should be able to visually verify it's a 9.25.

If you are going to be in there anyway....... do the pinion bearings as well. Might consider rebuilding the posi too..... (see if the clips have broken at least..)

I torque the pinion nut slowly, check rotational torque, and tighten some more if need be. It takes a LOT of force to crush the crush sleeve..... but, go easy, as if you go to tight, the crush sleeve needs to be replaced, and you start all over again. Be sure and use the rotational torque spec for USED gears as well. (lower numbers.)

 

HeyYou, thanks for the blazing fast reply and the visual identification guide. I attached a couple pics, sure enough it's confirmed to be a 9.25. And thank you for the input on how to deal with the pinion nut, so it sounds like the rotational torque spec is the number to focus on, and if for some reason I hit that before 210 ft lbs on the nut then I stop. That really clears it up, I think I have everything I need to get going on this. I'll post an update on what the issue was after I'm done, along with some video of what the rear end sounds like now.

 

Ok, coming back to this, I am in the process of rebuilding the whole rear end. I am near the end of the project but at the moment I'm stuck on trying to get new thrust washers behind the spider gears. I bolted down each of the side gears to compress the clutches, the spider gears are freed up a bit with this. The old washers were visibly worn down quite a bit, compared to the new ones which have a lip on the inside diameter. The problem is the new washers are not able to fit behind the gears due to the lip. If the original washers had this lip they must have long since worn away. For reference, the new washers look like this, you can kind of see the inner diameter has a stamped lip on it. My question is, in order to make the new washers fit is it reasonable to grind off the lip on the inner diameter of the washer? They are still thicker and larger overall than the old ones, and the pin will be holding the gears and washers in place.

 

there is no relief for the lip to slide into?

 

There is a chamfer on the inside diameter of the spider gears but the washers don't quite match up to that. I attached some pictures of the gear, new washer, and old washer. The old washer is a slightly smaller diameter and doesn't have a lip, but I assumed it was because the old washers were worn down. But now I'm wondering if the original washers didn't have a lip to begin with. Even when compressing the side gears, I can't get enough clearance for the washer to slide in behind the gear, it hangs up on the lip, and I can't turn the spider gears in with the washers in place, they just don't sit flush enough to fit.

The washer seems like it should match up to the chamfer on the gear

This is one of the new washers

Sitting on the gear, you can see the new washer doesn't quite fit in the chamfer

New washer sitting on the gear

An old washer, no lip, assumed it wore off but maybe not?

old washer on top of a new washer, see the difference in diameter, due to wear?

 

Try the old ones.

 

I don't think that's because of wear, I think someone gave you the wrong parts.

 

I'd get Dana brand ones.

 

Yeah, it does look more like the new washers are wrong, I'll see if I can find some others. If I can't get a hold of any others soon enough, would it be a big deal to just use the old washers? I'd hate to go through all this effort and have some old parts in there, but if it's a valid option I may have to.

Edit: @fj5gtx, you're right, I found these Dana washers and they appear to be what I need.