I got a hold of an older model FlashPaq a couple of weeks ago, and Superchips was kind enough to not only unlock it for free but also give me access to the user shift point and torque management settings, so I have a fully functional tuner.....albeit I don't really like the canned options for tunes so much.

so I'd like to play around with my shift points, but before I do I'd like to learn a bit about them before I mess something up.
I noticed that when I had a tune installed, and had the up shift points set to stock, and the downshift points set to super chips it would downshift really hard, so I changed that asap lol.

so what I'm trying to understand basically is what the different shift points are and how they work together because there are options like shift 1 up, shift 2 up, shift 2p up etc.

So what is 2P ? and I assume that 2P up means that's the point at which 2P upshifts?

 

Check their site, and see if they have a manual for it available for download. That *should* explain what all the various bells and whistles do.

 

Check here. We did a ton of stuff with shift points in the 3rd gen Dakota section. What I found after trying all kinds of different settings and shift schedules, plain ol tow tune gave me the best shifting and engine performance. The schedules I created were almost exactly like the tow tune after I was done.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...7l-dakota.html

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...tm-tuning.html

And be very careful. You can really screw up; the transmission if you accidentally overlap shift points.

 

The link to the website doesn't work, it just says I don't have access to "/sc.html" on this server.

I don't think my tuner will give me all of the same options for torque management, but I haven't looked too deeply just yet.

I get what you mean about screwing up the transmission. before I had the tuner fully unlocked I had set my upshift points to stock, and left the downshift points as superchips and when it downshifted it slammed into gear or something, like it just downshifted really hard. I immediately pulled over and changed the tune before continuing.

I just finished making an excel sheet of the stock shift points so I can try to understand them, but I just don't understand how all the numbers work together. So how do I make sense of this, why are some of the numbers the same?

Is the % the throttle position %?
Looking at shift 1 up, would I be right in assuming that at 44.70% throttle position it will shift into second gear at 39.82 MPH? And if that's the case then why is it also shifting into second at 50.45MPH for the same throttle %.
And on top of that, why is it shifting at 50.45 MPH at 100% throttle?

I just don't understand how these work together just yet.

 

so is there anywhere I can access the spreadsheet with the graphs that are supposed to be on that website?
I'd really like to read up on it all and play with the spreadsheets but it's not accessible

 

I suppose it might also help if I explained what I want to do which is basically tune my old truck for the best mileage possible. I already drive it pretty light and since I've switched to using 89 octane for the last couple of fill ups I've seen slightly better fuel mileage, but as you can see from my sig image it's still pretty low. my last tank was 11mpg using 89 octane and no tune installed at all.

Where I'm genuinely confused is basically shift points and HOW to drive efficiently. I've noticed that if I install the MileageXS tune it won't shift out of first gear until I reach about 35kph, and around 3000+ RPM, which seems really high to me. Wouldn't the excessive RPM cause more fuel to be burned? Or is it more efficient to get up to speed quickly despite high revving?

This would apply to stock as well, is it better to give it more gas to get started, or is it better to accelerate gently and take longer to get up to speed??

The only baseline I have to go by is how far I get after filling up before the needle moves off the peg. Usually I'm getting about 40km before the needle starts to un-peg, and the best I've seen is 60km with the stock settings and 89 octane.
I realize this isn't a good baseline because there are so many variables, but there's a lot of stop/start traffic in my city, and I swear the universe hates me because if there are 9 stop lights in a row I'll manage to hit every single ****ing red light with just enough time to get up to speed, before I have to stop at the next light.


I'm not expecting miracles, I'm not expecting my truck to be a prius, I would simply like to improve my fuel mileage a bit more to be more in line with what I see of others driving my same year/engine truck (2004 5.7), and I've seen a number of people getting around 12-13mpg which I think I'd be happy with.

 

You get the best gas mileage at the lowest rpm, in the highest gear.... Getting into the higher gears quicker, will give you better economy. Why the "economy" tune wants to hold first gear so long HAS to be a goof on the tuners part. That makes no sense at all.

 

That's my line of thinking too, but there has to be a balance somewhere because I changed the shift points while using the mileage XS tune and it just wasn't working out so well.
I don't remember what I had it set to but I left the 1 UP shift at stock value and lowered the 2UP shift a little bit, but it would shift from 2nd almost immediately into third (I think, I'm going from memory) so I was in a higher gear but there wasn't enough time to build any power so I'd hit third gear and I'd have to give it gas to keep accelerating because the RPMs weren't in the power band. So I think that negated any possible benefits to the mileage XS tune.

Unless I end up finding a job I literally don't think I can afford to test a bunch of changes over a lengthy period of time. I may just end up sticking with the stock tune and running 89

 

My theory on this is..... Set the shift points so the engine is at the very least somewhat into the power band for the motor. If you can find a hp/tq chart for it, that would give you an idea of where you want the engine to be at various speeds.

 

so I guess that guy isn't around any more and neither is his website, so I don't suppose I'll ever end up getting a hold of those spread sheets to play around with myself.
I went back to a stock tune and 89 octane for a while and I'm not seeing the difference so my 11MPG number was due to other circumstances I think.

Just today I re-tuned it with the 87 octane tune and I'll see if that makes any difference because that may have been the tune I was using when I got 11MPG, but I honestly don't remember the order of events....so I'll try the 87 tune for a while with superchips set shiftpoints.