MAP Sensor bolt STUCK - any ideas
#1
MAP Sensor bolt STUCK - any ideas
Hi - I was trying to replace my MAP sensor on my 2004 Ram 1500 4.7L
I cleaned out the torx recess with a wire brush & sprayed the bolt down with liquid wrench. I used a T15 torx bit with a low profile ratchet set and it fit perfectly in the limited space that there is between the bolt head and AC compressor. Needles to say I stripped the T15 torx. head. I am confused as the housing it sits in is molded plastic - I assume it is lined with a metal thread and most have corrosion.
So today I took my dremel and cut a slot for a flat blade screwdriver. It fit well. I used liquid wrench and PB Blaster. I cannot budge this tiny bolt.
The screwdriver is at a slight angle due to the mounting leg of the AC compressor.
Would it be OK to dremel out a little arch in the AC mounting leg so the screwdriver can be more head on? Or do you think I should remove the belt and then remove
the 3 AC mounting bolts and move the compressor a bit. Not sure how much wiggle room I will get with hoses still connected and oil fill tube right next to it.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Kev
I cleaned out the torx recess with a wire brush & sprayed the bolt down with liquid wrench. I used a T15 torx bit with a low profile ratchet set and it fit perfectly in the limited space that there is between the bolt head and AC compressor. Needles to say I stripped the T15 torx. head. I am confused as the housing it sits in is molded plastic - I assume it is lined with a metal thread and most have corrosion.
So today I took my dremel and cut a slot for a flat blade screwdriver. It fit well. I used liquid wrench and PB Blaster. I cannot budge this tiny bolt.
The screwdriver is at a slight angle due to the mounting leg of the AC compressor.
Would it be OK to dremel out a little arch in the AC mounting leg so the screwdriver can be more head on? Or do you think I should remove the belt and then remove
the 3 AC mounting bolts and move the compressor a bit. Not sure how much wiggle room I will get with hoses still connected and oil fill tube right next to it.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Kev
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
The trick I've been using for a couple decades is what I call light tapping. Get yourself a narrow brass drift and just start tapping the head of that bolt. Spraying penetrating oil every so often. Might take a solid15 minutes or so, but it should come out. Takes a pile of patience, but I more often than not have success. It works by vibrating the rusty connection and letting the oil get into the mix.
Last edited by fj5gtx; 05-14-2019 at 09:05 PM.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
#10
Nope. Just tap straight down. The idea is to vibrate the bolt, so, the chems can penetrate to the threads, where they will do the most good. On some, it just doesn't matter, as the shank of the bolt is pretty long, and the chems will never get down to the threads. One of the problems with steel bolts, going into aluminum......