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Front suspension rebuild chronological order needed .
3rd Gen Ram Tech2002-2008 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 2002 through 2008 Rams Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
I know the hammer method works. I've seen mechanics wail on the knuckle with all their might. Something about hitting my truck with a sledge while it's on jack stands though.
How many pickle forks do you have? Some of them are deeper, or wider when looking at them from the side.
A pitman arm puller might work for you here also. Auto parts stores loan them out as part of a "front end kit". You use it similar to a ball joint press. The stud on that OEM tie rod is long and you may have to shorten it to get the puller to fit.
Another option is to cut the hex end off of the tie rod stud, put the nut back on the threads, and pound the stud from the bottom. The nut will prevent the stud end from mushrooming.
From looking at your tie rod, has the stud come out of the base?
Downward blow with the hammer ? On the knuckle closeest to the stud hole ?
Nope, horizontal blow to the side of the part where the stud goes thru. The idea is for the hammer blow to compress the hole a tiny bit, and it prompts the joint to want to jump out. Which it does.
If you can knock your truck off the jackstands with a hammer, you REALLY need better jackstands.
I have broken several of the tools shown above, removing stubborn parts. The hammer method works perfectly, doesn't harm anything, and is a LOT less effort...... Everyone has their own preference though. Do whatever works best for you.
Seriously, Thor? You might take out a fender with that big ole hammer or conk yourself in the noggin and wake up on the garage floor.
Turning a wrench till it pops is super easy, especially if you grease the threads of the tool and spray the joint. Been using mine for a decade.
Only the worthy.
I have broken those crank-me-with-a-wrench fellers on several occasions. They let go with a fair bit of force, and I have the scars to prove it. (of course, I also have the scars from hammer blows that didn't quite work out as planned. )
I have broken those crank-me-with-a-wrench fellers on several occasions. They let go with a fair bit of force, and I have the scars to prove it
Maybe it's the way you use it. Okay, if the joint is really tough to crack, you crank up the tension but not to breaking point, then tap the end of the black tension bolt with a hammer (not like Thor) and that usually does it.
Maybe it's the way you use it. Okay, if the joint is really tough to crack, you crank up the tension but not to breaking point, then tap the end of the black tension bolt with a hammer (not like Thor) and that usually does it.
Yeah, but, just where IS the 'breaking point'? Not like it gives you any warning.
I already have the two hammers though. So, I'll stick with my method. You can do it any way ya like.
Well I've managed to get the outter tie rod separated from the steering knuckle..
I whailed, I cussed it, tried different torture devices, tore the top housing
off and finally turned the ball press loose on it. and managed too pop
the stud out.. in the end i succeeded and that's all that matters.
Laughable yup.