2005 1500 4x4 .
Hello gang.
I need to have these rebuild repair kit into a (first start with and a finish last with order).
following is my list of parts that I need help putting in order.

1. Upper ball joint control arms.

2. Lower ball joints.. just the ball joint not the whole arm. Press in.

3. inner tie rod

4. Outter tie rods.

5. Bellows boots.

6. Sway bar links

7 Sway bar bushings.

Thankyou All.
Now go hug your loved ones.

 

the way I'd do it is to raise the front end off of the ground and support with jack stands.
Do the sway bar work first because the front wheels need to be level with one another. Sway bar links then bushings, the links will keep the sway bar centered for the bushing replacement. Mark the sway bar on either side of each bushing so you stay centered.
Then do one wheel at a time. Start with removing the steering knuckle, then replace tie rods, tie rod boots, and ball joints.
Get the ball joint kit that has 40 pieces, the 10 piece kits are limited.

 

Okay thankou,
I'm glad I asked j would never of thought
Too mark the sway bar it makes total sene.

40 piece ball joint kit ?
I'm renting from Orieleys they have the main kit and
An extra kit for 4x4 . I'm assuming this is what you mean.
not sure what the piece count is on the rentals.

 

You're not pressing your upper so it may not be a problem for you. I replaced the upper ball joints without removing control arms. The Oreilly set had 10 pieces and did not work for my truck. I rented sets from Oreilly's and Advance, the advance set had more pieces and was the one I ended up using. More pieces means more fittings and cups.
I recommend you also rent a couple of ball joint sets.
How are you separating the ball joints?

 

Yup my upper ball joints are all in one. No pressing for them

I'm gonna try pressing lower ball joints in and old out.
Orieleys has both a basic kit and a separate kit for 4x4 I'm gonna rent both of them.
And too separate upper from knuckle. It'll be pickle fork 3lb hammer and some
penetrating fluid.. the hammer kinda scary on the aluminum..

 

The hammer will work, I prefer to tap the fork in tight with a dead blow hammer, then use a breaker bar with a 19mm deep socket as an extender for the pickle fork handle. Slowly work the fork up and down adding pressure. I also like to cut away as much ball joint boot as possible to get good contact. The ball joint stud is not much bigger than the tie rod stud, the rubber around the ball joint is denser though and makes seating the fork a little more challenging.
Be sure you support the knuckle before popping the ball joint.

 

Outter tie rod either frozen sized or pinched
I've turned wheel various angles loosened and retigbtened jam nuts and axle nuts
banged pickle forked breaker barred with pickle fork.. and got nothing..
there's no rust I've lifted the lower control arm a tad release pressure.
Maybe tires need to be installed?
the only fix I'm thinking is heat.
But really hoping its pinched ?
What's the fix fellas ?
No access too air or impact. Pics below.

 

Two big hammers. Hold one against the knuckle where the joint goes thru, SMACK the other side with the other hammer. Two or three good whacks, and it'll pop right out. (I use a pair of 3 pound single-jacks.) You can get them at any place that sells hardware.

 

So I'm confused trying too understand hammer set up ?.
one hammer on top of the knuckle and upwards. With second hammer smack upwards on the underside driving the stud upwards ?

How do I know for certain I have ALL the pressure off the joint itself ?

Maybe there is a picture in demo mode.
I'll do a YT Query..see what I can find.
another of people on yt do
Pen oill , heat and smacking..

 

Nope. Both hammers in a plane parallel to the ground. You aren't hitting the stud itself, you are hitting the part of the knuckle that the stud goes thru.